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Mine is a 205 and the switch works only above 3000'...found that out on my Mt. Washington trip. Good luck finding one, I've had no luck on mine.

It literally takes less than an hour to replace the heater core and burp the cooling system. Suck it up and just change it. I kept milking mine because I felt like it was going to be a long painful repair. It takes longer to install those valves or bypass the core then to just get it over with...

No need, just buy an M1031 ;)

How do you figure? If the goal is highway cruise speed and he owns a non M1009 variant, an SM465 will probably not be a good choice. As a back up truck that is back roads only, maybe the SM465 is the best choice because it came stock making a civilian parts swap pretty cheap. Just trying to get...

I installed a Racor on a boat last year and I was terrible. The filter was installed way too tight, leaked everywhere, and it costs more than all the competition. I love my Stanadyne FM100, both the pre and post heads are easy to change/service/install with zero leaks. Plus the manual primer...

So we may need some more information about what CUCV you have and what you intend to do with it. An M1009's needs will be drastically different than an M1028 dually, not to mention the difference in axle ratios. Do you plan on running larger tires?

Unless you did an axle swap, you don't have a detroit locker. You have a gov lock which is about as reliable as a pair of used flip flops. Sounds like something came undone. I will tell you that the gov lock compared to the full detroit locker is complex in operation and not exactly easy/cheap...

That video is not a 100% true, the unlocking mechanism will only work when a small amount of torque is applied. Go around a turn and throttle up, the clutch will engage...this is the fun part :) I don't think it would be unbearable in a short wheelbase rig such as an M1009. Automatic trucks...

Yikes...I typically only use mine for a few seconds every couple of days.

Being that I already have a Class 4 hitch on the back of my M1031 and really like the idea of winching out of a stuck rather than further into it (the M1031 is a big heavy girl), I decided to go with a multi mount setup. Coming from a more extreme rock crawling style of fourwheeling it is a huge...

I agree that the fuel may just be too thick and additive will help but... A CUCV should have no issues starting well below freezing if everything is functioning correctly. The engine will crank slower due to the batts being cold and the oil thicker but if anything in the starting system is...

Could be a stuck shift valve in the valve body. Inconclusive till you start the diag process. Fluid/filter change is a good start.

Well what is it doing exactly? Did you stall test it? Does it shift through every gear? Early late shifts? Pressure tests on each port during certain conditions? I would not recommend rebuilding if you can't diagnose the problem because at this point it could be anything causing the problem.

If no heat is available, spray down and smack head of bolt with a punch. Sometimes that breaks the corrosion free. K9Vic...how's the Suburban treating you? I'm still searching for one in decent shape to build a clone. Waiting to take delivery :)

Full rebuild and new belt...better safe than sorry. Mighty cold out to be dealing with broken trucks or dead batts.

Lost interest and diverted to other more important projects like a 24v 12000lb. multi mount winch that uses the NATO slave port...post coming soon. I successfully fed the HMMWV tach a signal to get it to work, still figuring out where to get the signal.

Replace everything including steel plates. I do not recommend getting anything to fancy as harsh shifts get old on a DD. Keep it relatively stock unless you are going engine upgrades. Do not skip anything like adjusting clutch/brake engagement either.

Are you positive on this? I could have swore that all straight axle rigs regardless of GVW (excluding those 88-91 IFS rigs) have interchangeable axles with the same spring perch dimensions.