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LOL...fair enough! I put this British made gauge pod on my dash and now the dash is dripping oil on my floorboard. They are nice and the blank face is great for customizing. I would run all the gauges for a diesel swap in a D90 or air locker switches when doing locker installs in those pods...

I've put those gauge pods in Defender rigs, they are nice but more expensive than sourcing one locally. If you go on Jegs, Amazon, or Fleabay, you will find plenty of universal pods between $10 to $40. I dig the spot, I want to add ECT, oil pressure, and a tach on a center pod. Small matching...

I checked directly at the batts, replacing the regulators fixed it.

My alternators both did the same exact thing, not at the same time but same failure one after another. With a voltmeter directly on the batts, it would spike above 14v when the GEN light flickered. It would occur very quickly, under a second total duration.

That camo is awesome!!! I can't see half of that truck ;)

Great indicator is the voltmeter being in the yellow when the GP's are actually working. Something I always look for proper engagement and making sure they do not stay on. My system works fine and I do get solenoid chatter which may or may not be normal.

I looked in a few parts explosions online and didn't see anything. This is a single lip seal on the tcase right? You may be able to pull it and try to get a number off of it. You can also look or measure for dimensions. Just because no one stocks it doesn't mean a seal doesn't exist. Any good...

Even with no assist, my M1031 has been able to start without issue in sub freezing temps. It is cranky, requires two cycles, and certainly does not want to go to work without a significant warm up period. All components need to be functioning in order for this to happen. If you have one week...

I love the turboencabulator...I didn't know that the turboencabulator had a control module network interface connection on a Cuck Vee :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXW0bx_Ooq4

That's wrong... The NSA is watching you!!!

You will hear a distinct rpm change if idling and also the diesel clatter will become less immediately if the cold start circuit kicks off whether you are driving or idling. This is a great sign things are working correctly. I absolutely do not understand how people butcher or do not...

Pretty sure an injection pump has no choke. The visor states to press down half way if a certain temperature range, depress fully if below a certain temperature. This is rocket science. It has been stated and well documented on here and in the TM. I think people are messing this up because the...

Pretty sure my Cuck Vee is clearly placarded..."NO PEDDLING" It keeps street vendors and drug dealers away ;)

May need to scuff or replace the pulleys.

If all your connections check out you may have a bad regulator or other internal piece. I had a very random Gen light flicker after rebuild. I ended up replacing both regulators and the problem never came back. This is assuming everything else is ok...follow Warthog's info first to rule out...

Most brake line is going to be copper nickel alloy, galvanized/aluminized, or epoxy coated...should be good for another 30 years.

Here is the deal with the gov-lok...whenever a difference of axle shaft speed occurs the little centrifugal weight starts to spin. When it reaches a 100rpm difference (if I remembered that correctly) a little pawl locks the side gears together using a set of clutches. The best way to get a...

Air or electric locking diffs cause both shafts to turn at case speed when activated all the time. Detroits are mechanical lockers which have no activation.

I personally like when it just randomly unlocks one tooth while driving in a straight line. Always keeps the driver awake and serves as a reminder to check tire pressures :)

It's just vacuum, take it to auto parts or hardware store. Use anything like copper, steel, etc. as long as the rubber line goes on tight and you don't link it.