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The is also a colorful PAM DA pamphlet 750-31 I don't see it on SS, may be I missed it. PM and I will mail it to you. It is to big for me upload to SS

answers are in TM 9-2320-242-34 which is to big to post here

I wanted an easy place to add fluid with a good vent way above the master cylinder. I wanted to be able to remove or change location of the whole deal easily if desired. I wanted an easy quick disconnect place to attach my pressure bleeder. I want fluid quantity to be in plain sight at all...

The TM 9-2320-272-10 part 2-15 pdf page 2-104 is about the transmission/transfer case when backing the truck.

We need to get the "old-timer" ; "shop foreman at Hercules Engines" to join SS! What a wealth of information He must have. Maybe He knows where the blueprints went.

The elusive TM 9-2815-210-35 I thought I had it in PDF, but now I can't find it!? It is not in with a set of 4,792 manuals, although some would find some in there they would want to have. Here is the link to the 4,792 http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/all.mpl

How come when it is "100 times better" GI, it is always a girl. Very fine job.................. Girls are always better than boys, but cost lots more too.

I made lots of things to go into places never to be seen again and did strive to put my mark on the stuff I made. It means that with everything taken into consideration it was the best that could be done at the time. Most of my stuff was in ships and subs and in the now torn down powerplants...

Kroil, for two daze. no heat. Let the Kroil work................ Then cheater on locked down circular jaw-vise-grips, use real vise-grips. Curved jaw vise grips or locking jaw vise grips even better. people say Kroil is expensive and use other stuff. Kroil is the only stuff I seen go uphill...

whole truck with a winch is $3500

Yeah, I was wrong, thats what I get for cooking the steaks, looking stuff up, and watching this at the same time.

Ah HAH! So many know and won't tell

just a picture of the thing left right interchangeable with a little work Assure you grease the nubs on the window regulator thing while you in there as the mechanism will never rot except for the nubs where the little clips go. Daub grease all over them nubs.

I like the Australian made unit from the Irish store. Anyhow it is better built than the back of this Audi.

So the button, if it does comes off, does so during engine shutdown?

Well now I know for sure it can't be done, Thanks

I like mine, commercial, wasn't much. and I use a NAPA tube check valve thing on the bleed fitting.

This is about hydraulic heads, buttons, retainer clips, and a sophisticated mechanism. So it is raining cats and dogs and lightning and nasty things out here, can't even get to the grill, and I am studying, Labor day noon. Oh, and the clothes dryer just failed. I have always wanted to know how...

Study exactly what happens when one pulls on the engine shutoff handle of the cable to the thingamahjig which moves the whatisit. You might not want to just yank on the cable to stop it. One is operating a valve within a complicated mechanism. maybe see post 32 in here...

read http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?34782-M-Series-Door-Latch-Repair and there is a lot more in the search to be found look in here too http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74112-Drivers-Door-Handle-Problem