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See post # 34 for more details I posted for the Texas sales office 86humv.... LOL. You can run, but can not hide. sell seLL SELL, CAMO

These are the shorter, solid stick antenna with the rounded tip. Special flat plate like base with "N" male in center. 4 hole, standard mount. Here's some pictures for the gang. When you get it figured out ... don't fo get my commission 💰, CAMO If it was ME... this is the one to have for...

There you go. Anyone with a Sitemaster should have this figured out.🤔 Run the plot and report back. The design is not a chop and tune to see what happens. It is a coaxial collinear stack of elements, sealed in the fiberglass radome whip. Won't be any tuning, but we have used them...

420 to 450 MHz. VSQ/1 antennas all part of the same system. If you want the gain in this design range, IMO these are the ones. Going for a wide bandwidth is going to have reduced gain to the negative in most of the "military" models. That and the use of diplexer/s or splitters. Most...

AS-3449/VSQ-1s the one for UHF 440 ham band. Get on the air, CAMO

Wait till you see the price for doors. Hobby or investment ???, CAMO

Wayback machine... 20 years ago when Murphy Surplus was selling them "cheap" picked up three of them. Coupled up to Motorola MCS2000, 420 to 450, 40 watt rigs. Uses a male "N" connector. VSWR flat across the band and exhibits 4-5 dB gain as published. AS-3449/VSQ-1 Darn near unbreakable...

Check those pages (440 & 880) to see "to and from" circuit or pull the wiring diagrams and follow along. The 27 circuit feeds 24 Volts to all gauges... so the dash voltmeter could be a clue. Another... does the emergency / park "BRAKE" led work. It's on the same 27 circuit. Another clue if you...

If I follow... we know the LED is good on the bench, OK. Do the test I recommended and follow along in the TM. > https://www.stewartwarner.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/434956-Traditional-Electric-Gauge.pdf Take a peek at page 440 shows basic connections to LED. Page 880 give "secret"...

Want to help the new guy... but already gave bad info. ME BAD..."Search Forums" to find problem discussed and "fixes" "Poking and prodding" likely will not result in a fix with understanding of what's going on, BUT is good to get familiar with "this and that" Most if not ALL problems have...

Which one do you want to fix first? Two separate problems. Look back thru the "find threads" for Fan runs and or Temp gauge problems. TON's of info. Stumped too, CAMO

That's a lot of technology in that switch just to turn on the lights IMO. Clap on...Clap off, CAMO

Water, dust, noise, visibility, rattles, weak locking mechanism, possible theft (can be remedied), shipping $$$, and costing more everyday. Your choice. It's the HumV experience, CAMO

Don't mine trying to help via interweb here on the SS Site. 🆘 Preliminary investigation of all the simple stuff is a good way to get a feel of what you got and what were trying to do or fix. So the fact is... it never did / could work. That would have been helpful up front. LED is just to...

My response to the part in blue in post # 3 copied here. The wait indicator is an LED with a internal 300 ohm current limiting resistor. Wire # 27 is 24 volts from the "RUN" position. The other wire #571 is pulled low (to ground) in the "control box" to illuminate. They can and do go bad. Easy...

ARE YOU KIDDING...$671 dollars to fix what??? I am in the wrong business, CAMO

50 post later and I thought one had this fixed. I get the frustration..DOH. You should be on this end of the thread. ALL the data, narration, documentation, parts changed ( maybe a picture, part number or vendor) and video was nice, voice over better. Walk us thru the shit show just like a...

Would have been nice to have a narration to the video as I didn't see what your trying to demonstrate. Seeing fan going round and round. Looking for clutch movement and if you were flipping the switch ON / OFF didn't catch it. Maybe my bad eyesight. Now I can't hear after the video, CAMO

The wait indicator is an LED with a internal 300 ohm current limiting resistor. Wire # 27 is 24 volts from the "RUN" position. The other wire #571 is pulled low (to ground) in the "control box" to illuminate. They can and do go bad. Easy test. Ground the #571 lead to test with IGN switch in...

Back up and see the photos. Post #5. CAMO