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Kcollum, that is very very common.

It is easier to remove the elbow.

In all the time you have been using them, have you had any of them fail? How old are the oldest ones you have still in service? It sounds like your results have been very good.

On top of the secondary filter housings, there is either an petcock or a plug. Check for pressure there. About 6 psi with the engine off and in-tank pump running. If you simply open the petcock, it should be "guessable" that it's OK, if it shoots up wards some.

I would replace the filters and the gaskets, to eliminate those as possible cause for poor idle. It's basic maintenance, not time or money wasted. Is your in-tank pump operational? Have you checked the pressure at the secondary filters?

Do you have fresh fuel filters(all 3)?

To properly diagnose this, you need to use a volt meter or test light. The sound is no indication of continuity or voltage present.

Is this use on M1008 and or M1009 trucks? With stock wiring? And stock controller? What do they cost? 6 hours or 3 days, interesting.

You don't want water or dust to get in there.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/60960-doghead-starter-relay-modifcation.html

They have sealed bearings. Replace them.

Sizzling sounds, are often cable ends or battery terminals, melting/arcing out. Clean and inspect all of your heavy battery cables. Cold weather causes low battery voltage and higher friction, and that means higher amps drawn, and that means weak connections fail.

A search on SS for "SL134" pulls up 8 other threads mentioning this switch. While it does fit and work, it is NOT approved for use with DOT 5 brake fluid(as noted by my post in this link) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/30778-sorry-one-millionth-brake-light-question.html I image many others...

Remove the vent after a ride, and see if there is any pressure at all. Or, just leave it off for a trip. What brand/source are you buying for replacement seals? Correct bearing preload is important. Is the sealing surface of the hub damaged? Is it the inner or outer seal that keeps...

I know how Bosch spells it(but look at how they spell their own name!) I just meant to search it as I spelled it also(because we have discussed them here on SS some).

Next time, hit "ENTER", after typing... ;)

If he used a relay that was supplied with 12v+(constant supply) and triggered the relay with the keyed 12v+, it would work. Adding a diode is much more simple.

No, it might shut off faster/like normal.

It would be interesting to try shutting off the truck, with the headlights on.

Is the fan on whenever the key is on? No temp sensor? You could add a diode, or add a relay, to fix this, if that indeed is the issue. I'd disconnect the fan and be sure it isn't just a bad shutoff solenoid.