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Let us know what the current cost looks like. Very curious.

It can't. And no little puny sheet metal tube is going to stop it if it wanted to, it would turn that shock into a banana immediately if it bottomed it out. The shock isn't a suspension limiter and couldn't be even if it wanted to.

They haven't been worked much due to the springs keeping them extended. Drive them a while without the springs. Mine came around even though one was a little notchy like you described. Didn't matter in practice. They sorted themselves out.

So the truck won't fully compress them. That's not a bad thing. You don't want them to bottom out. I'm not seeing an issue.

If you let the suspension droop fully you should be able to install them. That's how I have done them with springs installed. If it's locked out shorter then block up the axle and let the truck down till the bolts will go in.

When installing brand new rear shocks on my truck I experienced the same thing with both the originals and the new ones. Once they lock out on you, you can't move them. But the truck can. You can't apply tons of force like the truck can. It seems like they are seized when they do that but they...

Put them back on. They do have speed sensitive valving and even the normal FMTV shocks will appear to "seize up" if you move them hard and fast. Try them on the truck first before you condemn them. I don't think you want to find another set of these. They are over $2k each. And basically...

True that. The "shielding" that people think is for EMP is not for the truck. It's so the truck doesn't interfere with coms and other military equipment such as high powered radar for missile systems, etc and so they don't suck the life energy out of all the truck computers. If they were worried...

That's some clipboard warriors idea of a CYA. Someone, somewhere did something really stupid like clipping the ground to an electronic module housing directly. This is the result I'm guessing. That or litigation that went sideways because lawyers and judges also don't understand electricity in...

Absolutely. And I've seen what some people think is acceptable for u-joint installation. Just did some on a surplus truck with 6k miles. You'll want the u-joint removal tool. Joe's be pounding them in with a sledgehammer. The cups should slip into the yokes by hand. If they don't investigate why...

Also cover any glass or mirrors with welding blankets or they will be RUINED.

No. Fuel lines are different across the different engines and hydraulic lines usually just get made as needed by any local hose shop. Neither are anything special. The brake stuff is a little weird and special being DOT and especially the A1R upgrades. The PTC fittings for the intermediate and...

Generally you don't need to do anything. Locate your ground near to where you are welding. If you happen to be really close to an electronic module that you think it may arc across then remove it completely. Ultimately the current has to flow back to ground and a truck sitting on 47" tires...

At some point you just have to start removing stuff, and then shield the area with some tin can heat sheilds, wrap things in wet rags, etc and apply a liberal application of blue wrench. As my shop foreman likes to say - can't be stuck if it's liquid.

The box does nothing in relation to amperage. It's for polarity protection on the A0. If you have an A1/A1R that's a different story. The PPD (Polarity Protection Device) and the later LBCD (Load, Battery Control Device) both provide polarity protection but the LBCD does MUCH more and there are...

Sounds like a limp mode. Probably some emissions foolishness or sensor failure. Sadly I don't mess with Cummins or really anything into the 2010+ emissions era. Waste of effort. Rip it off and reprogram it.

Definitely a concern. My truck was hit in the drivers step and it bent the $hat out of the step and step curtain. And then in addition the floor above the lift ram was buckling from the bouncing of the cab from the AOP pulsations. Royal mess. Replaced the step and step curtain and both fenders...

That whole mess back there should have got several someone's reprimanded or fired. To be fair it was a REALLY quarter-arse setup that was quickly implemented to delete the air ride because the cost to install it on trucks that were (at the time) going to have the cabs upgraded to armor did not...

Just bypass it and don't use the ether when it's contra-indicated. Pretty simple IMO. Don't be an idiot PV2 and start pressing buttons you haven't been trained on. Might eject the warp core. Get busted down to mosquito wings.

The part numbers can and do change as CAT changes stuff so the best bet for sensors and parts that were supplied with the engine to the manufacturer is to contact your local CAT dealer and give them your engine serial number - this will get you the most up to date parts for that specific engine...