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I zoomed in and I see what you mean now. They certainly do look like arc or scorch marks. The only way I could see that happening is someone popping the fuse in or out while the machine was running, and that doesn't seem like a recipe for success to me. All the best, 2Pbfeet

FWIW: I think with some careful cleaning a Digital Touch up might improve. This is just twiddling a few "knobs"

I keep a few common thin (low profile) open end wrenches around for situations like this. However, in addition to @Light in the Dark's great suggestions, there is also unscrewing the swivel flare fitting on the hose to improve the access. Lots of ways to do it... All the best, 2Pbfeet

That Power-Klenz seems to be made of light oil, a detergent, and some heavy naphtha, which isn't exactly great for your health Screenshot from the MSDS below https://www.primrose.com/test.primrose.com/images/DataSheets/sds/5007.pdf All the best, 2Pbfeet

@jimmr Photos might be helpful.

I think that it is really is better to follow the TM for starting and troubleshooting. The various safety and control features of these generators do run via the prime / run switch. So if that isn't working, I would start there. Jumping around can cause more issues than just following the...

Can you give a little more detail please? When you replaced the filter, did you bleed the air out of the high pressure lines? How exactly have you been starting it? Are any of the red lights coming on? Which green lights? If you look inside the front panel, switches have a label by them...

Yesterday, for fun, I tried cross referencing all of the listed manufacturer's part numbers for the NSN above, and the one and only one that I could find was Oshkosh, who were willing to price it and price the shipping. I freely admit that failure to find is not the same as not existing...

@zapp, yes those seals look pretty toasted. Congratulations on getting into the engine this far. All the best, 2Pbfeet

While Oshkosh supposedly has them in stock, but at $200 for one, shipped, I wonder if devilman's suggestion above to replace the whole intake assembly makes more practical sense.🤷‍♂️

Thanks for sharing the video link! That video is a fascinating and very informative look at the rather sophisticated (I think) control system. It seems quite clever, and definitely an unusual solution in my experience. Do you have any insights about why a magnetic control system was used...

@kloppk is the expert. If it were me, I would double check the wires and the wire terminals to wire connections to be sure that there isn't some loose wire(s) or internal corrosion that is causing extra resistance, and overloading the AVR. I would also give the entire field wiring circuit from...

If it were me, I would try a 5/8-18 bolt before going too much farther. I can't count the number of times I was sure that I had eyeballed the size of a bolt, only to be off. Is an MSP675C a compact version of an MSP675? All the best, 2Pbfeet

If it is of concern, I think that It is straightforward to install a pair of aftermarket digital ammeters, or check with a clamp on meter.

Great memory! Yes, the inner thread is 1/4-18 NPT (National Pipe Taper) taper thread. All the best, 2Pbfeet

I don't. Bits of Teflon tape are said not play nice with diesel injectors, and I have never wanted to put it to the test. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Personally, I like the L-series Yanmar engines. They are built like tanks and are about as simple as diesels can be, making a great place to learn for folks who want to. The simplicity reminds me of a more modern version of the original Lister engines that you could find all over Africa and...

If it were me, I wouldn't rush to make this a parts machine. Yanmar part are easy to come by, though OEM parts can be on the not so cheap side. Given what you have found, it seems as if you have an oil leak, probably either a valve guide or a ring, or a cracked piston. If it were me, I would...

DeOxIt is my go to cleaner/deoxidizer. I think that there is a difference between clean (free of gunk), and electrically clean (free of oxides and other insulating materials). You want the latter. DeOxIt isn't cheap, but a little goes a long, long way, so the cost/use ends up being not much. If...

Most should accept 28V as it is in the range of charging voltages for a 24V battery bank, e.g. this pure sine 2kW inverter accepts 21-31V https://www.amazon.com/EDECOA-Power-Inverter-Outlets-Terminal/dp/B08TWDFZBC I've never used this brand above personally, so I can't comment on it otherwise...