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I'd suggest connecting your toggle switch across the FL2 float switch and not do it by providing power directly to the Aux Pump. Providing power directly to the pump will backfeed into the A9 possibly damaging it. Wiring to the FL2 circuit would require removing the end panel covering the fuel...

Bolt Specs

Test "h" is verifying the generator is generating the correct flashing voltage. Also getting a reading between 4 and 12 volts indicates continuity to the static exciter. If there was a wiring issue or the static exciter was bad the voltage measured would likely be closer to 24 volts. Test "j"...

From the pics posted below it appears to be a Libby. Green paint and Libby showing between the wires.

Check out this thread. Lots of good info on things to test to track down the cause of a false overload. False Overload Issues

I did put a gauge on one of my 831's. As I recall when initially started it was about 125 PSI. And is warmed up it dropped to about 80-90 PSI.

I've searched and didn't find that resistor as well and a direct substitute that was previously available. An option would be to use a RE70G7R50C02 chassis mount resistor.

Since you have the same voltages across R12 and R13 I'd suspect one of those burden resistors failed and is open circuit.

Correct. If the AC voltages to the K8 terminal pairs is less than 5.6 volts AC and you get an overload fault then I'd say K8 is bad. Since you are seeing voltage in excess of that then the issue is with the switch contacts, wiring or R12 or R13. Yes, you would normally see the same AC voltage...

There are usually a pair of laminated schematic pages in that storage pocket. The same schematic info is in the back of the TM mentioned in the post above.

If the contacts close putting the two resistors in parallel the resistance should be 3.75 ohms.

On S8 be sure to spray the Deoxit in the opening by each screw on both sides of S8. This pic points out just two of the numerous spots to apply Deoxit. You can see the contacts in S8 through the openings if there isn't a wire lug in the way such as the opening by the left arrow. In that opening...

My money is on contacts 13 & 14. They are supposed to be closed in 120/240 mode putting R13 in parallel with R12. If they don't make good contact it'll cause the excessive voltages you are seeing between 3 & 4.

I'd suggest doing the following to narrow down if it's a K8 problem or a burden resistor or S6 or S8 switch contact issue. Running is 120/240 mode apply your 5,000 watt load. Then measure the AC voltage across K8 terminal pairs: 1 & 4 2 & 4 3 & 4 Each pair should have about 5.6 volts AC. This...

Close enough. My board measures the AC Frequency to measure the engine RPM. So, at no load the RPM should be about 3,050 RPM (254 Hz PMA Frequency). It adjusts the throttle to achieve the required RPM based on the Load signal from the inverter so that the engine RPM is correct for the load.

I see in the pics and videos that somewhere in it's life someone cut the safety wires off the two mechanical governor adjustments. Not good... Those are adjusted at the factory and normally would not ever be messed with. Someone messed with those adjustments. In the short video the governor...

You may want to carefully verify the DCS is being provided +24 volts to the P2 plug on the back of the DCS. B+ pins should have +24 volts on them.

Check the fuse in the fuse/relay box to be sure the one for the DCS is there and good and that all the connectors to the fuse/relay box are connected.

Pretty close. Here is a link to a post I did a while back with waveforms from various MEP generators. Waveforms

Here are some waveforms I took of both my local utility power and of my 1030 under a 60% load. Utility Power 2.4% THD My 1030 Under 60% Load 2.6% THD