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hmmmmm... I bet since my retran this procedure was never done . ..question ..the second to last step advised power switch on.. depress pedal...
the final step is to start the engine.... while the pedal is depressed to the cab floor? or is it meant to be started in the normal fashion with no...
be advised , sometimes there is a small set screw underneath the knob... I "rebuilt" all 4 of my selector valves but did not find single set screw in any of the knobs...
the red dot shows 2 o rings... the 25 year old, hard with squared edges and the new HF Blue O Ring ... 86 the the old o ring.....that was the cause of the leakage behind the knob...
I've found that the S&S door handles are reasonable robust... it's the cheap ass pot metal "actuator arm" is the weak point... the Trimarks would certainly do the job..but watching Dr. Neil and his surgical precision... i thought "that's a sure fire way for Berzerker888 to lose a limb"..! lol
now if we can get Ronmar to engineer/market, or at a bare minimum a schematic and parts list.... using a Wolverine pump system which functions both the cab tilt/spare tire thingies..... hint hint
my remedy to the cheap pot metal door latch actuator, which BTW has been bullet proof for nearly 1 year, cost @$2.00 and 30 minutes of my life... I bought a pair of Tacoma door handles as suggested by Ronmar and attempted to go that route....yikes when the cut off wheel, cut off the tip of my...
Ronmar, updates?.. all bugaboos found and corrected?... needless to say a manual pump, bypassing the fussiness if the a/o system would be a must have..
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