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Not 100% sure what you are trying to point out. Everything is welded to the frame. Do you think the flex of the frame could cause the welds to fail? I am extremely concerned about safety, I looked at several dump trucks that have been in service for a long time and they all had similar setups...

The back of the plate is reinforced with 4in x 1/2 steel plates. I cut all materials and tacked them in place and had a local welder do all of the welding with a larger machine than I have. He is a professional fabricator and does commercial dump trucks all the time. He has assured me that this...

Rear hitch plate is complete.

the next step is to figure out how to work the 12v electric brakes. I have picked up a nice 24v to 12v converter capable of 40amp output. But that’s as far as I have gotten. Any recommend for brake controllers would be great.

Hey, it’s been a while since I have posted on here. The Dump conversion is still running strong and I have had no issues! I am currently working on adding a hitch plate. I picked up a trailer for my excavator and need a way to tow it. When I did the dump conversion I shortened the frame and had...

Thank you, about to purchase a new old stock "d" turbo off eBay right now. I have a lot of hauling to get done this weekend.

My "C" turbo just went on me over the weekend. I was pulling up a hill and the turbo started screeching, lost power and started blowing smoke. I have pulled the turbo off and inspected it. The findings revealed that the bearing went bad, and the turbine wheel is rubbing on about 15% on the...

The truck in action!!

Here are a couple more pictures with the hoist and subframe installed.

Yes, that is correct, I used 1/4 in thick 4x2 steel tube for the subframe and the bed is now 4" higher than factory.

Here are some pictures, and a video will come soon.

Your dump conversion looks great! Is there anything you wish you had done differently? I have measured over and over again. I am still using the hardwood spacer and the 4" subframe. It will give me an extra 1" of clearance between the hoist cylinder and the closest bed cross member. I designed...

The sub frame is coming along well. Here are a couple pics. Next weekend I should be able to get the hinge welded in place and the hoist secured properly.

Looks great! I will need to make a light bar for work lights once I complete my Dump Conversion complete.

I agree with you, I think the added strength is important. And yes, the bed will be 4" higher than on the stock truck. I want to be able to change out the bed if needed. My current bed has the drop sides, and I plan on doing a lot of dirt work/ excavation projects with this truck. Including...

Hopefully next weekend I can get the dump body sub frame complete using 4x2 steel tubing. The sub frame serves 2 functions. It makes the body changeable. And provides the spacing required for the hoist without cutting the bed x-members.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to everyone, I am using a 24V electric over hydraulic power pack. I will post pictures when I get to that stage of the conversion. The hinge will be welded to the frame and boxed in.

The frame should be shortened to move the hinge point closer to the center trunnion. This allows for increased dumping capacity and better load stabilization.

I am in the process of installing a lift hoist in my 1972 M35A2. I will try to include as many details as I can so it will be informative for other members attempting to do a similar conversion. I purchased a Harsh RL-D40 hoist kit with a 24V power pack. Total price was $2300.00. This lift will...