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Sorry for the delay. I am a knucklehead! I had the wrong setting on my multi-meter. I am showing 12v at both batteries when disconnected. I am also showing 12v at the junction box when the batteries are connected. I have to wait until my wife gets home to help me test out everything else...

This is relevant to what I am experiencing as well. I am showing 24v at the junction block. When I tested this, the leads for the multi-meter are on the junction block and then grounded it out to the firewall. The batteries are wired properly, according to the pictures above, and the lead...

Nice!!! I will be checking on this one. I would like to do this as well if I had a M1010.

Thanks to all for the info as well!

It has! The usual things here and there but I love this thing! I want to keep it for a while.

I know I am raising a thread from the dead. How has this held up for those that have done it? Anyone do the cab corners?

Here is an update as of today. I got another new battery on Monday, so I now have two new batteries. I also replaced all four of the battery connectors and cleaned up what I could. I found that I was blowing fuse number 7 (30amp headlight). I am not sure why at this time, I am using the LMC...

Excellent info! I will do this. Thanks again!

Thanks I will check it out. I don't have a garage and it is supposed to rain tomorrow, so I may not be able to check on it until next Sunday. Thank you once again for all the help. I will do more reading on the electrical system while I am away.

Sorry about that. It has been a busy couple of weeks at work. I just came came inside from working on it. I installed a new wire from my switch to the relay and disconnected the light blue wire from the relay. I then reconnected my batteries. One is new and the other I charged overnight...

I updated post #9 with these pictures of what I am working with. The picture of the installed relay is upside down. Oops! I can not work on the truck today but hopefully on tomorrow. I will keep this updated. Thanks again for all of your help!

I cleaned off a good ground. There in continuity between the ground and the switch. There is also continuity between the switch and my new splice to the card. There seems to be a continuity issue between the splice and the relay. Since I am putting a manual bypass a burnt out card should not...

Sorry about that. I just tried a jumper wire from a ground to the terminal in the relay that the light blue wire goes to. (I removed the light blue wire first) The relay worked. I also saw my wait to start light come on for the first time ever since I have owner the truck. There seems to...

It may very well come to this. Thanks for the info!

Here is the wire that I have tapped into for the new switch. Here is how I have my new relay wired. It is the Advanced Auto Parts relay S603. Here is the old relay that I took out of the truck. Cheap MS paint for clarity. (Hopefully) 01-03-15 I updated with attached images.

I did remove the fused lead from the battery. The way you described is how I wired it tonight. I spliced in a wire to the light blue wire from the card, to a new switch and then grounded that switch. The previous owner had wired the switch directly from the battery and then to the relay...

Sorry about that. It has been a long day. What I was trying to say was that I did the glow plug resistor bypass. After doing the bypass, I tried the momentary switch and all it did was blow another fuse. At that point I removed the relay that was in the truck and replaced it with the...

BTW, it is a 85 M1008. Thanks in advance!

Glow plug relay issue.....again. Update on post #31 Long story, my truck had a manual switch already installed from the previous owner. They had wired in, what looked to be, a different relay and used a fused (20amp) lead from the rear battery to the momentary switch. That switched lead then...

Wow! This has given me a lot to think about. Thanks for the detailed replies!