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Welcome to the world of CUCVs. Get your tools ready :-P

Got the front brakes all replaced and put back together. I'm glad I opted to do the drivers side as well because when I took off the locking hub assembly, there were no signs of grease. Got back into the wheel bearings and there was even less grease there. Cleaned it all out real good and...

I've only had the truck for 3 months now, and haven't had the front wheels off yet until now. Rotors, calipers, pads, and the rubber brake lines are going to be replaced on both sides.

I always ride with the windows down and it never made any noise. Back in college I was riding with a friend in his f150 when he wore through his bake pads. I will never forget that screeching sound. But with this truck, there was no metal on metal to screech.

You called it. Hung caliper wore out the rotors and actually broke the rotor in 2 pieces. Also I figured out that the rear load proportioning valve wasn't set properly after the previous owner put a lift on. After a bunch of searching on here, I reset it and the rear brakes are now working...

From a thread located here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/63790-rim-tire-set-up-7.html

I've not inspected the fronts yet. I'll try and do that later today. I don't believe the brake system was bled at the shop, and I didn't do it when I inspected the drums on Monday. I know there's some pretty specific procedures for bleeding the brakes on CUCV's so I'll check out TMs before I...

I should clarify my original post - the brakes weren't dragging all the time, only when coming to a stop. It was actually locking down the drivers side rear tire. Turning the one drum and replacing the other fixed the tire locking down problem. Fluid level is full. If the fluid were to...

Last week I noticed my rear brakes on my 1028 dragging. Monday of this week I took the drums off and they were scored pretty bad so I took the truck to a shop to look it over and turn the drums. They were able to turn 1 drum but the other was 3/4" out of round so that got replaced. Yesterday...

It stands for injection pump.

Change your fuel filter often. Check lines for leakage regularly. If you've got the original IP, plan on replacing it soon.

Yeah, injector pumps are a whole different beast and they aren't cheap. I had one guy behind the counter at an auto parts store tell me there's no such thing as a diesel injection pump rofl

$20-$30 if I remember correctly

I don't have a link or part number. I just walked into my local advanced auto and told them I needed a mechanical fuel pump for my truck and they ordered one in. With a mechanical fuel pump, it runs when the engine turns over, which means to bleed the air out you have to crank the truck...

Why not install a new mechanical fuel pump and leave the electric pump but put it on a rocker switch. The mechanical fuel pump is a pretty straight forward install, it's just a PITA due to it's location. When you do it, get the gasket for the plate below the pump as I had to pull the plate...

Tighten the hose clamps. Or are the lines the original lines and are they cracked? If so, replace the lines. Then tighten the hose clamps

Bshupe - what did you end up doing for the fuel tank? I came across this thread as I'm considering adding an auxiliary tank/toolbox in the bed.

Gotta love an easy and inexpensive fix. Good stuff

I had the same symptoms as you. I replaced the fuel line feeding to the IP and tightened it down good. That stopped any signs of leaking there but when I parked the truck I'd still get a few drips of fuel on the driveway. I found that when under load there was a leak in the IP and it would...

I've got a similar setup w/ a 6" and 37s and I get the same shake at 47-48mph. Doesn't matter if I'm speeding up, slowing down, or just coasting. I'll be curious to hear what you find. I haven't had a chance to look into mine yet.