Search results

I will be sure to examine TCI as my source for these transmission parts more critically after these negative reviews, thanks guys! I have the standard 4.56's in mine and with 33 inch equivalent tires. At 75 MPH I will be turning just over 2,600 RPM which is pretty fast, but far from 1,800...

Rich, I had access to the entire 6.2 blazer for nothing other than a tow. The 6.5 truck I got the turbo and 1 trans from had a bad block. It was a parts truck at the diesel shop I worked at. And thanks for the notes about TCI. I don't have a ton of experience with them so any insight...

Hello all, I've never posted in the hot rodding section of the forum before. However, I'm glad to say that that time has arrived. My M1008 will be receiving quite an upgrade in power and speed. I will warn those who wish to follow this thread that this is a long term project that is already...

No problem!

Raise the front axle off the ground securely. Then ensure the power steering reservoir is full and turn the wheel lock to lock 20 or so times. Depress the brake pedal as you do this to purge are from the steering gear and the hydrobooster. Refill the reservoir if need be, a little overfull is...

Ohhhh I misread what you were talking about. Sorry about that. I second doing the chalk test, it's the easiest and best way to see what's going on.

You're saying the shoulders are wearing faster than the center of the tread block? In that case you're tires are under-inflated. This diagram is quite informative on tire wear issues. https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/6885.jpg

I would second the vote for a poorly functioning starter relay, especially if you check connections, batteries and starter and find them to be good. I also suggest the doghead mod as the relay it uses is far far superior to the stock replacement one.

If you've replaced a similar fuel pump on any older vehicle you'll know that there is a plunger that is pushed by the camshaft to drive the fuel pump. This plunger has a shape and fits the cam and also has worn into a specific vertical orientation based on how it was in the engine. It's...

Sweet, glad to hear it you've discovered the source of your troubles!

sierrajcharlie, I've done the disc brake conversion on my rear end, another thing I failed to mention lol. I would be livid if my rear end went while I was here at school and away from my shop to be able to fix it. Although I normally check both of my differentials oil every time I do an oil...

tennmogger, I've already checked the u-joints and I grease them every three months or whenever I take it on some serious trails. dependable, I usually check my tires once a month and they're always right on point where they should be. But I don't know if the shift kit would change the rear...

I have checked that as well. I replaced the old one in like August 2011 after noting fairly serious cracks in the rubber on the old one.

I had considered that however the noise is not the typical clunk of the locker as I've heard that before especially when hammering the throttle in a turn. It very well may be the locker I just wonder why it's just started now even though I've been daily driving it for over two years. I should...

Several months ago a bizarre tinking (hard to describe) noise developed on my truck. It normally happens when shifting from 1st to 2nd gears. It is a very loud noise and is plainly audible reverberating off of nearby buildings when driving in the small city I live in. This leads me to believe...

The quickest thing to do if you are on a time crunch might be to replace the stock mechanical one as it requires no wiring or rearranging of fuel lines. Adding the electric pump requires mounting it to the frame and running the fuel line up to bypass the mechanical one. It also requires wiring...

I don't fully understand what your question is. I did the Roscommon 12v mod on my truck and then a while later did the Doghead relay mod. IIRC I just followed the regular instructions Doghead gave and performed the relay swap. It's been flawless ever since.

By top switch do you mean the fuel heater on the top of the filter housing, next to the air bleed petcock? Also I would do away with the stock filter as much of us have done. I played with my stock housing for a while trying to tweak it, and finally realized it was untweakable. I would look...

Wow that's terrible. :-? So the wiring harness running up the drivers side of the engine toward the drivers alternator is cooked? Did you find out what made the bang noise you described?

So you're monitoring the oil psi with the mechanical gauge and everything is ok? No pressure fluctuations or other strange happenings? Or did you replace the oil pump and everything was well after that? I'm really curious about this issue. Thanks, engineman2