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Found the problem. When I had to slightly reroute the 12v ignition wire from the key switch to the starter solenoid it had a small naked spot that I couldn't see which from time to time was grounding and causing the 12v circuit to stay closed, hence Gen 1 light would not come on. Fixed the...

Using a multimeter, Gen 1 is producing 14.6 volts, Gen 2 is producing 28.8 volts. Makes no sense, it has to be wire somewhere in the 12v system causing the problem. Very strange that the problem started after replacing the starter.

After looking at the wiring diagrams, it occurred to me that if a fuseable link were blown between Gen 1 and the idiot light, then that light would stay on. If a fuseable link were blown in the ignition wiring, then the starter wouldn't crank. Starter cranks, and the Gen 1 light never comes on...

I know whats wrong with the speedo, just haven't fixed it yet. Where should I start looking at fusible links?

Have an 84 M1008. Everything works except speedo and a couple of the blackout lights. Anyway, both Gen 1 and Gen 2 lights have always worked as they should. Starter went out and I replaced it with a 24v gear reduction. Quite a task. So now, the Gen 1 light never comes on, even when you first...

O'Reilly lists 2 for a 1984 K30 with the 6.2. Attached is a pic if one they have on the shelf.

Think I have found the problem. At lower rpms you can see the drive shaft "wiggling" but can't see it at higher rpms. Truck would not shift out of 1st while on blocks I'm guessing due to lack of driving pressure. Never heard the vibration either, but logic tells me that driving on the road...

Ok, this is what I am going to do to "test" my rear drive shaft theory. I am going to put the rear of the truck on jack stands, scotch the front wheels, and "drive" it enough to shift through the gears. Will have a buddy watching from the side for any noticeable weird movement in shaft, and...

Just redid the power steering system with a new pump, belt, and on hose that was leaking. I am about convinced the rear drive shaft is the problem. On inspection I cannot see where it has been dented or bent, and there are weights welded on. I just do not know how to test this theory without...

I know the harmonic balancer needs replacing, the rubber is cracked. However, would a bad balancer not make the noise in sync with engine rpm?

Have not looked at the wheel bearings.

Rear drive shaft does not appear to have been bent, nor does the front shaft. Noise does not occur while sitting still, or revving the engine. No noticeable engine movement while in gear, holding brakes, and revved. I really don't know where to start. One thought is a tire out of balance, or a...

I have an 84 M1008. Runs perfect, drives really good, steering is tight, transmission and transfer case work without problems. This truck came auction at Camp Shelby. I have had to do the usual things to get it road worthy and running correct. The issue I have now is while on the road there is...

No, I kept the old one. It's an original isolated ground unit. When funds permit I am going to have a reliable shop rebuild it for a spare.

Last update. Gen 1 was bad. I replaced it with part number 01-0136 from O'Reilly's. It has a lifetime warranty and is a 100 amp. I had to swap pulleys, and use the original spacers to get the belt lined up. It's working like a well oiled sewing machine, no idiot light, putting out correct...

rlltide12, sorry lol

Warthog, I have owned and restored 2 1943 jeeps (one an MB and the other a GPW). I am a Registered Nurse, very little electrical knowledge. I finally got all the TM'S downloaded last night, as my service here is slow. You guys have been patient with me, I know, and thanks for that. Luckily...

Gen 1 is going bad. Did the above test on idiot light with engine revved, test light never went out. Max output is 12.5-13v. Since this is the driver side alt, does it have to be isolated ground? If not is there a good substitute I can get? If is has to isolated ground, can someone recommend a...

Ok, another dumb question. Which lug is idiot light?

Also, should I have the voltmeter hooked up as well? No on the fusible links....haven't been educated enough to move on to those lol.