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Thread: Excited new M1010 Owner in Cali

  1. #11
    General someoldmoose's Avatar
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    If somebody already addressed it, I missed it and I apologize. The remaining wobble in the bottom pulley can only be "cured" one of two ways, replace the pulley or apply some "love taps" to the old one. The balancer going ( this time, or before ) probably caused the run-out in the pulley. I have done it both ways. It all depends on how much it's out of whack.

    All your other work looks outstanding. Sorry to hear about your work truck. I too believe in automotive "karma" or jealousy. Keep on trucking !
    "7, 6, 2 millimeter. Full Metal Jacket . . ."

    She is Large, and Beautiful, and I shall call her . . . "Exit Strategy" 'cause I should prolly oughta have one.

    Somebody Important I guess -
    " Give a man a fish and he'll look atcha like, What the eff am I supposed to do with this? Teach a man to fish and he'll always have an excuse to hook up his Johnson equipped boat to get away from his Ol ' Lady and hang out on the lake." Or sumthin like that.

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  3. #12
    Sergeant cruzer747's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by someoldmoose View Post
    If somebody already addressed it, I missed it and I apologize. The remaining wobble in the bottom pulley can only be "cured" one of two ways, replace the pulley or apply some "love taps" to the old one. The balancer going ( this time, or before ) probably caused the run-out in the pulley. I have done it both ways. It all depends on how much it's out of whack.
    I just spent 10 minutes making calls and surfing the web and can not find the proper 4 belt pulley. Being that I am only using one I am tempted to try the one that they have at Saturn Surplus but that one is a 3 belt and the diameters are different as well so I may try and source the right one when I get more time. I could try and tap things but a new pulley would save some of my sanity.... as far as my work truck, the Kseal head gasket repair seems to be holding so I will be able to pick a better time to investigate... I am not surprised and agree with your automotive jealousy theory

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    General someoldmoose's Avatar
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    Please don't shoot the messenger, but I thought you already knew the "right" pulley is scarce as hen's teeth ( rare ). One idea if the love tap method or replacement aren't viable MIGHT be to convert the accessory drive to the serpentine style used on later models. I DO NOT know for sure if this can be done but if it were mine I'd surely consider it.
    "7, 6, 2 millimeter. Full Metal Jacket . . ."

    She is Large, and Beautiful, and I shall call her . . . "Exit Strategy" 'cause I should prolly oughta have one.

    Somebody Important I guess -
    " Give a man a fish and he'll look atcha like, What the eff am I supposed to do with this? Teach a man to fish and he'll always have an excuse to hook up his Johnson equipped boat to get away from his Ol ' Lady and hang out on the lake." Or sumthin like that.

  5. #14
    Sergeant Major Mad Texan's Avatar
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    Nice looking M1010! I saw it on Craigslist... it disappeared quickly. Who shipped it for you? Did you feel the price was reasonable?

  6. #15
    Sergeant cruzer747's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Texan View Post
    Nice looking M1010! I saw it on Craigslist... it disappeared quickly. Who shipped it for you? Did you feel the price was reasonable?
    Coastal Auto Shipping was the shipping co, based in Fl so it started local for them.... they were very competitive and I do not have any complaints aside from the lack of communication as far as arrival date, it came MUCH earlier than I anticipated and threw me for a loop when I got the call to meet. Other than that they were great and I still would like to go online and add to their great feedback (which was part of why I chose them). I don't mind saying the cost of shipping here but can share via PM if you want to know exactly. Not sure if it is frowned upon for any reason?

    As far as if you were asking if the price of the vehicle was reasonable... I negotiated what I feel was a reasonable deal and have not done a full diagnostic engine check but aside from anything major breaking soon I am very happy with the purchase, in spite of the real life burden of getting it up to speed for camping turning out to be a bit more than anticipated.... but I am fine with that.

    That said I hope to be getting the dash back together tomorrow and will share pics soon, unfortunately the VDO tach I got came with a rattle in it and out popped some chip so I am going to be tachless for a week. I did get a digital tach to confirm the vdo's accuracy. Pics soon...

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    Sergeant cruzer747's Avatar
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    Okay, I know it has been a while but I have been really busy trying to get my work truck (6.5TD)back together... H.G job and a little bit of deck repair on the block

    Here is a sneak peek at the dash and gauges before I put the top bezel on along with a question or two.

    So I swapped the fuel filter and solved the leak, swapped the starter (discovered 3 broken teeth during the job as well as the old style worked well with the starter bracket but the new one was nowhere close so I cut and redrilled the bracked so it would do its job. Out of curiosity was it possible I had a 24v starter with a 12v solenoid or did they change the stud on the rear of the starter at some point? The starter given was the same for my 94 gmc 6.5.)

    I also after looking at the new gauges do there thing noticed an odd sometimes erratic jumpiness of the oil pressure gauge. For the most part it stays where it should...60 cold, 30 hot... watch it momentarily go from 0 to 60 a split second after start, I am confident it is reading PRETTY well but sometimes it has a bit of bounce and I have even seen it go to what might be 70 psi or so which is past the limits of the gauge and I believe around the start of the oil bypass? After seeing this I put on a new WIX filter and new oil. Today it still did the same thing with no rhyme or reason but I usually notice it around idle. This is just food for thought at the moment as when I get a second I will be adding a mechanical gauge on top of the sending unit driven new gauge to verify the spikes/fluctuation. I am pretty confident with my connections but you never know.

    My other question is this hill that always gives me trouble. It just becomes anemic beyond what I feel is normal for the rig... I mean 10 degrees less slope and I can accelerate past 50 if wanted, this hill, no dice, power goes away and I struggle with holding 35 with the pedal mashed. Fuel tank issues? Any other place that could be tilt sensitive?

    Final notes are that the filter/starter swap have completely solved the hot start issue. I would have this dash done but there was a bad unit sent and so I had to wait for a return and am now awaiting a replacement. I am going to be installing the vdo 4k and referencing using the tiny tach that is mentioned around these parts to adjust the trimmer on the thing to get it dialed. Hopefully will have it all sorted soon. Here are some vids of the hill climb and the gauge bouncing. Oh and all sending units are new.



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    About starters for the 6.2, I was only aware that they came in 2 styles, direct drive and gear reduction. Warthog shows them here. Does yours look like either?

    Can't help with the up hill acceleration comparison, the only hill around is a landfill and I'm not willing to speed up that.

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    Sergeant cruzer747's Avatar
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    That is it, old one was 12v direct drive and new one is 12v gear reduction. Thankyou! As far as the uphill thing goes I am almost convinced it is fuel tank/pickup related (cracked tube or bad baffle) that might lower the pressure to the ip? Not sure but with so much on my plate it will be a while before that comes into focus on the do list. For now it will be finishing the gauges and verifying the accuracy of the oil pressure gauge and then Back to wiring the box up for camping and fixing leaks... I was surprised at how many spots were letting in water. The Fire dept did not worry too much as I am sure it was always garaged. The windows they put in were installed sideways so weep holes needed to be filled and re cut... eventually replaced.

    Quote Originally Posted by joshuak View Post
    About starters for the 6.2, I was only aware that they came in 2 styles, direct drive and gear reduction. Warthog shows them here. Does yours look like either?

  10. #19
    Sergeant cruzer747's Avatar
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    Default Some new pics

    slow going on the progress but it's going. I am at the tailend of a stud and head gasket job on my 6.5T work truck... ugh. Anyways, while the work truck is down I have been happy to get to drive the rig around and I have made progress in the dash area so I thought Id put up some new pics and share some notes. Not done but getting there, the dash pad is pretty cracked up and I removed it for the time being while I consider options and it also gave me much easier access. I undid the blackout bypass as I saw the headlights and dash flicker the other night and I figured it may be a bad bypass, I like the blackout lights and am happy to say that it all worked well aside from the BO headlight switch does not stay in the on position when flicked up (or down). Also replaced the broken BO tail light today so all good there.

    Here are the dash pics, as far as the funny readings I think it is my fault, I originally picked up a gauge from a 86 van, then ordered the sending units for said gauge but then I saw what looked to be an identical gauge from a 91 van. Nope. The temp senders I believe are the same in function but different body. The 3/8 thread required use of a bushing which took the already short sending unit a bit out of the flow compared to the 1/2" thread and longer reach of the sender for a 91. Temp is now more accurate (~10 degrees higher than what I was seeing before) .

    As far as he oil pressure goes, again different sender, went from the can style to the smaller OPS. I have not yet installed it but for what its worth if anyone else does this the middle pin is to the gauge. I did compare the resistance of these two gauges and they are different but I could not easily bench test/compare them as to what one reads vs the other at a middle of the road resistance ~50 ohms as I could not find any pots that go sub 100 ohm with any accuracy but I believe the new sender will give me a better reading and hopefully cure the erratic needle. If not I will tee in with the mechanical gauge to verify as I really dont want to have to modify another gauge as it was pretty tricky to cut the hole for the seatbelt and ebrake light just so. I also added he clear lens from a blazer I got parts from as this was needed to easily cover the small fuel gauge. I was originally planning on a small piece of plexi but I found the donor that had a full size lens. The smaller 91 gauge has been screwed to a cut out fuel gauge to mount into the dash as it should. I had to trim back the hole where the new small fuel gauge goes and glue it in with enough room for the light I installed (it was on the printed circuit and was installed with some careful drilling)

    All now works as it should but the tach and tranny temp are not receiving input yet from sending spots. Also I will need to put a pot on the light to each of those so I can dial down the brightness to match the rest of the dash. Will be installed with whatever reading resistor that it works out to be for each.



    IMG_20180805_230900.jpgIMG_20180805_113108.jpgIMG_20180805_113034.jpgIMG_20180821_151218.jpgIMG_20180821_170154.jpgIMG_20180822_134926.jpgIMG_20180822_134836.jpgIMG_20180822_134920.jpg
    Last edited by cruzer747; 08-24-2018 at 03:32. Reason: I really need to proofread better

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  12. #20
    Sergeant cruzer747's Avatar
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    so I finished dialing the brightness by adding some resistance on the bulbs that go to the tach and trans temp gauge. I ended up using 50 ohms on the VDO tach and ~5 ohms on the trans. Also used the blue gel light filters but cut the tips off to try and give enough white to match stock. I should have used a better camera but here is a before and after of the brightness/color fix.
    IMG_20180827_215001.jpgIMG_20180827_224101.jpg
    Now on to other wiring. It seems the previous owner (fire department) hacked the harness off that feeds the box. I am wondering if someone here can point me in the right direction for finding a replacement? Otherwise I will just make due with my own splicing. Here are some connector pics. Cant wait to get the rear wired so I can finally insulate and get to the fun stuff!IMG_20180828_133238.jpgIMG_20180828_133245.jpg

    edit: oh, and the proper sending unit cured my funny reading oil pressure... silly mistake but worth noting.
    Last edited by cruzer747; 08-28-2018 at 16:59.

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