M1010 fire rig to camper conversion

Sharecropper

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So the alternator to wp and crank pulley is very accurate. (Tops the pulley is out a 64th over the roughly 4" pulley) like you said it is almost impossible to measure the ps pulley and the AC... But they are very close. Wouldnt imagine them making that much strum on a belt that was in a different vgroove though even if they were out.
Well at least now you know. I had to pull my ps pulley forward a full 1/8” to get it aligned with the water pump and crank pulleys.
 

Skinny

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I'm skeptical that a pulley being 1/16" off is causing a strum. A tractor grass deck rolls 90 degree turns without issues. V belts are pretty resilient to misaligent.

If I am guessing here it is just low rpm harmonics combined with a long distance on the non tension side of the belt returning back to the crank pulley. It tends to improve with more tension but I doubt you can eliminate it by going above the recommended tension norbis it good to stress the alternator bearing that hard.

Of course I'm not an engineer and I don't drive a train so your mileage may vary. I think if tensioning in tighter improves it a bit doesn't eliminate it but picking the rpms up just a hair makes it go away, it is more of operating speed issue (particular load at idle which lands at 600 rpm) then anything else. Nature of the beast of a v belt. Angular misalignment is like half a degree on a v belt but there isn't really a tolernace for parallel offset unless you want to take a bunch of measurements and apply some calculus.

The auto tensioned serpentine on my 8.1 runs quiet as a mouse with sneakers...just sayin. Wait that's hateful.



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cruzer747

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I'm skeptical that a pulley being 1/16" off is causing a strum. A tractor grass deck rolls 90 degree turns without issues. V belts are pretty resilient to misaligent.

If I am guessing here it is just low rpm harmonics combined with a long distance on the non tension side of the belt returning back to the crank pulley. It tends to improve with more tension but I doubt you can eliminate it by going above the recommended tension nor is it good to stress the alternator bearing that hard.
I am leaning to agree with you here. I am going to probably end up putting an idler in the mix eventually and see what happens. If I dig through my boneyard maybe I will find something I can mod up quick and cheap like. I dont mind the diesel clatter, but that belt twanging around like a one string banjo has got to go. And yes, it is new(ish). Anyways, I think the voltage regulator is on its way out... wondering if a dodgey regulator might be introducing some sort of additional jerky load frequencies?

Being that there is occasional bearing noise I think I will replace the unit as a whole and report back. I found some discussion and good pointers about it here.

* they see me in my rig a strummin, they be hatin' * :cool: :p
 
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cruzer747

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Hey all, about to head up to the snow for a week, completed the phone tablet holder with indoor outdoor thermometer and clock with the backlight wired to headlights. Probably have 30 hours in that! Replaced the brushes and front bearing on the alternator. Also got the idler pulley fabbed up from an old 6.5 vacuum pump. It really cut the strum down.
Took the AC belt off as well as there is no AC at the moment. Getting all ready to hit the road and noticed the leak of death from I see the IP. So I am just going to hope I can go another 600 miles before the drip starts flooding. Is this a safe assumption?

Also haven't do e my research but is there a favorite rebuilder on here?

Here are some pics.
IMG_20201223_152042.jpgIMG_20201222_193600.jpgIMG_20201220_161218.jpgIMG_20201223_151756.jpgIMG_20201223_151732.jpg
 

Skinny

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Tablet holder is pretty boss.

You can probably go quite some time before you get a steady leak dripping down the engine. I think brand new units from a stanadyne dealer is that much more money than a rebuilt unit.

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Mad Texan

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Hey all, about to head up to the snow for a week, completed the phone tablet holder with indoor outdoor thermometer and clock with the backlight wired to headlights. Probably have 30 hours in that! Replaced the brushes and front bearing on the alternator. Also got the idler pulley fabbed up from an old 6.5 vacuum pump. It really cut the strum down.
Took the AC belt off as well as there is no AC at the moment. Getting all ready to hit the road and noticed the leak of death from I see the IP. So I am just going to hope I can go another 600 miles before the drip starts flooding. Is this a safe assumption?

Also haven't do e my research but is there a favorite rebuilder on here?
Everything looks great! I used Diesel Care & Performance when I had my pump done.
 

cruzer747

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thankyou for the suggestions, after the initial startup and observed leak, it has not returned in about 700 miles of driving including plenty of cold mornings. It looks like it will stay on the backburner and hopefully be fixed by way of 6.5T install in a year or so. I have some milestones in my life that need tackling before I have that sort of time though so a pump rebuild is still very much on the table. Also I forgot to mention I ordered and installed the sleeve that Sharecropper mentioned and while under there noticed that most of the leak was likely the splined rubber washer. I cleaned it good and installed it with a serving of The Right Stuff and there is zero drip after 700 miles.

700 more miles on the tranny, problem free and running without the dust cover makes a HUGE difference in the cold weather as far as keeping temps under control while climbing grades, only had to use the manual lockup once when I got back to warmer temps (as opposed to last year when in the same cold temps it was hot hot hot). Still very happy with the tranny and will be installing that other cooler before any summer camping is to be had.

Got stuck once (tried to go a little bit onto a seasonal forest route and pulled off at a turnout and it just sunk about 6" and clogged the tread on the tires, thankfully it was not raining and still mostly daylight so moving the winch bumper to the front was quick enough and with the help of two trees I was free.

Chinese diesel heater is getting sooted up, no more long hours on low, running em at full heat is better to avoid that.

Oh, I also found an app for my tablet that looks great for playing music. Casse-o-player, cycles through about 30 different replica animated cassettes and it has about a dozen different animated vu meters. Also tablet related, while I was using Avenza for the MVUM maps (ohv forest routes etc...) when I got back to civilization and noticed the creator of US Topo Maps took my suggestion a while back and added them as an overlay option. Very useful for finding cool new routes that are still open during winter.
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