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Thread: mep 004a no fault lights working plus more

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    General KLChurch's Avatar
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    Default mep 004a no fault lights working plus more

    Just bought an mep 004a and trying to start it up. At the control panel hit the run switch and no oil pressure light. No lights on the test switch also. The lift pump does not operate but I can jump it. I believe I can start the engine because there is a video of it running before I bought it. It was jumped at the lift pump. The video while running showed no fault lights. None of the gens electrical gauges where showing functional. But the engine gages were fine on the video. I installed a new watt transducer before a tried to start it because the old one was leaking tar. There were two wires loose at the bottom of the watt transformer that I donnot know if they need to be reconnected. The marking of one of the wires is 03ca18. Can not see the other wire marking. Can anyone out there make comments about this? Any help would be appreciated. Kris Church
    Murphy is my friend

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Scan_0001.pdfA1 is the Thermal Watt Converter. I assume that's what you mean by "Watt Transducer". If not, look next to what ever you are talking about, and find the A number. If it is A1, then remove all the wires and attach them IAW the above picture. The wire number you wrote in your post above, doesn't exist.

    Stop jumping things, as it just makes it harder to fix.

    "At the control panel hit the run switch and no oil pressure light." What oil light? There is a gauge, but no light. Or do you mean no Low Oil Pressure light on the A9, (fault indicator)?

    "No lights on the test switch also." This is the A9,( Fault indicator) I assume? If so, did you check the fuse on the A9 cover? If its missing, and it often is, the A9 will not operate. The gen set runs just fine without the A9. But it helps you find problems, so its nice when it works.

    "The lift pump does not operate but I can jump it." By lift pump, I assume you mean the B1 and B2, (two electrical fuel pumps) on the right side of the set. How do you mean "jump it"? By using the S7, (Battle short switch)? Or by using a jumper cable someplace else? You should be able to force the E1 and E2, (electric fuel pumps) to work by placing the S1, (start switch) in the Run position, and then placing the S7 in the up position. The pumps should come on, IF the Day Tank is empty, or almost full. They should come on in any case. When the tank is full and the FL1 and FL2, (Fuel Level Sender) causes the pumps to slow down and come to a stop.

    "The video while running showed no fault lights."
    Lights wont come on, if the fuse is missing or the A9 is bad.

    "None of the gens electrical gauges where showing functional. But the engine gauges were fine on the video." I assume you mean volts and hertz meter? That could be because the gen set is not putting out voltage. AC voltage drive both the AC volt and Hertz gauge.

    Lets start easy. The wire schematics are on the doors of the gen set, as well as in the TM's, (manuals) that are here in SS for you to download. Give us some answers to my questions, and then we can get you headed in the right direction.
    Last edited by Guyfang; 07-11-2019 at 15:26.

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    General KLChurch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guyfang View Post
    Scan_0001.pdfA1 is the Thermal Watt Converter. I assume that's what you mean by "Watt Transducer". If not, look next to what ever you are talking about, and find the A number. If it is A1, then remove all the wires and attach them IAW the above picture. The wire number you wrote in your post above, doesn't exist.
    My error the wire is D3CA18
    The new and old unit says it is a Watt Transducer, but yes it is the Thermal Watt Converter


    Stop jumping things, as it just makes it harder to fix.
    (Haven't jumped anything. The guy I bought it from did. He is 1500 miles from me)

    "At the control panel hit the run switch and no oil pressure light." What oil light? There is a gauge, but no light. Or do you mean no Low Oil Pressure light on the A9, (fault indicator)?
    Low oil pressure light does not come on when I switch to the run position on the (off- run-start 3 way switch).

    "No lights on the test switch also." This is the A9,( Fault indicator) I assume? If so, did you check the fuse on the A9 cover? If its missing, and it often is, the A9 will not operate. The gen set runs just fine without the A9. But it helps you find problems, so its nice when it works.
    The fuse is fine i tested it with a multi tester. No lights when I use the test reset switch. (with the other switch still in the run position)

    "The lift pump does not operate but I can jump it." By lift pump, I assume you mean the B1 and B2, (two electrical fuel pumps) on the right side of the set. How do you mean "jump it"? By using the S7, (Battle short switch)? Or by using a jumper cable someplace else? You should be able to force the E1 and E2, (electric fuel pumps) to work by placing the S1, (start switch) in the Run position, and then placing the S7 in the up position. The pumps should come on, IF the Day Tank is empty, or almost full. They should come on in any case. When the tank is full and the FL1 and FL2, (Fuel Level Sender) causes the pumps to slow down and come to a stop.
    I call it a lift pump because I thought that the pump that supplies the injection pump fuel is normally called a lift pump. The person who soled it to me only new diesels but not generators so he jumped the pump to get it started.
    When I placed the start switch in the run position and then turned on the battle switch the battle switch light turned on but no pump noise what I call the lift pump.

    "The video while running showed no fault lights."
    Lights wont come on, if the fuse is missing or the A9 is bad.
    (Fuse is good)

    "None of the gens electrical gauges where showing functional. But the engine gauges were fine on the video." I assume you mean volts and hertz meter? That could be because the gen set is not putting out voltage. AC voltage drive both the AC volt and Hertz gauge.
    Yes I mean the volts and hertz meter. This is what I saw on the video while the engine was running. I am afraid to start the gen If something is wrong. I can turn over the engine with the start switch but without the lift pump running and filling up the filters it will take a long time.


    Lets start easy. The wire schematics are on the doors of the gen set, as well as in the TM's, (manuals) that are here in SS for you to download. Give us some answers to my questions, and then we can get you headed in the right direction.
    I have downloaded the PDF manuals and starting to get acquanted to them.

    I am thinking to start with the Fault locating indicator and I see in the manual there is a testing procedure.

    I really need help and I appreciate your feed back. Please help me.
    Kris Church
    Murphy is my friend

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    General KLChurch's Avatar
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    Guyfang,

    I was able to see the schematic now and cannot see the wire number for N3. But I will check the rest.

    Thanks
    Murphy is my friend

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Ok. Let's get started. It's 24:30 here. Check the fuse in the fuse holder. Is it good. Mostly it's missing. Also, pull the lights out of the A9, to see if they are even there. Another item people like to steal. If the light bulbs are there, and the fuse is good, pull the A9 out, take off the side plate and see if the relay is in the socket.

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    That wire will be X12J18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Guyfang View Post
    That wire will be X12J18
    Will do both you suggested.
    I will report back when finished
    Thanks for the reply
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    OK, good night!

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    Guyfang

    Update


    A9 Fault indicator:

    All the lights are in A9. None missing.
    Fuse checked and was there in place. 1 amp and checked with multi meter.
    Pulled A9 out ready to check per the military manual procedures. ( Apply 24 volt to A+ and B- and use the Test or reset switch to see if all the lights come on)
    I have a 24 volt power supply coming in Saturday via Amazon to do this test.

    A1 Thermal Watt Converter:
    Rewired A1 to the Schematic.
    Some wires were not correct when i replaced A1
    Rechecked twice to make sure correct

    What do you think we need to do next?

    Regards,
    Kris
    Murphy is my friend

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    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLChurch View Post
    Guyfang

    Update


    A9 Fault indicator:

    All the lights are in A9. None missing.
    Fuse checked and was there in place. 1 amp and checked with multi meter.
    Pulled A9 out ready to check per the military manual procedures. ( Apply 24 volt to A+ and B- and use the Test or reset switch to see if all the lights come on)
    I have a 24 volt power supply coming in Saturday via Amazon to do this test.

    If you are careful, you can do this without a power supply. Hook up two leads to your batteries, or the slave recpt. Then touch them to Pins A & B. What I did was take spare pins out of an old C-Plug, and solder them to two wires. Heat shrink on the ends. Then stuck them on pins A&B. Then the wire to pin A hooked to Positive, pin B to Neg. In any case, its doable. If the lights do not come on, open up the box. See if the silver relay is in the socket.
    A1 Thermal Watt Converter:
    Rewired A1 to the Schematic.
    Some wires were not correct when i replaced A1
    Rechecked twice to make sure correct

    This is always the danger to getting a set from someone you don't know. What has this person done to it? Lots of people remove and tag wires, so its easy to re hook up. This is a big mistake, when you do not know whats happened before. If someone else made a mistake, you repeat it, when you tag wires. The only time I MIGHT do this is when I KNOW that its hooked up right to begin with. I trust no one. So I ALWAYS unhook wires, and re hook them by the schematic. By the way, the schematic for the 004A and 005A are the same. As the schematics are not real great, you can look at the 004 and 005 manuals, to find the best printable schematics. for all intents and purposes. You have seen a graphic example as to why you should always do it right. If nothing else, you KNOW the A1 is wired right now.

    What do you think we need to do next?

    You do not need the A9 to start or run the set. In the mean time, push in CB1 and put S1 in the run position. Flip up the S7, to battle short. Do you hear the B2 and B3 electric fuel pumps? If not, we need to find out why. Will the engine turn over with the S1?

    Regards,
    Kris
    .
    Last edited by Guyfang; 07-12-2019 at 13:40.

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