mep 004a no fault lights working plus more

KLChurch

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I will be checking the TB102-18 wires unattached, to the pumps unattached in an hour or two.
How do you detach the bulbs from the threaded part?
Kris
 

Guyfang

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Just pull them out. Hold the red bulb, then use a finger nail, or a small, tiny knife. See the small lip, just above the black part? Just pull it out. Sometimes they are a little hard to pull out, but it will come out. If you look at the picture in the -24P, you can see its two parts.

IMG_20190715_155151.jpg
 

KLChurch

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Checked the unattached wires from pump to pump wire for continuity. No continuity.
Checked the wires again with the TB102- 18 wires alligator clipped together and got continuity.
 

Guyfang

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I have never seen a S2 switch ever go bad on a mep-004A. You can check it IAW, (in accordance with) the TM, but I don't think that's it.

The S9 switch, (Overspeed switch) is the beer can looking thing on the left side front door. You took a nice picture of it that I would have attached, if I was at home. It has a small button on the top to push in to reset the switch. Yes put the SP relay box back in. Does it look like anyone has fooled with the A4 card inside the control panel? Loose wires? Is the front or back side showing a burn mark? That's were K1 is and that has to work, for power to go to the places you don't have power. When you have the SP relay box back in and hooked up. Push in CB1, and put the S2 in the run position. Then see if the TT, (hour meter) runs. It should have a little arm that goes around and make ticking noises. You can also just use a multimeter and see if it has power.
 

KLChurch

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Just checked the back of the dc breaker at the control box and the protective covers to the wires are discolored and cracking (little brittle). Maybe this is the culprit.
Kris
 

Guyfang

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Open the right rear door. Set your MM, (multimeter) to VDC. Then pull out the CB1, in the front of the Control cube. Then touch one lead to metal, (good ground, no paint). The other lead to the CB1, the side with only one wire. Should get 24 VDC. Then touch the side with two wires. Should get nothing. Then push the CB1 in. Then measure from ground to both sides of CB1. Should get 24 VDC on both sides.

That means there was a short someplace, and the CB didnt pop, or the short was before the CB.
 

Guyfang

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With CB1 pushed in, S2 in the run position, and the S7 in the bypass position, do the panel lights work? Is the S7 light, (DS7) on? If you push the S3, (main contactor close? You should hear a clunk. Does the Contactor close light, DS6 come on?
 

KLChurch

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While checking CB1 and the switch in pulled position I got 24v with the two wires and none with the one wire.
Kind of opposite what you said.
CB1 pushed in got 24v on both sides.
Kris
 

KLChurch

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I will check again on whether the lights on the fault indicator works now in one hour after i cool off. Man it is hot here. But the battle light lights up whether you push the battle light button also it will light up when you flip the toggle.
Kris
 

Guyfang

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Location
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With CB1 pushed in, S2 in the run position, and the S7 in the bypass position, open the control panel. Look at the A4 card. Use a MM set on VDC. One probe to good ground. The other on terminal 7. Get and VDC? Then put the probe on terminal 9. Any VDC? This is the K1 relay contact. If the K1 dosnt work right, you get no VDC to the fuel pumps, and IP.
 
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