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mep 004a no fault lights working plus more

KLChurch

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For the first time now I heard at least one pump working when in the run position with battle start on. Now no battle start light on when the switch is turned on and still no panel lights.
At least we are going forward.
kris
 

KLChurch

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Location
Montgomery/TX
The pumps so far ran for over five minutes. How long do you think they will run to fill up all the reservoirs? I'm reluctant to run the pumps over 5 minutes unless you say it will be OK.
Kris
 

Guyfang

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Now we are cooking with gas!! You can run the pumps for ever! When they slow down, that means the day tank float has come up, and slows them down. Try and start it! I am off to bed. Hold the start switch up long enough for the volt and frequency meters to come up, before letting go of it!
 

KLChurch

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Location
Montgomery/TX
OK, But at this time they have been running total 15 minutes and no slow down or stop. I will continue tonight but I think there is a lot of air in the lines and maybe needs bled. We will see tonight if they get slower. I think they are already slow and the air needs bled. Also i think the day tank is not filling up. The clicks on the pumps are around 3 clicks per second plus 2 minus nothing.
Kris
 

KLChurch

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Location
Montgomery/TX
This comes to the big unexplained question. Why does the pumps just now started working? Is it because the unit has been setting so long and me flipping the switches and they are knocking off the corrosion? We have not replaced anything. Murphy is laughing at me and I don't like it. Like I say he is a friend of mine.
Kris
 

Guyfang

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I think one of the C-plugs on the SP relay box wasn't on right. Or far enough down. Other then redoing the thermal watt converter, and removing and a bit of testing, then replacing the SP relay box, have you unhooked or done something? Panel lights might be burned out. Got to test and or inspect them. But they are not important. If the pumps are running, but the day tank is not filling up, we can fix that. You need to first pull out the filters in the bottom of the B2 and B3. Check that they are clean. Put an old rag under the pumps first. I case there is fuel in them, and in case you drop the parts. Then you need to check all the lines from the set tank, to the pumps. You may also need to add 5 Gal fuel. You man not have enough in the set tank.
 

KLChurch

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Location
Montgomery/TX
Im sorry I misspoke about the panel lights. The panel lights work, but the fault lights do not. will check the lines and if flowing I will try to start the engine in the couple of hours.
Kris
 

KLChurch

New member
475
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Location
Montgomery/TX
Tested the flow going to the injection pump by loosening the input line. Got flow. After a little while the pumps started running faster. Also I disconnected the top hose on the day tank that goes back to the main fuel tank and nothing came out. As soon as I install the ground rod I will try to start the engine.
Kris
 

KLChurch

New member
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Location
Montgomery/TX
Tried to start the engine 3 times for 15 secs at a time. It cranked pretty fast, but no start.
What would you advise? I can crack the output of the fuel injection pump to see if I get high flow. Also if you see in the video Chad put some jumpers to the fuel injection pump.
Will wait until you reply.
Kris
 

Guyfang

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The jumpers to the L1 are to open the solenoid, on the IP. What you need to do now, is have someone crank the engine, and you see if you have 24VDC on one of the terminals. Wire number P55X is ground. Wire number P80N is the positive wire. Lets see if you are getting voltage there.
 
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