mep 004a no fault lights working plus more

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Guyfang

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Sorry it took so long to come up. Need some info now. We need to find out where the set has voltage, and where not.

1. the pumps continue to run in the S2 run position?
2. tap the day tank. Is it filling up?
3. on the A4 card in the run position, do you have VDC on pin 7 and 9?

In the -34 TM, PDF reader page 201 is the test procedure for S2. Unhook the battery's first. Then take off the wires. Just the long ones. the jumpers, only need one end off. Do the test. If it passes, rehook the wires.

S2-2 wires P40T and P40S
S2-3 wires P45A and P45B
S2-5 wires P40T and P40U
S2-6 wires P47A
S2-11 wires P40S and P40R
S2-12 wires P43A
 

KLChurch

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The pumps only run when the battle switch is on. only tested this in run and battle on. Turn battle off pumps are off
Also you cannot crank the engine when the battle switch is on. Wont turn over the engine.
Will have to check the rest tomorrow.
Kris
 

Guyfang

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Kris,

It's normal to not be able to crank the engine in battle short.

There is something else we need to check, but first we need to know if the day tank is filling up, or empty.
 
Last edited:

Guyfang

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With all this pumping, there should be more then that in the tank.

Unscrew the P33, (C-plug for the fuel float switch). Take the float switch out of the tank. Carefully clamp the bottom of the rod in a vice. Then use your ohm meter to test pins A&B. You should have continuity, (closed contacts). Then test pins C&D. You should get closed contacts. Then test pins A&B again, But raise the top float all the way to the top. Should be open. Then test pins C&D again, but raise the lower float as far as it can go. Should be open.

If you have a new style float switch, it will have only one float. So you perform the same test, just start with C&D, and the float all the way down. Raise it slowly, (helps if someone is assisting you) and the meter should show you going from closed contacts, to open. Might be about 1-2 inches up (?) before the contacts open. Then, move your ohm meter contacts to the pins A&B. Move the float upwards, from the bottom to the top, and at some point near the top, the contacts will change from closed, to open. If this switch does not work like that, you need a new one.

Insert a paper clip in pins A&B of the J33 C-Plug. Then, use your multimeter in VDC. One lead to ground. The other lead to your jumper between pins A&B. Have your faithful assistant push the CB1 in, and place S2 in the run position. You should have 24 VDC on the meter. If not, tell your assistant to place the S7 in the up position. You should have VDC If no VDC, then we need to look someplace else. Do the same with J33-C&D pins.

OH, IF the pumps come on and run madly, it dosnt take real long to fill the tank up, if the pumps are picking up fuel. So do not turn it on, and then go for a beer.
 

KLChurch

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Having difficulty taking the float out of the day tank. Unscrewed the connector. Then unscrewed the four bolts that held in the other side of the connector, but it does not want to come out. Do I have to unscrew the approx 2 7/8 pipe thread to get the float out? If so it will take a long time and a lot of torque.
Kris
 

Chainbreaker

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I tried with a four foot cheater to unscrew the NPT pipe thread and it is still very difficult to unscrew. Got maybe a 20th of a turn.
Kris
When that happens use something like PB Blaster for a few hours or overnight to assist in penetrating stuck threads etc. to help free & reduce the friction. Even a few drops of light weight oil or diesel on the threads might help if you don't have any penetrating oil lying around. I've even resorted to using things like heat guns/hair dryers and ice cubes (expand the outer threads a few thousandth's and shrink the inner threads) when I need to break the friction bond.
 

KLChurch

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Ok so I will unscrew the NPT. I will let it soak over night. The best even better than BP blaster is 50% acetone and 50% automatic trans fluid. Cheaper too.
Kris
 

Guyfang

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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Having difficulty taking the float out of the day tank. Unscrewed the connector. Then unscrewed the four bolts that held in the other side of the connector, but it does not want to come out. Do not try and pull out the contacts! Yes you have to unscrew the 2 7/8 pipe threaded portion to get the float out. Do I have to unscrew the approx 2 7/8 pipe thread to get the float out? If so it will take a long time and a lot of torque.
Kris
View attachment Scan_0001.pdfHere is the picture. Its possible to do these tests with the float in the tank. BUT, if the fuel pumps are not able to fill up the tank, then the tests will not work. And I like to pull the float anyway, as often there are "surprises" in there. Like the floats have been ate up by JP8. Or the magnets have fallen out. Or "extra" floats are in the tank.
 

KLChurch

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Location
Montgomery/TX
Got her unscrewed. Inside looks clean. 3/4 full. However just for the **** of it I turned on the battle and run to get the pumps working and they started without the float installed. Also looked inside where the pump input line enters the day take. No fuel entering the tank. but when I drain the first filter the pumps go wild still no fuel to the day tank. Also I dont know if the float has to be installed with the wiring for the electrical valve to let the fuel to enter the day tank.
Kris
 
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