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Thread: Engine knocking LDS-456

  1. #21
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    Well that sure does suck. After I pick up a car this weekend I guess I'm gonna tear the heads off this hings and see just what happened

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  3. #22
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    The in-cab video has great sound. I can hear the knock. Darn it. No easy fix with a couple Viton O-rings.

    A few things to consider.

    • You can pull the heads, identify the damaged piston and liner, replace and button it up. And hope that was all there was to it. You will spend 350-500 bucks in piston, liner, gaskets and stuff.
    • You can do an in-frame refresh. Lift the front up on the frame (to get more clearance between axle and oil pan), heads off, oil pan off and you can get liners and pistons out. Liner and piston (NOS) sets you back $150 per hole (super cheap by diesel engine standards). If one liner grenaded, I'd be inclined to replace them all. A set of new main bearings (why...because you are in there) is about $80. Gasket set is around $250, new style head gaskets 2 x $80. It does add up. About $ 1500 - 2k with miscellaneous small stuff, like planing the heads, maybe a set of upgraded 12-point connecting rod bolts, odds and ends.


    I did rebuild my LDS because I wanted to do it. It did not make any "economic" sense. I agree with Jeepsinker.


    • You can get a good running takeout for half (or less) of what a rebuild costs you. The only time spent is getting the new motor, lifting the old donk out and putting the new one in.


    If you believe in "life-lemons-lemonade" - now is the time to upgrade to a good running LDS from a 5ton and enjoy 80 or so extra ponies. And a power steering upgrade is sooo convenient to do when the engine is out (if I had been smarter, that is).
    Last edited by cattlerepairman; 08-16-2019 at 21:47.
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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  5. #23
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    Ive looked around and there's not much for takeouts around here. Plus, it would be easier for me to rebuild it than lift that massive thing out and set in another with the limited tools and equipment I have on hand. Plus I enjoy that kinda stuff so I see it as more of a fun learning opportunity than a chore. And my truck has the LDS, right in the title lmao. It also has the air assist kit so PS isnt too high on my list. That and a few other upgrades, so in my eyes it's worth saving. If it was a bone stock truck I very likely would've posted it for sale the moment I realized the kinda bad news that knock means.

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  7. #24
    4 Star General Jeepsinker's Avatar
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    You would be money ahead looking into a Cummins swap. I have a complete video guide if you are interested. It will be more expensive than rebuilding your multifuel, but you won't be doing it again in 20,000 miles.
    I sink Jeeps... That is all
    1969 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 w/winch (Daily driver, no joke)
    Now a hot rod deuce: 6BT swap in progress, Waterloo overdrive, 2 micron fuel filtration installed, riding on 11.00r20s
    1971 M151A2 w/ ROPS
    3: 87' M35a2c Air Force trucks
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    I do Fort Polk and other recoveries in my state. I can be reached at 337-401-2470

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  9. #25
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    I've been watching your series on it. It's a cool idea but again, that much fabrication and work isn't something I'd b able to do with the space and supplies I have available. Plus this truck is more of a toy, I highly doubt I'll put enough miles on it to have to rebuild it for a very long time, if ever again
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  11. #26
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    LOL @ LDS. Yes, It was a little late when I wrote that
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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  13. #27
    Colonel Oerthedge21's Avatar
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    I started pulling parts off yesterday, got a bunch of the intake piping and stuff off. I'll keep the thread updated on my progress and what I find when the heads come off
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  15. #28
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    Picked up a car this weekend and finally got some spare time to get to work on the truck. I ordered an injector that I'm going to make a compression tester out of, in the meantime I've been stripping the topend down, since even if the pistons are somehow all good, it needs head gaskets since they both leak oil. Anyhow, I got the front valve cover off and in playing with the rockers I found this. That's way too loose right? And is there any way I can hope against hope that maybe one of these is so loose it was making that noise? Or would it just be a nasty valve tick? I'll keep tearing it down, and get a video up when I get the rear valve cover off as well.
    1968 M35A2C W/W
    1985 CUCV M1010 (Sold)

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  17. #29
    4 Star General cattlerepairman's Avatar
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    No, I don't think that is your problem. The valves do need adjusting, though.
    MVPA member. 1974 M35A2C w/w "Queen Lola", rebuilt LDS-465-1A, "D" turbo, Waterloo Overdrive upgrade. Med towbar, 11.00R20 Goodyear G286, flipped hubs, remote brake fluid reservoir, spin-on filters, bypassed FDC, LED taillights, LED headlights, LED turn signals, WESTACH EGT/boost gauge, AVM lockout hubs, LED convoy light, LED lollipop lights, HMMWV seat on air ride base, M211 dash passenger grab handle, hood lift kit, 24V solargizer/battery minder, ether start kit, flasher module mod, heavy duty dog bone ends, M35A3 aluminium fuel tank.

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  19. #30
    Colonel davidb56's Avatar
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    other things can cause a knock too. diesel fuel injector causing a engine knocking sound

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