LDS-465-1A inframe headgasket job pictures

Well, here we go. Time to get dirty. Head gaskets were slobbering real bad between heads. Probably close to 1/2 gallon a minute. Gonna see if we can't remedy that with a new set of gaskets. I would like to mention the fact that FreightTrain donated the gaskets to the cause. I could not find individual head gaskets anywhere, only complete gasket sets ranging from 270-900 dollars.

Moving on...

More pictures. I just wanted to add that I would have had both heads off by last night if I didn't have to make a special wrench for the short head nuts on the driver side. I'd like to get ahold of the engineer who thought that one up...

RE: Moving on...

Also would like to note that as expected the heads are cracked between valve seats. Valve seats are fine though. Pressure tested fine, not leaking from cooling jacket, or oil passages.

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Oh, yea...One more thing before I go back to it....I am not replacing the multifuel(gasoline)components as I only run diesel, so if there is an interest out there let me know...

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mightyhammer wrote:

Oh, yea...One more thing before I go back to it....I am not replacing the multifuel(gasoline)components as I only run diesel, so if there is an interest out there let me know...

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What "gasoline" components are your referring to?

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O.K. must need some schooling.....I was under the impression that the components between the intake and valve covers had something to do with the fuel density compensation system for different fuels. I know there is a way to bypass on the pump as well for diesel only. I had a deuce that was converted by the military to run on diesel only and these components were removed. I did notice that there was a type of spark plug attached to the intake port along with a fuel return line, I figured had something to do with heating up or igniting an incoming fuel charge to help initial combustion or something like that. I have not worked any major repairs on military engines before. I however have quite a bit of experience working on civilian commercial diesels. I did run the engine without the components on it and it cranked right up and ran fine in 58 degree weather.

RE: Moving on...

M35s must share the same monthly "cycle."

It just so happens that a friends Duece with supposedly only 17K on it started puking oil out in the same exact position and I'll be doing the repair. Yeah I'm gonna weld up a nice contraption for those pesky cyl. head nuts.

Thanks for the pics.

P.S. Question: I've heard that the "D" motors had an improved head gasket installed on them. Is there any truth to this statement or are they all the same?

Mightyhammer, Looks like your right on top of this problem. I suspect I may have to replace headgaskets on my 1970 deuce also. You mentioned your head had cracks between valve seats. What is the fix for this? Can it be welded or does it mean a new head? How did you test for leaks? Keep taking pictures as you go. How much mechanic experience do you have, just asking to gauge with mine(Very little exp.) to see if I can handle this type of repair.

rneely said:

Mightyhammer, You mentioned your head had cracks between valve seats. What is the fix for this? Can it be welded or does it mean a new head? How did you test for leaks? How much mechanic experience do you have, just asking to gauge with mine(Very little exp.) to see if I can handle this type of repair.

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First off, from what I gather...If there is not any leakage detected and the valve seat inserts are not cracked the heads are considered serviceable. If I were using this rig for serious work, I would replace the heads. I have different plug set ups from over the years of doing this, so I was able to pressure test them on my own. I imagine a good machine shop could do this for you as well. I have been a mechanic for 25 years. I would like it to be known, however, that I am not specifically a diesel engine specialist, I just have alot of experience working on them. For me, this job isn't a big deal. I imagine for someone without much experience it might seem daunting. I recommend you try it...Take your time, and alot of pix. You will need, or have to fabricate some special tools from time to time. This site is the most awesome resource you have, I would have seriously given my left testicle for a resource like this 20 years ago!The knowlege and experience I have encountered here is uncomparable elsewhere. I am sure you will do just fine. Don't hesitate to ask questions, no matter how silly they might seem...We have all been there.

Re: RE: Moving on...

No.2Diesel said:

M35s must share the same monthly "cycle."



P.S. Question: I've heard that the "D" motors had an improved head gasket installed on them. Is there any truth to this statement or are they all the same?

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I am not really sure about that one...I don't have alot of experience with the continental engines...I am going to coat my gaskets with permatex copper head gasket spray to help out. Other than that pray for a good hand, and follow the torque specs

The D motors had the latest revision gaskets put in WHEN THE ENGINE WAS MADE...

Since D engine production has stopped, there is a new "latest & greatest" gasket out there now. Has the rubber embedded in it in an outline arround the holes in the gasket. THATS THE ONE YOU WANT.

Thank you emmado22 for the clarification.

Yeah copper spray should help.

//Quote//
The D motors had the latest revision gaskets put in WHEN THE ENGINE WAS MADE...

Since D engine production has stopped, there is a new "latest & greatest" gasket out there now. Has the rubber embedded in it in an outline arround the holes in the gasket. THATS THE ONE YOU WANT.

//End Quote//


When I replaced my headgaskets 6 months ago I got the new style gasskets from Clark Truck in W.VA for $100 each

I have noticed/been told that OD Iron has complete gasket sets for around $270. If I was going to have to pay $100 each for the head gaskets I would just as soon get the whole gasket set for $70 more. I am pretty sure they are the newer style gaskets with the rubber imbedded around the galley holes. I have an older set of gaskets, but I have had luck in the past with the spray and making sure surfaces are sparkly clean and true. Follow torque specs and sequences to a "T". I think I will be alright...Trust me, ya'll be the first to know if they don't hold. If this don't work I will buy a whole set from OD Iron...COOP

Re: RE: Moving on...

mightyhammer said:

I did notice that there was a type of spark plug attached to the intake port along with a fuel return line

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That sounds like the intake manifold heater. It's a starting aid for cold weather, and it doesn't have anything to do with the diesel vs. multifuel stuff. My current deuce doesn't have the manifold heater, and has an ether kit installed instead. There was just a nice gaping hole where the spark plug used to be, with signs in the rust and dust where the piece of tape that somebody stuck over the hole fell off... I got a random spark plug with the same thread size at the local auto parts store to plug the hole. I haven't bothered to buy an ether bottle for this truck. It just never gets cold enough to need either the ether or flame heater here where I live.

The part that gets bypassed in a "diesel-only" conversion is the fuel density compensator, which is on the input side of the injection pump. Everything else is still the same, and should still be there.

Thanks for sharing these pictures, and keep 'em coming! Hmm, now I recall seeing a special head bolt wrench for the deuce on eBay once in a while... maybe I should get one in case either my deuce or 5-ton wrecker need new head gaskets someday...

Edited to add: Oh, and the other parts that you referred to are probably the flame heater components which sit up on top of the engine. There's a little fuel pump and some other parts. Again, they have nothing to do with the multifuelness of the engine.

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Ok now gears are turning.....I could plumb the flame ignition system into my exhaust stack....and have a flaming stack....I like that idea....he he he he

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Hmm, I think you'd get a lot more smoke than flame that way. Not that there's anything wrong with that...

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I would use gasoline for that project....Like the old timers used to do with hot rod exhaust.....They would have a spark plug plumbed into their exhaust tips somewhere and have a cylinder cut out switch so a cylinder or two would be pumping fuel into the exhaust then you hit the power to the plug in the exhaust and see the flames shoot out about 50 feet behind the car.....Wouldn't that look cool coming out of a revved out 5 ton stack goin' down the highway in the middle of the night?

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Hmm, that would look cool. I'd plumb in diesel, too, for the option of making smoke in the daytime.

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I purchased a special head bolt wrench off ebay about 6 mo ago. Just perfect for the head bolts on the side. I got too brutal with the wrench and broke it. Hope my weld will hold. If the engine is out there is room enough to use a box end wrench.