1953 “gasser” deuce build thread/ adventure

silverbullet72tnt

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Grabbed the generator and voltage regulator, the gauge cluster and also the three lever headlight switch and the taillights. The pulley was different, anyone got one they wanna sell?
 

SETOYOTA

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Free replacement running motor in ga. You would have to come get it but it’s free
 

silverbullet72tnt

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we put a bore scope in cylinders and they all look good, one had very light rust dots, barely visible to the eye, so Im hoping a little pb blaster in the hole and turn it over by hand itll free up.
 

silverbullet72tnt

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Lots of "PB Blaster" and time. Also don't use the starter to turn over the engine. Use a breaker bar and turn slowly. Back and forth, back and forth.
I put five cans into the cylinders last night, we tried rocking it in gear (very lightly with another vehicle) I'm going to keep spraying into the cylinders and wait a week or two and try with a bar on crank bolt. When I tried that the first time it tightened the bolt and I know enough to quit as soon as the bolt tightens even a little.

Ive read pb blaster, mystery oil, kerosene and ATF, what flavor of snake oil do you recommend?
 

Bulldogger

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I put five cans into the cylinders last night, we tried rocking it in gear (very lightly with another vehicle) I'm going to keep spraying into the cylinders and wait a week or two and try with a bar on crank bolt. When I tried that the first time it tightened the bolt and I know enough to quit as soon as the bolt tightens even a little.

Ive read pb blaster, mystery oil, kerosene and ATF, what flavor of snake oil do you recommend?
That much Blaster should free her up. Perhaps crank bearings are stuck too? Have you put anything in the crankcase to try to help free her up? I'd try Mystery Oil there to see what it might free up.

BDGR
 

silverbullet72tnt

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That much Blaster should free her up. Perhaps crank bearings are stuck too? Have you put anything in the crankcase to try to help free her up? I'd try Mystery Oil there to see what it might free up.

BDGR
Topped em off this morning with mystery oil. Keep em filled and see if it starts weeping down through...

Just filled crankcase/oil pan to the point where it ran out of front pan seal with a combo of oil, atf and PB blaster. Cylinders are filled to top with PB blaster and mystery oil. Now I wait.....
 
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Tracer

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I put five cans into the cylinders last night, we tried rocking it in gear (very lightly with another vehicle) I'm going to keep spraying into the cylinders and wait a week or two and try with a bar on crank bolt. When I tried that the first time it tightened the bolt and I know enough to quit as soon as the bolt tightens even a little.

Ive read pb blaster, mystery oil, kerosene and ATF, what flavor of snake oil do you recommend?
I've also used Rislone. If all else fails give it a shot. Rislone 2.jpg
 

silverbullet72tnt

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ITS FREE!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried rocking the truck in gear (with help) and it broke loose. motor rolls right over with crank bolt and ratchet now! Made a huge mess with all the oil/etc in the cylinders but I dont care its free!
 
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Bulldogger

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ITS FREE!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried rocking the truck in gear (with help) and it broke loose. motor rolls right over with crank bolt and ratchet now! Made a huge mess with all the oil/etc in the cylinders but I dont care its free!
Congratulations! And now the cleanup begins.... I don't envy that mess shooting out of the cylinders. But once it's all out and wiped clean, it should rotate fine, one would hope.

Bulldogger
 

silverbullet72tnt

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Congratulations! And now the cleanup begins.... I don't envy that mess shooting out of the cylinders. But once it's all out and wiped clean, it should rotate fine, one would hope.

Bulldogger
rotates smooth as butter. Gonna pull valve cover to make sure nothing wonky under there.

Anyone know if just the round spring is available for the door latch?
 

rustystud

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ITS FREE!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried rocking the truck in gear (with help) and it broke loose. motor rolls right over with crank bolt and ratchet now! Made a huge mess with all the oil/etc in the cylinders but I dont care its free!

Yep. "PB Blaster" and patience. You just needed time for the Blaster to work. I once had to wait over a week to free-up some rusted bolts on a injection pump I did not want to damage.
 

silverbullet72tnt

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Heres some pics of the critter now that its stopped raining for five minutes
30741270_1830969130259374_1654946178703294464_n.jpg30703871_1830968963592724_2300518293443706880_n.jpg30713716_1830968686926085_6245029142991994880_n.jpg30740085_1830969140259373_8765792470316351488_n.jpg30715150_1830968200259467_632184212052508672_n.jpg30715074_1830968516926102_4543571384755814400_n.jpg30742056_1830968073592813_4183492875826233344_n.jpg

The grill and radiator are just in front of truck on the ground, pulled them to get to crank bolt easier
 

rustystud

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Heres some pics of the critter now that its stopped raining for five minutes
View attachment 725671View attachment 725666View attachment 725667View attachment 725670View attachment 725669View attachment 725668View attachment 725672

The grill and radiator are just in front of truck on the ground, pulled them to get to crank bolt easier
While the front is off, just go ahead and remove the right front fender. That way you can pound out the dent easier. Looks rust free. That is half the battle on these older units. Actually if I where to do it again with mine, I would totally gut the cab, remove what can be removed (hood, fenders etc) and clean and paint it. I've wasted so much time working "around" everything that I could have totally rebuilt the cab three times over now ! When I get a new cab for my M211 build I will go that route.
 

silverbullet72tnt

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Alright, finally tracked down all the part numbers for the 12v ignition parts. Good news is, its got spark. Bad news: not alot of compression on a couple cylinders (4)

Two of em are at 85# or better cranking, the others range between 30-50#. I pulled valve cover and alot of the rockers and valve train are pretty rusty. I tried squirting oil into the low compression cylinders for retest, but difference was negligible.

I scoped the cylinders with a bore camera and it was all shiny and good looking before I started cranking it etc (while it was stuck). I'm thinking it was stuck in the valve train dept.

My thought is to pull the head, check all the valve seats etc, and atleast have a good look at the cylinder walls. Are these critters know for and head or block cracking that I should be aware of whilst looking around?

Any other Ideas on where to start poking deeper?

I have to admit, first thought on this truck was to swap a diesel in it, but Im kind of growing fond of the simplicity of the old gasser. And to be totally honest, if it drives 500 miles a year itll be alot. so I think itll do fine if I can save it
 
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