1986 CUCV M1009 Decade after being wrecked.

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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I am still hoping for my injection pump to be dropped off. I have lots of barn work to do but I would like to make a little progress on my M1009 this weekend also. If not I will be OK waiting. I have no choice. I can only control what I have in my control. Rushing the job will not make it better. it has come a long way. I am excited to get onto Little Red. Coming soon to this site.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Just like Christmas. My rebuilt injection pump is back. DSCF7418.JPG HAPPY. And this is the tag from the pump I sent. Before. DSCF7280.JPG and the tag has been removedDSCF7419.JPG and a new tag in place. Complete with a date which I like and is useful. You will be able to tell the truth about injection pump age. DSCF7420.JPG I will be up early and busy in the AM. I have a lot of barn work to do but will sneak this job in before breakfast. Take Care and Be Safe. More pictures will be posted for educational purposes.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
8,691
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Even the best plans have a few hiccups. I always say. "Plan the work. Work the plan" I never take into account others misfortunes and needs that come along and throw a wrench into the works. All ended well this far. The injection pump is installed and the system is ready. As I started the day the M1009 was sitting with a cover over the engine. Just as I left it 5 weeks ago. DSCF7421.JPGDSCF7422.JPGI installed the injection lines and I noticed the pin thru the shaft to the VCR was missing. Not a big deal. I installed one. DSCF7423.JPG I also have very few that just slip right in place but this one went right in and attached to the gear first time no turning required. DSCF7424.JPG As always the hardest part is getting the injection lines back into the holders as they are supposed to be. Many I have seen have no holders just lines. I guess that part was to hard to reinstall. I have a tip. Clean the plates really well and use a dab of grease or Vaseline to help slide them into place and get the installed. Also an area that is always fudged up is the area where the fuel lines enter the valley. That holder is always mangled or missing. I move the ground back to the coolant closeout plate and install a stud to hold the ground cable. Works out easier and less to fuss with in that busy area. DSCF7425.JPG New bracket ready to be set in place in place. DSCF7426.JPG Spacer in place.DSCF7427.JPGnew bracket correctly in place and holding the fuel lines. Keep the hose clamp clocked away from the upper line to avoid wear and a potential leak. Everything in place and ready to get started. I cranked it a few revolutions and left it set till the next time I get to work on it. I fixed pressure washers, lawn mowers, chain saws, and several other projects that the family brought to me thinking I was bored and looking for something to do. It will all work out. That fuel pressure on the system will help push the air out. I was alone at final assembly and didn't want to crank more then needed to bleed all the air out. Can't see the fuel from the drivers seat. take Care and Be Safe. It is a bit dusty but that will be fine. DSCF7428.JPG
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
8,691
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have the truck running now. I am in tricky territory for me. I time my CUCV line to line. I have this one on line and it seems like it smokes a bit more than it should. I will take it and get it timed if needed bit before I do that I want to ask which way do I crank it from the front of the truck? Do I go towards the drivers side or the passengers side with the line? It sounds great and has power. I think it may be retarded a bit it idles like a race car. Any ideas. I am going to be looking. But it runs great and sounds great also. Be Safe and Take Care. I had a very busy weekend brushed 3 gallons of oil base paint on my barn, tuck pointed 1/2 of the stone foundation. Last time I done the foundation was 1995. Very calm and peaceful work.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
OK so survey says to move the injection pump line 1/8" towards drivers side and go from there. It sounds great and easy enough to me. I will report back later. No one ever answers my legitimate questions here. if I would want to do a lift kit, electrical bypass or and axle swap everyone has ideas. Fair enough. Silence is educational for me and it provides opportunity for me to learn. Thank you. Take Care and Be Safe.
 

Lostforwords

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Location
Ventura, CA
OK so survey says to move the injection pump line 1/8" towards drivers side and go from there. It sounds great and easy enough to me. I will report back later. No one ever answers my legitimate questions here. if I would want to do a lift kit, electrical bypass or and axle swap everyone has ideas. Fair enough. Silence is educational for me and it provides opportunity for me to learn. Thank you. Take Care and Be Safe.


If it was computer or technology related you know I would get you back but. M1009 is all fresh to me. Sorry boss.
 

Sezzo

Member
27
45
13
Location
Bavaria (Germany)
OK so survey says to move the injection pump line 1/8" towards drivers side and go from there. It sounds great and easy enough to me. I will report back later. No one ever answers my legitimate questions here. if I would want to do a lift kit, electrical bypass or and axle swap everyone has ideas. Fair enough. Silence is educational for me and it provides opportunity for me to learn. Thank you. Take Care and Be Safe.
If we had the knowledge we would share it with you of course 😊 but it is almost impossible to keep up with your expert level.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
8,691
1,447
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
OK after loosening the 3 flange nuts I was able to use a small pry bar and adjust the injection pump 1/8" toward the drivers side. the smoke ceased and the engine smoothed out more. Perfect. I tightened the bolts and took it for a ride. Now was the time to make a visit to the auto parts store and get the new alternator belts, Both fit nice and tight and I used the socket to turn the alternator to get the belts on. This was the winning combination. DSCF7429.JPGDSCF7430.JPGRight Generator 2 all tight and plenty of adjustment. Not 3/4 of the way out. DSCF7431.JPGLeft Generator 1 also nice tight belt. No more squealing at start up. I mean the belts were 13 years old. After all new belts we went on a road trip. 35 miles. Hopped on I 81 for 1 exit and came back thru Indiantown Gap and stopped for some ice cream. The truck runs awesome and I still have to get an alignment, transmission shift vacuum module adjusted and am going to pay for a Pennsylvania State safety Inspection just so another set of eyes get a look at everything. Every where I was in it I had a few thumbs up and comments on the old truck. Always questions. It was out on the road running perfect. If everything goes as planned it will be on the Pacific coast by August. Thank you for looking. I have a few things to iron out details. I need to attach a jack and tire tool set in the truck. I am thinking under the hood out of the cab. Hate that rattle trap setup. I will have to coordinate that with the buyer. I had a great time on this build and have another build in store ready to occupy the shop. 2 more M1009's and I am retiring from it. Be Safe and Good LuckDSCF7432.JPG
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
8,691
1,447
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Rick I believe 1/8" may be a little too far. I found my 6.2's sweet spot just to the driver's side, maybe the thickness of the line.
I was a bit weary also. I never put an injection pump on either side of the line. I always aligned it on the line to line. I did this install line to line and thought it smoked and burnt my eyes in my shop. I called Diesel Care and spoke with them. They said the 1/8" towards drivers side. I am NOT a specialist in injection pumps. I do not wish to step into areas I have no experience. I am willing to learn. I can do many things and choose which I do and which I pay to have done. The fine tuning I let up to professionals. Things on this project I didn't do myself. I sent to competent businesses and paid to have done.
1.) Resurface and recondition heads and valves.
2.) New Leaf springs (Stock height) I installed
3.) Rebuilt alternators and starter
4.) Rebuilt transmission and transfer case
5.) Replace inner axle seals on front axle
6.) Windshield replacement
7.) Injection pump rebuilt
8.) Rotors resurfaced
9.) Frame sand blasted and coated
10.) Transmission shift points adjusted checked
11.) Front end alignment
12.) Pennsylvania Safety Inspection. ( Pure Safety Reason)

I do a lot of dirty hard work and can replace / repair lots of parts. Somethings I am NOT 100% sure of and feel comfortable letting someone I know and trust do that work. I have been doing automotive/truck all my life and know a hack shop from a competent shop. So I am not a guy that thinks he knows it all. I turn away a lot of work after I see how hacked and chopped the vehicles are. I choose to involve myself or NOT. I feel I have built a reliable vehicle and have tried to not overlook any of the details. I would drive it and feel proud that it was built in my barn. Born in a Barn would be a good name for this build. Have a Great Day and Be Safe. Take Care.
 

Sezzo

Member
27
45
13
Location
Bavaria (Germany)
I was a bit weary also. I never put an injection pump on either side of the line. I always aligned it on the line to line. I did this install line to line and thought it smoked and burnt my eyes in my shop. I called Diesel Care and spoke with them. They said the 1/8" towards drivers side. I am NOT a specialist in injection pumps. I do not wish to step into areas I have no experience. I am willing to learn. I can do many things and choose which I do and which I pay to have done. The fine tuning I let up to professionals. Things on this project I didn't do myself. I sent to competent businesses and paid to have done.
1.) Resurface and recondition heads and valves.
2.) New Leaf springs (Stock height) I installed
3.) Rebuilt alternators and starter
4.) Rebuilt transmission and transfer case
5.) Replace inner axle seals on front axle
6.) Windshield replacement
7.) Injection pump rebuilt
8.) Rotors resurfaced
9.) Frame sand blasted and coated
10.) Transmission shift points adjusted checked
11.) Front end alignment
12.) Pennsylvania Safety Inspection. ( Pure Safety Reason)

I do a lot of dirty hard work and can replace / repair lots of parts. Somethings I am NOT 100% sure of and feel comfortable letting someone I know and trust do that work. I have been doing automotive/truck all my life and know a hack shop from a competent shop. So I am not a guy that thinks he knows it all. I turn away a lot of work after I see how hacked and chopped the vehicles are. I choose to involve myself or NOT. I feel I have built a reliable vehicle and have tried to not overlook any of the details. I would drive it and feel proud that it was built in my barn. Born in a Barn would be a good name for this build. Have a Great Day and Be Safe. Take Care.
Just remember how this M1009 looked like back in 2017.......! Rick: 100 points.

1592317361069.png
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
8,691
1,447
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
And then just like that the barn was empty. DSCF7458.JPGDSCF7459.JPGI made my rounds today in the M1009. I went to the Chevrolet dealership and visited a few of my friends. I have a few more weeks and I will be filling the garage with another project. I dropped the M1009 off at the alignment shop. Driving a CUCV again after driving my new truck is like a differnce between night and day. "Built in a Barn" is my new trademark. 104652370_3581563398525774_4567282818773785013_nOld Man and his toy.jpg
 
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