20 ft shipping container and M1078

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rockDAWG

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Has anyone fitted a 20' container on an M1078? I'm not sure if the container is too heavy after I finish the outfit of the living quarter. Just looking for options. I was thinking to use a communication shelter, but it seems too short.

look forward to hearing your input. Thanks.
 

rockDAWG

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Guess you do not realize that the container is only 11in shorter than the whole truck ?
I was planning to add an 18- or 24" extension to the frame and chop off whatever I don't need from the container. Just in a planning stage, adjust as I gain more knowledge. The real concern is the container weight.

 

simp5782

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Truck is only rated for 2.5 tons payload. Empty 20ft connex weighs 2.5tons.

This unit here had 2ft added to it and no where near a connex length.

Go with aluminum box or a 5 ton truck

 

Ronmar

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Yea, containers are a little heavy, even cut down to fit. You will also be pretty high... Have you looked for a box truck box? Much lighter and more appropriately built for this IMO...
 

rockDAWG

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Yea, containers are a little heavy, even cut down to fit. You will also be pretty high... Have you looked for a box truck box? Much lighter and more appropriately built for this IMO...
Yes, I will. I will try very hard not to shell out the money to get a box from Total Composite. We will see.
 

chucky

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I put a 20 ft on my 1083 but i started with the front of the box about 5 or 6 inches behind the cab measured down from roof edge to 7 ft drew a line and cut 17 ft from the front straight back left the last 3 ft or rear box drug the floor out from under the container backed the 1083 under it and went to welding after it was burnt in all the way around to the bed i dovetailed the back of the box and shortend the doors so i figured i droped alot of weight leaving the bottom 18 inches and that heavy floor of the container on the ground. The box as is probly 2 to 2500 lbs but to put that on a single axle would be too much imho.
 

coachgeo

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The closed? end of a trashed shipping container cut off from the rest of it till it is just the frame from that end ... then lowered a good bit... might make a good start for a ROP? or both ends for exo skeleton around flimsy-ish box from uhaul, mail truck etc.
 

chucky

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The closed? end of a trashed shipping container cut off from the rest of it till it is just the frame from that end ... then lowered a good bit... might make a good start for a ROP? or both ends for exo skeleton around flimsy-ish box from uhaul, mail truck etc.
???? please explain further
 

coachgeo

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???? please explain further
"might be too narrow? would take lot of cut and welding .... but that is your time if you can do it. cut at black and yellow. Move top (yellow) down to cap black front wall section. Overall height few inches above cab height. Section off bottom or top rail from elsewhere on box to top the down sloped sides though honestly buying some iron for that would probably be best. A chunk of the corrugation wall cut out and fited sideways (corrugation crossing) along inside front wall for strength in that direction.. why.... strength is in the corrugation mostly. vertical offers down strength... horizontal section of corrugated wall added in would offer strength sideways if truck plopped on ts side. ? Just a wild guess of an idea. Others may pipe in and shoot the container ROP idea full of holes.

or buy the start of a ROP behind my cab shown in the Avitar.
web3-1-1000x750.jpg
 

ramdough

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If you can, I suggest a purpose built box.

Aside from already existing, I see no benefit. They are heavy, the walls are not flat, they are heavy, the doors don’t like any torsion, they are heavy, a lot of them are rust buckets, they are heavy. Your truck is not the right size for those boxes.

If you have the skills to convert a box to a camper, you have the skills to make a lighter, stiffer, better option.

Just my opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Reworked LMTV

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I have been working on a design like this for about 2 years. You can do this, but you need to ONLY use the frame. Discard the core 10 sides, top and bottom. Replace with foam care FRP. If you are serious, chat on over to the Overlanding site. I am working with an Italian Manufacturer of fiberglass panels that Bliss uses. We may be able to do a group buy of panels to mount to a Dow foam core (specialty board).
 

chucky

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"might be too narrow? would take lot of cut and welding .... but that is your time if you can do it. cut at black and yellow. Move top (yellow) down to cap black front wall section. Overall height few inches above cab height. Section off bottom or top rail from elsewhere on box to top the down sloped sides though honestly buying some iron for that would probably be best. A chunk of the corrugation wall cut out and fited sideways (corrugation crossing) along inside front wall for strength in that direction.. why.... strength is in the corrugation mostly. vertical offers down strength... horizontal section of corrugated wall added in would offer strength sideways if truck plopped on ts side. ? Just a wild guess of an idea. Others may pipe in and shoot the container ROP idea full of holes.

or buy the start of a ROP behind my cab shown in the Avitar.
View attachment 796656
I see what your saying coach its a fresh idea and thats what makes this place so good to bounce ideas off each other . What if you just cut the box like iwas talking about but cut it down to be 6 ft above your original bed on your truck which would make you 11 ft tall ? I used what they call a one triper the container was 3 mo old when i bought it and to start your box for 2500 bucks with that much strength and be 2500 lbs or less when finished for just the structure and i would put one of these boxes against any of these smooth walled light box builds . I guess if your going to drive your truck in a desert setting only i could see some advantages to the light builds but if you go in the woods with trees that 500 to 750 lb differance will be what keeps those limbs and such from sticking right through those light aluminum or plastic walls and what if you wind up on your side thats gona tell the truth about your build when you set it back on its wheels. Like the old saying goes [CHROME WONT GET YOU HOME] I like to live by the other one [HELL FOR STOUT AND NEAT AS YOU CAN] Were already starting with 17 to 19 thousand pound trucks who are we kidding we know the limitations of these rigs and i bet the next one all of us build will be much better than our first one LOL IMHO
 

Reworked LMTV

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I see what your saying coach its a fresh idea and thats what makes this place so good to bounce ideas off each other . What if you just cut the box like iwas talking about but cut it down to be 6 ft above your original bed on your truck which would make you 11 ft tall ? I used what they call a one triper the container was 3 mo old when i bought it and to start your box for 2500 bucks with that much strength and be 2500 lbs or less when finished for just the structure and i would put one of these boxes against any of these smooth walled light box builds . I guess if your going to drive your truck in a desert setting only i could see some advantages to the light builds but if you go in the woods with trees that 500 to 750 lb differance will be what keeps those limbs and such from sticking right through those light aluminum or plastic walls and what if you wind up on your side thats gona tell the truth about your build when you set it back on its wheels. Like the old saying goes [CHROME WONT GET YOU HOME] I like to live by the other one [HELL FOR STOUT AND NEAT AS YOU CAN] We already starting with 17 to 19 thousand pound trucks who are we kidding we know the limitations of these rigs and i bet the next one all of us build will be much better than our first on LOL IMHO
Everyone has a different goals and constraints. No one is necessarily wrong about their build type. Not worth arguing. Similar goals = similar builds.
 

LilXerx

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I have been working on a design like this for about 2 years. You can do this, but you need to ONLY use the frame. Discard the core 10 sides, top and bottom. Replace with foam care FRP. If you are serious, chat on over to the Overlanding site. I am working with an Italian Manufacturer of fiberglass panels that Bliss uses. We may be able to do a group buy of panels to mount to a Dow foam core (specialty board).

would really like to discuss this more with you. I just picked up a 2003 m1085 that has a 20ft flatbed on it currently. Trying to figure out best option for putting shipping container on the back. Thinking i could sit it lower if i removed the flatbed and created a 3 or 4 point mounting system for the container on the frame rails.
 

rockDAWG

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I have been working on a design like this for about 2 years. You can do this, but you need to ONLY use the frame. Discard the core 10 sides, top and bottom. Replace with foam care FRP. If you are serious, chat on over to the Overlanding site. I am working with an Italian Manufacturer of fiberglass panels that Bliss uses. We may be able to do a group buy of panels to mount to a Dow foam core (specialty board).
After some serious considerations and looking at my own limitation, I am leaning towards using composite panels. Of course, I still have many questions about how to design the box for our use, particularly how to install a lift for bike and spare tire. Can the Box support the mount or I need to have an external frame, etc? Both Total Composite (BC) and GXV (Springfield, MO) sell their panels to DIYers. If you think you may be able to buy the panel from another source, I would like to learn more about it.

Recently I also received a few samples of the panel from a company in VA called Carbon-Core. There are some options here, some have more experiences than others in supporting the expedition vehicle community. However, they come with an expensive price tag.
 

Reworked LMTV

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You will need to do a lot of homework to start building an FRP boxes. There is a LOT of science behind them. For you, I would suggest that you contact this guy. Nice Build.

 

rockDAWG

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Thanks for the heads up. I will check out the link. :)

I love science particularly in R&D, have been making a living using my brain all my life. LOL. WIll be retired from my current position as a Chief Scientific Officer very soon. Damn, I will be lonely. :D
 
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