20 ft shipping container and M1078

NEIOWA

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The boxes are ONLY "strong" vertical load. Designed to be stacked with strong corner posts to support many above. Fill in the area between the corners with tinfoil.
 

rockDAWG

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Is the OP still thinking of this or has he been persuaded to either get a bigger truck or do a lighter/smaller box?


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The shipping container box is no GO. I don't need a bigger truck, M1078 is big enough for me. Currently leaning to get a composite box kit or a ready-made box. I do prefer to put it together for myself; the journey is equally rewarding as the destination.
 

ramdough

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The shipping container box is no GO. I don't need a bigger truck, M1078 is big enough for me. Currently leaning to get a composite box kit or a ready-made box. I do prefer to put it together for myself; the journey is equally rewarding as the destination.
I think that was a wise choice. You probably will appreciate it more once you get all of the details done.


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rockDAWG

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Love to see more close up pics of your pass-thru. I assume you that you use a bellows or something ready-made?

TIA
 

LilXerx

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Carnation, WA
The shipping container box is no GO. I don't need a bigger truck, M1078 is big enough for me. Currently leaning to get a composite box kit or a ready-made box. I do prefer to put it together for myself; the journey is equally rewarding as the destination.
I like the idea of building my own panels like the guy Reworked LMTV mentioned because of the cost of the pre manufactured panels being so high. The rear door for dirt bike becomes more of a technical challenge to build though.
 

PFH

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Kona, Hawaii
Love to see more close up pics of your pass-thru. I assume you that you use a bellows or something ready-made?

TIA
I bought 12 feet of the bellows gasket. I found some metal trim behind the shop and made two square frames to attach the gasket, one for the cab and the other for the box. The box side frame is attached permanently and the cab side is removable, to be able to raise the cab when necessary. The pass thru had to be high on the box side so I built a “wedge“ shaped roof addition on the cab. The pass thru in the cab is thru the roof and top corner of the wall. The pass thru door swings up and latches to the ceiling to hold it open. The rest of the space between the old roof and the new one we’ll be storage. Soon, I’ll be able to get back to sound deadening to cab.
BC4B24A8-7B0E-4929-9E57-30A301EA4A64.jpeg8FD89DEB-741E-4D20-A37B-3A62AFE656B0.jpeg
 

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ramdough

Active member
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Location
Austin, Texas
I bought 12 feet of the bellows gasket. I found some metal trim behind the shop and made two square frames to attach the gasket, one for the cab and the other for the box. The box side frame is attached permanently and the cab side is removable, to be able to raise the cab when necessary. The pass thru had to be high on the box side so I built a “wedge“ shaped roof addition on the cab. The pass thru in the cab is thru the roof and top corner of the wall. The pass thru door swings up and latches to the ceiling to hold it open. The rest of the space between the old roof and the new one we’ll be storage. Soon, I’ll be able to get back to sound deadening to cab.
View attachment 801204View attachment 801206
Why so high?

I was thinking of doing something similar, but so I can almost walk through it.

Are you concerned about your cab strength? That corner frame piece I think is important.


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coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
Why so high?

I was thinking of doing something similar, but so I can almost walk through it.

Are you concerned about your cab strength? That corner frame piece I think is important.


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you can almost walk right thru with a good size door if you do the thru behind the passenger seat instead of center as is usually done. (where spare tire is) Lot more movement between box and cab there though?? With any pass thru .... on these trucks esp, you got to reinforce the cab with a lot of wisely placed new structural members. (where will it go in an accident.... would it go thru co-pilots head orr?)

if you plan to sit only a copilot ... maybe you can get a seat that lays all the way backward so one can crawl over backrest when it is laying flat.... then sit. before tilting it back up.? or just sit them in gunner seat; taking passenger seat by door completely out, leaving that area free to easily walk/crouch between cab and camper box and make it easy for co-pilot to get in their seat?
 

rockDAWG

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I like the idea of building my own panels like the guy Reworked LMTV mentioned because of the cost of the pre manufactured panels being so high. The rear door for dirt bike becomes more of a technical challenge to build though.
Building panels ourselves do have advantage besides cutting cost down, we can incorporate any internal support as needed. Time is an issue along another layer of logitistics. I will keep the option open. I think lots of composite panels come form China, I can build an internal aluminium frame for added strength. I need to think it through.
 

rockDAWG

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
86
25
18
Location
Delaware
I bought 12 feet of the bellows gasket. I found some metal trim behind the shop and made two square frames to attach the gasket, one for the cab and the other for the box. The box side frame is attached permanently and the cab side is removable, to be able to raise the cab when necessary. The pass thru had to be high on the box side so I built a “wedge“ shaped roof addition on the cab. The pass thru in the cab is thru the roof and top corner of the wall. The pass thru door swings up and latches to the ceiling to hold it open. The rest of the space between the old roof and the new one we’ll be storage. Soon, I’ll be able to get back to sound deadening to cab.
View attachment 801204View attachment 801206
Interesting appoach!!! I love to follow your build and the final product.

My thinking was to build two pass-thru doors. There will be no bellows. This may reduce the complexity of the build and cutting down the noise from the bellows.
 

PFH

Member
33
2
8
Location
Kona, Hawaii
The door needed to be that high due to the floor plan i wanted. The 150gallon water tank is almost centered over the frame in the box next to the cab, then the bed is over that, then the pass thru is right above the bed.
I‘m adding reinforcing, a spreader bar will be added under the door, from corner to corner and secured to the back wall.
I should probably start another thread about my truck, so I don’t clutter up this one with my junk.
 

ramdough

Active member
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Location
Austin, Texas
The door needed to be that high due to the floor plan i wanted. The 150gallon water tank is almost centered over the frame in the box next to the cab, then the bed is over that, then the pass thru is right above the bed.
I‘m adding reinforcing, a spreader bar will be added under the door, from corner to corner and secured to the back wall.
I should probably start another thread about my truck, so I don’t clutter up this one with my junk.
Please do....want to follow the build.


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