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37X12.5X16.5 HUMMER Wheels M1008?

ODdave

New member
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Location
lansing michigan
1. You'd have to get enough height clearance for the wheels
2. Wheel spacers with 6 bolt to 8 bolt adaptors
Someone else would have to weigh in on how much spacing you would need
If you need the wheels and tires try MILITARYOFFROADTIRES.NET - We're declaring war on high tire prices! Good stuff
I dunno, A budy of mine drove down there (he is from MI) to buy a bunch of wheels/tires. Whan he got there they didnt have any. The guy running it had promised him they where in stock.....2cents
 
71
0
6
Location
Bloomsburg/PA
Just put a set on my scottsdale today. I got 6 inch lift, they are a step down from my michelin 385/75/16s but for the price i'll deal with it. got em from trail worthy fab didn't have any problems with em. Was goin to run the military bead locked rims but decided to just go with a set of steel rims from ntwonline.com was debating running the treadwright recaps too but the price for the surplus tires cant be beat.
 

Matt65

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Location
Alabama
Whats the bare minimum lift you absolutely would have to do to run the 12b H1 rims and take-off radials?
0" - By cutting the fender.
4" - On the M1008.

What CUCV do you have? Adding your vehicles to your signature is a good thing.
 

bshupe

New member
440
4
0
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
0" - By cutting the fender.
4" - On the M1008.

What CUCV do you have? Adding your vehicles to your signature is a good thing.
Hey Matt65. I currently have an M1031 but it will be getting reassigned to 1028 status and the contact box will be becoming a trailer.

Thanks for the follow up on the lift. Im not opposed to lifting I just dont have any reason to do it other than adding the tires which is mainly for the highway gearing and for the utility of having split rims so Im trying to minimize any of that.

What if anything do you think I would gain in adding the zero rates and moving the front axle forward? Id rather not cut the fenders but I might prefer that to a 4" lift. Moving the axle forward seems like it would make a pretty big improvement in clearance around the rear corner.

Thanks for your encouragement to change my avatar. Your right, I should get a good photo of the 1031 and put it up there.
 

Matt65

New member
532
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Location
Alabama
What if anything do you think I would gain in adding the zero rates and moving the front axle forward? Id rather not cut the fenders but I might prefer that to a 4" lift. Moving the axle forward seems like it would make a pretty big improvement in clearance around the rear corner.

Thanks for your encouragement to change my avatar. Your right, I should get a good photo of the 1031 and put it up there.

I only did 4" springs in the front. I do get off road some, and have never had any problems hitting the fender. Keep in mind that my wheels are narrow and pull the tires in. See M1008 Link in Signature. If off road a lot I would certainly look at the Zero Rates. Like you said they add more clearance and help with the approach angle as well. I used blocks for the rear, but would concider a shackle lift using my factory springs if off road more often. I was basicly after a cheap way to lower engine speed @ 55MPH.

Your Picture Avatar is OK. But you can list your truck in your Text signature by Clicking User CP above, top left. Then click Edit signature about mid way down the left column under Settings and Options.

My Signature currently says:
said:
1985 M1008: 4" Lift, 37" Hummer tires.
2006 TDi

CUCV TMs
 
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bshupe

New member
440
4
0
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
Im after the cheap RPM reduction as well. I do get off road pretty frequently in the summer but it is almost always logging or forest service roads that are at least somewhat maintained.

I am likely going to do the gear vendor as well.

Also, from a BOV angle, the split rims are very attractive and the price of the tires is very good.
 

bshupe

New member
440
4
0
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
No lift with hummer wheels and tires! 2" billet spacers in front!
I like it! It looks like the drivers fender is bent in slightly from a hard rub at some point? If this is the case, do you think the zero rates and sliding the axle forward that available inch would eliminate that?

Do you or anyone else know how the wheel spacers impact payload capacity? Do the spacers have any load rating themselves?

Thanks for posting these pics. They're just what the doctor ordered!

Bob
 
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Matt65

New member
532
3
0
Location
Alabama
Ive got H1 rims with the 37"s. Ended up lifting about 4" still had to trim the fenders a bit

I noticed your tread direction on the passenger side is reversed, and the driver side the same direction as mine.

Do you prefer one over the other? What improvements have you noticed? When I rotate them next I may reverse mine with the mouth of the V pulling like your passenger side.
 

Attachments

ryan77

Well-known member
2,584
56
48
Location
Cary IL
I like it! It looks like the drivers fender is bent in slightly from a hard rub at some point? If this is the case, do you think the zero rates and sliding the axle forward that available inch would eliminate that?

Do you have the spacers front and rear or just front?

Do you or anyone else know how the wheel spacers impact payload capacity? Do the spacers have any load rating themselves?

Thanks for posting these pics. They're just what the doctor ordered!

Bob
I had to trim the fenders and bend them a little! No rubbing yet!
 

bshupe

New member
440
4
0
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
I noticed your tread direction on the passenger side is reversed, and the driver side the same direction as mine.

Do you prefer one over the other? What improvements have you noticed? When I rotate them next I may reverse mine with the mouth of the V pulling like your passenger side.
Isnt the way the passenger side is the "right" way to have them all the way around?
 
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