5 ton fuel tank selector valve cleaning/rebuild

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Csm Davis

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Where would I be able to find a "hose supplier" ?
I get mine at the local hydraulic repair place.
Also folks you really do need to replace the rubber hose on any 8.3 and 250 cummins as they are a vacuum system up to the motor. I have seen hundreds of trucks that lines look good but when pressurized leaked like the were made of screen.
 
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Andrmorr

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Where would I be able to find a "hose supplier" ?
I'm working on a solution for the A2 crowd now. My truck is a M930A2 which has the duel tanks and I'm replacing all my fuel lines to prevent future problems. As I have the hose shop build each line they are mapping it out so they would be able to reproduce it by name...example (the passenger side return line). I will post the info once I'm done. I thought it might be helpful if they offer it in a kit form for those going to do a recovery since old leaking fuel lines seem to be a common cause of no starts. Knowing I was going to replace the fuel lines anyway, I would have liked to get the fuel line kit ahead of time to solve any issues on the trip. Let me know if this is something of interest to anyone and I can get them to make it more of a priority.
 

Jeep Nasty

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I'm working on a solution for the A2 crowd now. My truck is a M930A2 which has the duel tanks and I'm replacing all my fuel lines to prevent future problems. As I have the hose shop build each line they are mapping it out so they would be able to reproduce it by name...example (the passenger side return line). I will post the info once I'm done. I thought it might be helpful if they offer it in a kit form for those going to do a recovery since old leaking fuel lines seem to be a common cause of no starts. Knowing I was going to replace the fuel lines anyway, I would have liked to get the fuel line kit ahead of time to solve any issues on the trip. Let me know if this is something of interest to anyone and I can get them to make it more of a priority.
I'm interested and would take 2 full sets, ASAP
 

Andrmorr

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Here's a pic of the type work my guy can do. They are able to retain the military hose ends if you give them your old one which I was very interested in...so don't let the hose shop in your area tell you it can't be done...I'm still working on mapping the fuel lines out so a kit can be put together but weather and work schedule has it going really slow right now. More to come...
 

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Andrmorr

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Burlington, NC
Andrmorr, I am Interested, any idea on the price?
It's hard to say exactly until all the lines are mapped. Hoses are priced by the inch of hose plus the cost of the ends (if new ones are used)...there is also different types of hose that can be used. This weather has all but stopped my fuel line research program for a while, but I can say the first return line was $23.
 

gottaluvit

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Just got through replacing the O-rings on the selector valve on the M818 as well as replacing the badly cracked hoses on the selector valve. The selector valve was by-passed before and only drawing from the left tank.

I used the Parker brand "push-lock" 1/2" and 3/8" hose on the fittings and ran the left tank supply hose directly to the selector valve from the tank.
These pics saved me. I tried a while back getting my right tank to work and couldn't figure it out. Was following lines today just hoping to see a wet spot after shooting a little air into the tank and noticed the return line and fuel line from my right tank weren't above each other on the valve. Two lines looked to be recently changed before I got the truck and they left a camo fuel cap on pass. side with an air valve in it. Just a lot of sign they were trying a lot of different things to get it working right. Well, when they put those two new hoses on the valve they put them on the wrong place. Switched them and it runs like a champ on either tank. Another one down. Several more issues to go. When my floats come in I will be like new in the fuel area.


Remember, check the position of the hoses if your truck looks like it had recently been worked on and won't run on both tanks.


Jim

The truck started right back up and never coughed when switching over to the right tank.
 

OC455

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I got the selector valve out of the truck and lines off to be replaced. The valve was stuck in one position and had some build up in it. I spray parts cleaner inside of it. No out of the ordinary wear. What is the best way to make it shiny and clean inside?
 

OC455

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I would read this thread from the beginning. It is very informative.
I have read every post in this thread at least three times referencing what I need to do, removal, dis-assembly and what you should replace when apart. If you know of where it says the best way to clean the valve (what to use or how others have done it) and I missed it, let me know. Thank you.
 

Andyrv6av8r

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I have read every post in this thread at least three times referencing what I need to do, removal, dis-assembly and what you should replace when apart. If you know of where it says the best way to clean the valve (what to use or how others have done it) and I missed it, let me know. Thank you.
Carb or brake cleaner will work fine. Mine was clean as could be inside when I took it apart.
 
Finally finding time to tinker with the XM818.

With new batteries in her all the electrical seems A-OK. Even confirmed she has power to the Fuel Solenoid. So now chasing the fuel system.

The EMERGENCY Fuel Cut-Off Cable and Valve are both functioning properly and I've confirmed the Fuel Cut-Off Valve is in the "Run" position.

Primer Pump would hardly budge the Fuel Pressure Gauge's Needle, so I replace the Primer Pump's O-Rings. Now the Primer Pump will make, BUT NOT HOLD 30 P.S.I. with vigorous pumping..... Looks like it's on to the Selector Valve and Rubber Hose inspection/replacement as my next indicated step(s).

THANK YOU for the wealth of information archived in this thread. More on this as we progress towards "The Shepherd's" RESURRECTION !!!
 
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