A3 Fule filter change?

[jaymcb]

If I can, I am going to try to change my fuel filter before I drive home 450 miles. Since I am flying down, I'd like to know what I need for filters and tools. The TM says 'change it' and gives instructions on priming in section 3, but I need to know what tools, etc, because I am going to be changing it by the side of the road, and I also need to put whatever tools I need in a suitcase.

Which filter as well, because the FAQ isn't clear about which one goes on it?

I'm hoping it's a spin on!

 

[jaymcb]

Sorry about the mis-spell in the title.

 

[Rustygears]

Standard Cat filter. You can also get it at napa. It's a spin on. All the A3 filters are spin on.

 

[AceHigh]

Wix 33239,NAPA 3239

 

[Thunder in NWOR]

Cat 7E-9763

Take two. If there are contaminants in the tank or system, they will end up in the filter. The system cycles a LOT of fuel back to the tank and will stir up everything so best be prepared..... (truck will seem to loose power, may not reve high enough to shift and you think you have a trans problem - or may die on the road - all happend to me)

 

[jaymcb]

so...spin off, fill new one with diesel, spin on, prime and go? sounds TOO easy.....nothing ever goes that easy for me....ever.

 

[glcaines]

so...spin off, fill new one with diesel, spin on, prime and go? sounds TOO easy.....nothing ever goes that easy for me....ever.

You are correct - sometimes it is not that easy! First off, you mentioned filling the filter with diesel before installing. That is a good idea, except it won't work on the 3116 engine. The filter screws on facing down, so the diesel will pour out.

Now for the potential problems. On my A3, the filter was on so tight that I severely distorted the can getting it loose. I needed an oil filter strap wrench that fit the diameter of the fuel filter. It was so tight I still couldn't break it loose. Then I took a long crescent wrench and put it on the handle of the strap wrench, pointing up. Then I either put a shaft through the hole in the end of the crescent wrench or used a pipe wrench - I can't remember which worked, because I tried both. It then came loose with a loud bang but only after partially twisting the filter can like a pretzel and I was pulling on that wrench with everything I had in me. The other problem I had was that the drain petcock on the bottom of the separator was plugged solid with crud. I needed to rod it out with a piece of welding rod before fuel would flow out. And then for the worst problem. The TM simply says re-start the engine. after installing the filter No problem, right? Wrong! Apparently everyone else has been able to simply restart their engine without bleeding off the air, as the TM suggests. Mine started right up and ran for a few seconds before the air got to it. It took a lot of cranking over a period of time to get mine to restart. I mean a lot of cranking. The TM was of no help, because since it just says to restart the engine, there are no directions on how to bleed the air out.

Changing out the fuel filter prior to recovery is a good idea, but I would highly recommend taking the truck out of the GL lot and off post first to a place you can work on it if you have problems and where you can leave it temporarily if needed without worrying about GL and the removal deadline. As previously mentioned, take along a second new filter in case crud clogs the new one you installed.

During my recovery, I didn't change out the filter prior to my 1,000 mile recovery, although I had a new one with me. The main reason was that my recovery was in January in Wisconsin and it was bitterly cold. The truck ran fine and I reasoned that I could change the filter later if needed. Good luck!

 

[Thunder in NWOR]

Screw on filter that has threads down on the 3116, so you cant fill it.

Cat folks have some pretty strong language about not filling fuel filters.

Just screw it on - flip on the long switch and wait for 20 seconds and then hit the starter. Mine always fills and fires right away...

 

[3dAngus]

Moral of this story -Be prepared

I would not change out the filter, but I would have all the parts and tools necessary in case something goes wrong down the road. You can create problems for yourself when doing something not familiar with. Read the TM, and drain off any water and crud you can, but don't touch a thing but fluids additions unless absolutely necessary. You're not as likely to have problems with the A3 filters as the A2 on a recovery operation, but don't leave home without them.
And make darn sure you have a glad hand style air hose for filling up your tires along the way.
Good luck!

 

[yarry23]

Hello all,

I'm hoping to win a bid on a M109A3 in a couple of weeks. I have started compiling a list of what I will need to bring with me, in order to be prepared. This thread was extremely helpful, thank you!

About 600 miles for my (potential) recovery, so I want to have everything I will need up front. Thanks for the part numbers, very helpful.


~~yarry

 

[flyxpl]

Screw on filter that has threads down on the 3116, so you cant fill it.

Cat folks have some pretty strong language about not filling fuel filters.

Just screw it on - flip on the long switch and wait for 20 seconds and then hit the starter. Mine always fills and fires right away...

What do you mean by flipping the long switch and waiting 20 sec. ? When I turn on my accessory switch my pump does not seem to run until I start the motor . If I turn the bleeder on the bottom of the filter housing , nothing will come out unless I open the bleeder with the engine running .

For the cat folks that have some pretty strong language for not filling up the filter . WHY did the Retar**s design the 3116 with the filter upside down ??
I have a dump truck with a 3116 in it . After a new fuel filter I can not get it to run . It was a ran up to temp, then changed , but still did not help me to get it going , even in warm weather to start with .
I have yet to change the filter on my A3 . I would drive your truck home and change yor filter at home . Take one or two with you .

 

[mktopside]

They key to getting it to start after changing the filter is to warm the engine up before hand. If its dead cold, and cold outside, the 3116 has enough trouble firing off. I'm with everyone else though in saying, don't change it until you're home unless you have issues.

 

[steve6x6x6]

I have had trouble with my A3 fuel system, it sucks. The brass check valve on top of the fuel tank is the problem. You will have trouble with it before a fuel filter. I have bought a new cat fuel filter with water seperator and electric fuel pump, the check valve will be removed and the electric pump installed and the new filter - BEFORE the fuel goes in the engine. The filter setup now is after the engine pump.

 

[jaymcb]

OK, going with the SS consensus. Have one, but don't change it. 10-4. I'm sitting up reading the TM again. Recovery in 9 hours.

I brought my 8 y/o son down to share the 450 mile trek home.....I hope it is going to register as a fond memory

He's been over the moon about it, and wants to get dropped to school in it on Monday

 

[glcaines]

Just screw it on - flip on the long switch and wait for 20 seconds and then hit the starter. Mine always fills and fires right away...

A2s have a primary pump located in the tank. Flipping the long switch as you called it (the master) will turn the pump on in an A2. In an A3, there is no in-tank pump. The pump is located on top of the governor assembly and is mechanically driven by the governor. The pump will not fill the filter until the engine is rotating.

 

[Rustygears]

Uh, I beg to differ. My stock A3 definitely has an in tank electric pump. It makes a distinctive clack- clack sound just like the pump on my Howell efi system I put on my CJ-5.

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

Here is a picture of the filter system that I installed on my A3. I had a heck of a time getting fuel to the injectors the first time it ran. I ended up cleaning all of the crud out of the small inline check valves on either side of the piston pump and adding air pressure to the fuel tank. Although my truck had fuel line components missing and had been open to the aie for probably a couple of years. I ended up making my own filter adapter and using some surplus filters that I had but the filter adapters are available through stores like NAPA. I just couldn't stand the fact of dirt going through the engine driven piston pump.

 

[steve6x6x6]

Uh, I beg to differ. My stock A3 definitely has an in tank electric pump. It makes a distinctive clack- clack sound just like the pump on my Howell efi system I put on my CJ-5.

I am from Missouri on this, show me a pic of an electric pump in the tank on a A3? I do not have one. ser# 50853

 

[3dAngus]

According to the tech manual, the A3 doesn't normally have a fuel pump in the tank, but I can easily see how someone in the field would put one in, or use an existing A2 tank as a suitable substitute which has a fuel pump in the tank.

I prefer a dual fuel pump system, and have one in each of my Mercedes. One near the tank and one near the engine.

 

[glcaines]

Uh, I beg to differ. My stock A3 definitely has an in tank electric pump. It makes a distinctive clack- clack sound just like the pump on my Howell efi system I put on my CJ-5.

I'm not saying you are wrong. Almost anything is possible. However, I have never seen an in-tank pump on an A3 and the TM doesn't show one. Are you sure you aren't hearing the check valve clicking and echoing in the tank? The fuel pump is located on top of the governor and is mechanically driven, and it also makes a kind of hollow thumping sound on mine that I can hear echoing in the tank if I remove the fill cap and put my ear to the opening.