Another M1010 owner

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LT67

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Location
Bowdon, GA
Don't worry! With us all at different points with our trucks, we are all making each other broke! If you think I don't have a laundry list of things to do... well. It grows faster that I get things done. My main focus when I started was getting her reliable, especially since she died on the road test when I was 5-6 hours from home. And was towed home as a non running vehicle. It did however help with negotiations...
I have three square bodies; two M10008's and a 79 K20. I can assure anyone the list of things to fix never ends....
 

Mad Texan

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Chester County, PA
I've been getting a few things done. Replaced the horn- couldn't be saved. Bled the brakes. Stopped a power steering leak on the return line. I bought some additional reverse lights but haven't installed them yet. I have been diagnosing the heater in the back. I'm getting close with it! I have some greyish smoke from the tailpipe, but no fire yet. Been bad about taking pictures in the cold weather.

But most importantly... I put some miles on her this morning before the rain. It was 29, I glowed her twice and she fired right up!
 

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TechnoWeenie

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Location
Melmac / WA
Couple things to check for the fuel fired heater.

Pump on driver side firewall under the hood.
Shut off valve under truck, just under heater
Drain valve under truck just under the heater (easy to tell if pump is running)
Fuel filter- ceramic (can be removed and cleaned) @ burner
 
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Mad Texan

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Chester County, PA
Couple things to check for the fuel fired heater.

Pump on driver side firewall under the hood.
Shut off valve under truck, just under heater
Drain valve under truck just under the heater (easy to tell if pump is running)
Fuel filter- ceramic (can be removed and cleaned) @ burner
Thanks for all the pointers! So far: Pump works, I flushed all the old diesel through the drain valve till I had fresh, Shut off valve is on and the filter is clean because I have good flow when the line is removed from the fuel valve, I even have fuel through the bleeder on the fuel valve. I removed the fuel valve and verified the solenoids work- had to clean one out from being gummed up. At this point I think the heater needs to be removed to get to combustion chamber nozzle. Wick was still dry- I tried wetting it and that's when I had greyish smoke but it wouldn't lite. Some more cleaning and I think we will get it running.
 
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TechnoWeenie

Active member
949
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Melmac / WA
Thanks for all the pointers! So far: Pump works, I flushed all the old diesel through the drain valve till I had fresh, Shut off valve is on and the filter is clean because I have good flow when the line is removed from the fuel valve, I even have fuel through the bleeder on the fuel valve. I removed the fuel valve and verified the solenoids work- had to clean one out from being gummed up. At this point I think the heater needs to be removed to get to check the nozzle. Wick was still dry- I tried wetting it and that's when I had greyish smoke but it wouldn't lite. Some more cleaning and I think we will getting running.
Try pushing seafoam through it...
 

Mad Texan

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Chester County, PA
Well, CUCVRUS (Thank you!) was able to help me out with some of the final things that I needed for my second tank install. Much easier to have them in hand to figure out a plan of attack! Some cleaning and painting to do on some of it... I also Have had some rubbing issues on the draglink/ pitman arm at a full right turn. New bolts for the steering stops and no more rubbing.
 

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Mad Texan

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Chester County, PA
Another project that I finally got back to was in the ashtray. It seems my original voltmeter died so it got me to finish this. I can now see the voltages on the 12v and the 24v side making sure everything is good. I know the original can be fixed but I went ahead and ordered a 24v VDO one to replace it. Finally starting to put a few miles on her... 100 in the last week.
 

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Mad Texan

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Location
Chester County, PA
My Heater was missing when I picked her up. Oh well. Love the factory fuel filler. I just need the inner and outer fuel filler boxes.
Are you talking about the cup for the filler and the cover over the filler neck on the inside? That's them next to the neck...
 

Keith_J

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Location
Schertz TX
We are back in business with the voltmeter with colors and numbers. Both seem to agree on the output...
Very nice! I got a 100 ampere digital ammeter/voltmeter/power meter from Amazon for under $15. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JOUZELG/?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I want to use it for my 24 volt air conditioning system but it could also work on the entire electrical system. Or it could just work on the alternator system..decisions, decisions.
 

Mad Texan

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Location
Chester County, PA
A few things have been happening while trying to work around rain...some more stuff from ORD during the sale they had. I replaced the mushy rubber sway bar with urethane ones. The truck now turns before rolling! Well worth it. Right front was rubbing the pitman arm so a little adjustment helped that out.
 

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Mad Texan

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LED's in the new tail lights were good. But I still wanted some more light to see what's back there... Last picture the wall is about 10 feet away
 

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joshuak

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Slower shore, DE
A few things have been happening while trying to work around rain...some more stuff from ORD ...
Great products! I spy lift springs, sway bar disconnect, extended bump stops, :jumpin:. How high are you going?
Rock shield looks great under the PS fuel tank.

LED's in the new tail lights were good. But I still wanted some more light to see what's back there... Last picture the wall is about 10 feet away
Nice! Do they come on in reverse or are they switched?
 

Mad Texan

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
219
38
28
Location
Chester County, PA
Great products! I spy lift springs, sway bar disconnect, extended bump stops, :jumpin:. How high are you going?
Rock shield looks great under the PS fuel tank.

Nice! Do they come on in reverse or are they switched?
I'm going to do 4", tuff country hd's in the front, I chose the diy4x flip for the rear, still need to order a few things but almost have all the parts.

Lights come on with the reverse lights. So far they are great for lighting things up!

I been putting some miles on her since getting registered and inspected... so far so good. Belts of course needed adjustment again. And despite the taller tires the speedo seems to read 10% faster. On stock tires it must have said 70-75 when you were doing 55.
 

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Terracoma

Member
334
5
18
Location
Albuquerque, NM
Another project that I finally got back to was in the ashtray...
This ashtray charging station is exactly the inspiration I've been looking for. Are you still happy with the MicTuning products?

Thought your IG username and truck looked familiar when I found it last night... Guess I need to visit the hotrodding section here more often! Great thread so far, and I'm really digging the clean and detail-oriented install work.


[thumbzup]
 

Keith_J

Active member
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Location
Schertz TX
The power meter I installed is from MicTuning. Really happy with it since I ruined the calibration on the stock 24 volt meter when installing the coolant temperature gauge. The power meter has voltage, current, power and energy, more suited to the alternative energy market. I installed it in the driver's side alternator ground for the ammeter shunt, then tapped into the existing voltmeter for voltage. This way it is showing the work of the alternators, far better than the stock voltmeter.
 

Mad Texan

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
219
38
28
Location
Chester County, PA
This ashtray charging station is exactly the inspiration I've been looking for. Are you still happy with the MicTuning products?

Thought your IG username and truck looked familiar when I found it last night... Guess I need to visit the hotrodding section here more often! Great thread so far, and I'm really digging the clean and detail-oriented install work.

[thumbzup]
Thanks Gary! I am happy with the stuff I got from MicTuning as well as Superbright LED's. The switch panel pieces ended up coming from both.

Yes, you need to visit both sections! Excellent knowledge in both of them!

Thanks again for the complements in the work I've done! Trying not to clutter things up and keep the systems understandable! If and when it warms up again I'm going after the abandoned DUVAC wiring to clean it out. Still of list of stuff to do but she's at least running and drivable now! She fired up when it was 18 degrees the other night without an issue... :cool:
 

Mad Texan

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
219
38
28
Location
Chester County, PA
The power meter I installed is from MicTuning. Really happy with it since I ruined the calibration on the stock 24 volt meter when installing the coolant temperature gauge. The power meter has voltage, current, power and energy, more suited to the alternative energy market. I installed it in the driver's side alternator ground for the ammeter shunt, then tapped into the existing voltmeter for voltage. This way it is showing the work of the alternators, far better than the stock voltmeter.
I looked quickly at the power meter you installed. It looked like it gave some great information. I'll have to look at it a little more closely.
 
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