Artisan's M916

simp5782

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I am still working out some bugs in my newly acquired M920.
Some electrical issues like the fan motor is toast.
All the dash controls for heater/vents are seized up.

But, when looking at your build, and that of R Racing, you both used some seriously overkill pressure regulators/oil misters for providing clean air/oil to the transmission.
My question, is $500 really worth it for these two parts?
I can find really good components for $100 to $200.
Not sure if the parts you used are worth the premium price tag.
Thoughts?
I have a FabCo Air regulator and mister. It works fine. I think i got em for under $200.. you can find the equal parker ones on ebay for under $250 for both. I have a Parker Mister if you want one for cheap. You don't need the mister really unless you arent running it everyday. Member Ponway has a CAT in his Western Stat truck he modified in. He doesnt run one cause he drives it everyday. The Orings do stick pretty bad. Mine every so often has air dump problems. I have the mister set to low setting. I also have an air dryer and 2 tanks for the transmission itself.
 

ponway

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Like Wes said, I run a 7155 over the road every week, Somewhere over 80,000 mi since July 2016. Haven't had any problems with the air system. I started out with a 2009 Fort Polk overhauled tranny, I did pull the rebuilt valve body off and put on a brand new one out of the crate. I do use a Parker regulator set at 95 psi as R R Racing suggested, seems to not slam the shift forks so hard. And I use a Bendix AD-9 air dryer, I never have water in the air tanks. Down to 0 degrees, no air problems and no valve body heater either.

I would say the most important thing would be dry air. Get a good dryer and don't use the alcohol bottle. If it sits a lot, the oil mister might not be a bad idea.

If I remember right, the air dryer was added to the M916 I drove at Fort Carson in 1987, I don't think the trucks came out with them new. And the valve body heater was an after thought too, I think. Probably good dry air would have solved the problems they were chasing?

Anyway, I'm going to put a heat exchanger to heat the oil in mine for another issue, torque. It's rated for 1340 and I'm putting 1650 in it with a Series 60 Detroit 470 hp and the rear clutch will slip when the temp gets down in the teens at peak torque in the top 2 gears. Not sure if it's just this transmission or if another one I have will do the same thing, haven't tried it yet. Already raised the rear clutch pressure by about 30 psi which helped.

Maybe this needs to be somewhere else, don't want to highjack Artisan's thread!
 

Hammer

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Yeah, sorry for the hi-jack as well. I just figured you are one of the few that has posted about this mod, and has some miles (and opinions,) under your belt with it and these trucks.
LOTS of great information in this thread, keep it up!
 

Artisan

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16R21 Super Single Wheels/Tires

On a side note, in looking for another truck (yes I am considering it and all options)
I ran into an M916 for sale and the owner states in the advertisement
that 16R21 Super Single Wheels/Tires bolt on w/o having to grind on things.
If anyone can shed any light on this mod please do.
 

simp5782

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On a side note, in looking for another truck (yes I am considering it and all options)
I ran into an M916 for sale and the owner states in the advertisement
that 16R21 Super Single Wheels/Tires bolt on w/o having to grind on things.
If anyone can shed any light on this mod please do.

Found this.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62592-16R21-Wheels-and-Tires

I would assume since a 20inch wheel only takes minimal brake drum grinding that the extra half inch all the way around would be enough to clear it. But I would be thinking 24R21s over the 16s. they are rare.
 

Artisan

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Pulled the pan today, 3rd cylinder from rear, spun connecting rod bearing.
One of the rod cap bolts was a LOT looser than the other. Crank is toast.
I get to rebuild or buy anew.

If anyone knows anyone w/ a new NTC400855 in crate please let me know.

spun-bearing.jpg
 

NDT

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If I were you, I would pull the engine, set it on the bellhousing standing up complete with heads on, and pull the crank and send to get turned. Some numskull forgot to final torque that rod cap.
 

Artisan

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If I were you, I would pull the engine, set it on the bellhousing standing up complete with heads on, and pull the crank and send to get turned. Some numskull forgot to final torque that rod cap.
I didn't think of standing it on end, now I have something to chew on.
Thank U NDT!

The TM sorta says; to torque rod caps you go to 75, then 150, then LOOSEN
then 30 then 75, then 150. Yep I bet he forgot the final 150 or skipped loosening or sumthang...
When I pull caps I will set to 85+ or so and see how many move...

Does anyone know;
Am I correct that the Cummins 250 and the 400 BC1 have the same crank?
A #3000140 If so I think I found one for a song.



How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time...
 

WillWagner

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The crank goes through a hole in the FW hsg. Can't just turn it on it's end and pull the crank, it needs to come out straight. Both ends need to be pulled and the crank lifted straight out. I know where there is an engine stand. You need to pull other bearings to see if the filter went into bypass, IIRC there was sparkly material on the clean side of the filter. Depending on the condition of the other bearings, this will dictate what else needs attention. If the other bearings are full of the spun rod material, all other oiled components will need attention, including upper rod bushings. At least 3 pistons will not be reusable from rod bearing material embedded in the piston skirt just from the material leaving the journal.
 

NDT

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The crank goes through a hole in the FW hsg. Can't just turn it on it's end and pull the crank, it needs to come out straight. Both ends need to be pulled and the crank lifted straight out. I know where there is an engine stand. You need to pull other bearings to see if the filter went into bypass, IIRC there was sparkly material on the clean side of the filter. Depending on the condition of the other bearings, this will dictate what else needs attention. If the other bearings are full of the spun rod material, all other oiled components will need attention, including upper rod bushings. At least 3 pistons will not be reusable from rod bearing material embedded in the piston skirt just from the material leaving the journal.
Good to know Will. Scratch my idea. Top end has to come apart. Now you're looking at a lot of work to fix what you got.
 

WillWagner

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The overhead can stay on, the engine just needs to be flipped upside down, both ends removed and then the crank comes out, IF he were just doing a crank because it broke, but, it has a spun bearing, it will need to come down to a bare block IF material got past the filter.

Brad, disconnect the batteries. Drop the companion rod cap, that would be #3, and push out the upper bearing shell. This will tell you if debris went through the system. The rod bearings are the last in line for lube, the rods determine the condition of the mains and other oiled parts.

And IIRC, the cranks are the same in all 855's until the N14 came into production, then some counter weights were removed and a larger rod journal was introduced.

OHH, there's an idea, transplant an N14 into it!
 

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FASTNOVA

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Artisan if it helps out this week I'm going to Oregon and next week I'll be in Texas. If you find an engine anywhere along my route I can pick it up for you at a discounted rate since I run with a flatbed trailer.
 

WillWagner

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Brad, I found a manual that shows flow, but, it is for BCIV, New BCIV so the flow through the oc is different, but it will give you what I think you are looking for...leme see if I can figure out how to attach them from my phone...
 

M35A2-AZ

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Artisan, If the cranks are the same in a 250 and 400, Castle bravo has a 250 crank stored in my barn.
 

Artisan

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I read all the above, thank you all. I am chewing on it all
and will address as I reach those points. I think I found a crank
from a good friend for a song.

Right now I am pulling the tranny, THAT in-and-of-itself is
a big job, doing it alone... I am down to bellhousing bolts and
the rear support spring and that puppy is out. I made
some extensions for my forklift, looks like I will have to
buy a HarborFreight 1Ton trans jack, put it on my forks and
get to the gettin'. If I believe what I read, the trans weighs 1035
pounds. I did NOT find that in a TM, if anyone knows where
the weight is written officially I would like to know.

So far so good, less my soul hurts.

Words to the wise; Forget
the manual and go ahead and pull the DS air tank so you
can easily get at the 7155 Air Pack area to disconnect things.

Additionally pull the propeller shaft (book says push it aside)
between the trans and TC, it will not push aside far enough to
move trans rearwards to clear bell housing IMHO.
 

Artisan

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CAT 7155 Umbilical Gasket CAD

On a side note, I ran into a part I had squirreled away, that
being the Umbilical gasket for the Ratio Selector to tranny
Umbilical hose. The hose is impossible to find new.

A friend of mine has a FARO ARM and he reverse engineered
the gasket into digital CAD form for me so if I ever need
to fab up an Umbilical I am ahead of the game.

7155-umbilical-gasket.jpg
 

Artisan

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I just received a PM from a SS member RE 7155 weight;

"From a 1977 Cat 7155 operation manual, the stated weight (dry) is 1130 lbs.
Be sure to drain the flywheel housing or you will get a dumping of oil when it separates!"

THANK YOU! ( and it is way ok to post in this thread sir! )
 
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