• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Artisan's M916

Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,959
217
63
Location
Arizona
I can't answer the legal questions, but I added a few reflectors to the mudflaps and frame side near the rear.

The mudflap mounted reflectors are just the regular armored deep dish reflectors that I drilled some holes for and used some fender washers to back them. You could also use some conspicuity tape in an "L" on the mudflap I guess.

I think the mudflap mounted reflectors would meet your rear reflector requirement and would be a good idea anyways.

I put some side facing reflectors near the end of the frame on each side so that there would be something side facing back there. They are stick on ones and have weathered well over a few years.

The LED tail lights are also "reflectorized" and reflect light pretty well even when off.

Now that I've used them, I really like these - http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wc...10001&storeId=10001&productId=29834&langId=-1
 

quickfarms

Active member
3,495
22
38
Location
Orange Junction, CA
Anyone fully knowledgeable about Federal Regulations on clearance lights?
I have seen the posters but I am still a little unsure on what all I have to
do to make the added flatbed compliant w/ Federal Lighting Requirements / Laws.

So as a tractor only, all my lights and reflectors are up to snuff.

Now I added a removable flatbed that is bolted on, so as I see it, I need to add;

1- Add a 3-Light ID bar across the back, middle, because I am over 80" wide.

2- Add 2 red reflectors at the rear, far left and right.

3- Add 2 red clearance lights at the very rear on both sides.

4- Add Conspicuity tape rear and sides.

I am under 30' long so I believe I do not need amber lights on the side at the
front of the flatbed.

Correct? Richard you reading this?
Interesting question.

The regulations apply to commercial vehicles.

If you are not operating commercially you are not required to update the vehicle.

The flatbed is either the load, removable, or part of the vehicle, bolted.

Since you converted the vehicle you may be required to comply with the current regulations. And you are technically required to have it reclassified as a flatbed.

My flatbed will be attached by the fifth wheel King pin and 2 container locks so it will be classified as a load.

My other truck has a 20' flatbed ad the truck is 29 feet long. The bed has the following reflective marker lights. Amber front and side of the front corners of the bed. Red rear and side of the rear corners of the bed. Three red in the center rear of the bed. The reflective lights eliminated the requirement for additional reflectors, in 1989, and currently since it is not used commercially.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
QF yes I was told about doing this and reclassifying but I think I would
be pardoned since it is indeed a CONVERTIBLE, as in I can take off 8 bolts and
remove the flatbed and install 8 bolts and I have a 5th wheel.

I can do it...planned.


I am looking at it like it IS a commercially used vehicle just to try to CMA.
 

quickfarms

Active member
3,495
22
38
Location
Orange Junction, CA
QF yes I was told about doing this and reclassifying but I think I would
be pardoned since it is indeed a CONVERTIBLE, as in I can take off 8 bolts and
remove the flatbed and install 8 bolts and I have a 5th wheel.

I can do it...planned.


I am looking at it like it IS a commercially used vehicle just to try to CMA.
Did you remove the fifth wheel?
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
My Jacobs brake quit working on my most recent 1300 mile Arizona trip.
(It was it's maiden voyage! Ha! )

When I was at Barstow GL Military base a trucker hauling a beat up M931
stopped while I was loading up containers for 98G, just to look at my M916.

Come to find out, he is an enlisted man driving a semi and all he does is move
the stuff around (trucks mostly) that "we" buy from GL and GP. I told him my Jake brake quit working
and he immediately said; "It is probably a switch, they all do that regularly" just like he knew
exactly what he was talking about.

So, when I got to Tucson I obtained the switch under the floor pedal for the Jacobs brake
in the cab because it felt kinda gritty, and swapped in a new one, but still, no Jake brake.

There is another switch on the engine, it is supposed to prevent the Jacobs brake from
engaging if your foot is on the go pedal or the throttle lock is on, guess I will throw that
part at that next.

If anyone has any input on Jacobs brake diagnosing I would appreciate a heads up.
All the 3 wires are connected to the heads, I replaced the foot switch in the cab...

:-(

Other than some scum sucking lowlife literally ripping my 8" rearview convex mirrors
off my truck (2) while I slept at a major hotel, that was my only other issue. I am sure
the newer M916's are nice but my M916 is no slouch...I enjoy driing it.
I am working w/ this Major Hotel as I type trying to get footage of the theft,
were getting close...
 

R Racing

Active member
2,767
15
38
Location
St. Leonard, MD
My Jacobs brake quit working on my most recent 1300 mile Arizona trip.
(It was it's maiden voyage! Ha! )

When I was at Barstow GL Military base a trucker hauling a beat up M931
stopped while I was loading up containers for 98G, just to look at my M916.

Come to find out, he is an enlisted man driving a semi and all he does is move
the stuff around (trucks mostly) that "we" buy from GL and GP. I told him my Jake brake quit working
and he immediately said; "It is probably a switch, they all do that regularly" just like he knew
exactly what he was talking about.

So, when I got to Tucson I obtained the switch under the floor pedal for the Jacobs brake
in the cab because it felt kinda gritty, and swapped in a new one, but still, no Jake brake.

There is another switch on the engine, it is supposed to prevent the Jacobs brake from
engaging if your foot is on the go pedal or the throttle lock is on, guess I will throw that
part at that next.

If anyone has any input on Jacobs brake diagnosing I would appreciate a heads up.
All the 3 wires are connected to the heads, I replaced the foot switch in the cab...

:-(

Other than some scum sucking lowlife literally ripping my 8" rearview convex mirrors
off my truck (2) while I slept at a major hotel, that was my only other issue. I am sure
the newer M916's are nice but my M916 is no slouch...I enjoy driing it.
I am working w/ this Major Hotel as I type trying to get footage of the theft,
were getting close...
I'm 99 % sure your issues is the curcuit breaker/ relay in the dash on the right panel. Try replacing it I'm pretty certain it will get it working for you again. The only other thing is the throttle position switch. But I never had a problem with that. It's alays been the relay
 

Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,959
217
63
Location
Arizona
When I got my 916, the jake brake didn't work, and it turned out to be the throttle position switch being out of adjustment. The -20 TM has an excellent troubleshooting section regarding the engine retarder. It may help to look at the 915A1 TM also because you have the Big Cam III engine.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
The Jake Brake Foot Switch in the cab is made by Cole Hersee #9183-BX
If I remember right the -24P TM gives you #006007 for this part. Looks like
R Racing found another number as well, #SS525 .

My throttle position switch seems to be in adjustment A-OK, Looks like I will
go for the #6 Circuit breaker next like Jim Suggests, that being a Standard BR20.
 
Last edited:

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I think I found the jake brake issue and if you have a 7155 tranny take note.

At the rear of the Air Control Group there are 2 wires for the ENGINE RETARDER SWITCH.

There are two tiny 8-32 screws that hold the wire eyelets to this switch, they can come loose
and the eyelets can touch, when this happens I believe it makes the truck think you
are in Neutral and the Jacobs Brake is not supposed to operate when in neutral, if
I remember correctly what I read in the TM's. So the jake brake will not work.

Is there a way to test the Jacobs brake while parked?

1- You have to be in a forward gear for it to work
2- Your foot has to be off the go pedal for it to work.
3- The throttle lock has to be off for it to work.
4- Your not supposed to use the Jacobs brake under 1250 RPMS right?

So is the only way to test the Jake brake to hit the road?
 

quickfarms

Active member
3,495
22
38
Location
Orange Junction, CA
QF yes I was told about doing this and reclassifying but I think I would
be pardoned since it is indeed a CONVERTIBLE, as in I can take off 8 bolts and
remove the flatbed and install 8 bolts and I have a 5th wheel.

I can do it...planned.


I am looking at it like it IS a commercially used vehicle just to try to CMA.
Talked to the dot guys and your design requires reclassification because the fifth wheel is removed and the bed is bolted.

To be exempt from reclassification the fifth wheel needs to stay on the truck and the bed needs to be attached with the king pin and at least two other pins, no bolts.

There are multiple trucks running around here that are converted from pulling end dumps to ten wheeler dump trucks as the workload requires. The dot guys just started naming the companies and the trucks. They said quite a few of these trucks are easier to change than removing the slide in camper from a pickup truck.

They really liked my idea of using the ISO locks.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
More on the clearance lights issue.

The federal regs are one thing but as I read California regs , I need to do what I said above
in post #260, AND I need to add rear facing clearance lights too.

CLICK HERE to see this;

25100. (a) Except as provided in subdivisions (b) and (d), every vehicle 80 inches or more in overall width shall be equipped during darkness as follows:
(1) At least one amber clearance lamp on each side mounted on a forward-facing portion of the vehicle and visible from the front and at least one red clearance lamp at each side mounted on a rearward-facing portion of the vehicle and visible from the rear.


(2) At least one amber side-marker lamp on each side near the front and at least one red side-marker lamp on each side near the rear.


__________________________________

So my list of lights to add is amended;

1- Add a 3-Light ID bar across the back, middle, because I am over 80" wide.

2- Add 2 red reflectors at the rear, far left and right.

2A- Add 2 red clearance lights, far left and right facing rearwards. If these clearance lights
are a combo reflector disreguard #2 above.

3- Add 2 red clearance lights at the very rear on both sides.

4- Add Conspicuity tape rear and sides.

_________________________________

Who has Red LEDS for sale cheap?
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Ground Straps

Karl had written me about GROUND Strps and the M915 series trucks and
I could not provide him w/ the proper awnser to his question,
which has turned into my question now.

Where are ALL the ground straps on my M916? Are there really only
two, both close to the starter?
 

quickfarms

Active member
3,495
22
38
Location
Orange Junction, CA
More on the clearance lights issue.

The federal regs are one thing but as I read California regs , I need to do what I said above
in post #260, AND I need to add rear facing clearance lights too.

CLICK HERE to see this;

25100. (a) Except as provided in subdivisions (b) and (d), every vehicle 80 inches or more in overall width shall be equipped during darkness as follows:
(1) At least one amber clearance lamp on each side mounted on a forward-facing portion of the vehicle and visible from the front and at least one red clearance lamp at each side mounted on a rearward-facing portion of the vehicle and visible from the rear.


(2) At least one amber side-marker lamp on each side near the front and at least one red side-marker lamp on each side near the rear.


__________________________________

So my list of lights to add is amended;

1- Add a 3-Light ID bar across the back, middle, because I am over 80" wide.

2- Add 2 red reflectors at the rear, far left and right.

2A- Add 2 red clearance lights, far left and right facing rearwards. If these clearance lights
are a combo reflector disreguard #2 above.

3- Add 2 red clearance lights at the very rear on both sides.

4- Add Conspicuity tape rear and sides.

_________________________________

Who has Red LEDS for sale cheap?
What about the amber lights at the front and forward side on the bed?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks