AWOLs 1997 M1097A2 Build

[Awol]

Well, I'm still twiddling my thumbs. This time it's waiting for the shipper to pick it up. It's been 8 days and counting. :/

 

[Awol]

It arrived today! So far, it looks very clean for the price I paid.

I stripped it down, and power washed everything. Took inventory of what was in it. Found some machine gun links, unfired blank rounds, some gun lube, and the factory jack.

Surprisingly it has batteries in it, but they're from 2011 and don't want to take a charge. I already have a bunch of maintenance items for it, so I'll be getting to work on it this weekend.

Does anyone know what that little cannister is on the driver side in the engine bay? I took an up close pic of it.

 

[CapePrep]

Finally!!!! Good for you. Looks decent. I asked what that canister was before. Where do the rubber lines go to? Would put that start box at the top of your list for replacement. That is an old one that is on its last leg. Keep us posted.

 

[Awol]

Finally!!!! Good for you. Looks decent. I asked what that canister was before. Where do the rubber lines go to? Would put that start box at the top of your list for replacement. That is an old one that is on its last leg. Keep us posted.

I started following the lines and got side tracked lol

The start box looks like it tried experimenting with self immolation, and failed.

 

[juanprado]

Just want to make sure you know those hawkers are agm and need a charger rated for agm. Trickle charge over a long time.....

 

[TOBASH]

Prestolite is an old school PCB, is easily converted to a manual push button box, and should be converted or retired.

How to bypass PCB? I am aware some HMMWV owners have done it.

I'm not trying to speak sacrilege here, and I don't want to precipitate a war of words. :shock: How might I build a manual control box? My 24Volt Landcruiser just uses a glow wire to show glow plugs are ready, and then she just starts right up with the twist of a key. Civilian 6.2 Diesel...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Awol]

Just want to make sure you know those hawkers are agm and need a charger rated for agm. Trickle charge over a long time.....

You think they'll come back? They're sitting at 0.6v right now

 

[CapePrep]

I did some research and NAPA has a good "industrial"" battery if you decide to go with new, which might not be a bad idea. Of course choosing batteries for these rigs is like a chevy vs ford vs dodge conversations!

 

[TOBASH]

Use a lithium battery charger to rejuvenate… might work.

Or just go to Walmart and buy 24f batteries and install

 

[Awol]

Use a lithium battery charger to rejuvenate… might work.

Or just go to Walmart and buy 24f batteries and install

That's the plan. I was just curious if these old guys could be revived. Even if they could, I don't know if I'd ever trust them, especially on long trips. I don't want to get stranded.

Today I'll be dropping the fuel tank, doing fluid changes, and other maintenance. Maybe we'll even see if it'll start today. That'll be cool.

 

[Awol]

So I threw some new batteries in, fresh fuel running off a can, new fuel filter and glow plugs, and it fired right up after bleeding the system. I still haven't figured out why it was listed as a non runner, other than the fuel tank was full of water and maybe they just couldn't get it to fire?

Installed the new headlight switch, and every bulb works, surprisingly. Wipers work, horn works, so far everything seems to work.

Overall not bad for $3600

 

[CapePrep]

Did you do an engine oil change? With the water in the fuel tank and assuming they tried to start it that way, some could have made it into the engine. You seem to be on top of all the basic stuff. If the engine sounds ok, fingers crossed. Compression engines and water in the cylinders make for a very bad and expensive combo!

 

[TOBASH]

Did you do an engine oil change? With the water in the fuel tank and assuming they tried to start it that way, some could have made it into the engine. You seem to be on top of all the basic stuff. If the engine sounds ok, fingers crossed. Compression engines and water in the cylinders make for a very bad and expensive combo!

What would water in the fuel cell have to do with water in the oil pan? No connection whatsoever.

What would water in the fuel cell have to do with hydro lock? Totally different issue.

 

[Awol]

Did you do an engine oil change? With the water in the fuel tank and assuming they tried to start it that way, some could have made it into the engine. You seem to be on top of all the basic stuff. If the engine sounds ok, fingers crossed. Compression engines and water in the cylinders make for a very bad and expensive combo!

Yup, changed the oil before doing anything. It was fairly clean, with a Napa Gold filter on it, so somebody took care of it. Replaced it with fresh 15w40 and a Wix filter.

There was no evidence of water in the engine or trans, just the fuel tank.

 

[Awol]

Found this nifty thing under the driver seat

 

[Awol]

Yesterday was quite a success! Did a nut and bolt check, gave everything a once over, and took it down the street and back. Who knows how long it's been since its moved under its own power?

All went well. The tires are old and dry rotted, so they'll be getting replaced. The ATF/Oil cooler developed a pinhole leak on the trans side. I temporarily patched it with JB Weld, and it's holding so far.

On the inaugural drive, it split 3 outter CV boots lol

So that's next on the list. All new cv boots, new rubber lines for the fuel system, new tires etc.

 

[Awol]

So, messing around with the truck some more. Runs like a Swiss watch, but it doesn’t like abrupt applications of throttle, followed by letting off the pedal immediately. It stumbles and dies when returning to idle. Fires right back up instantly though.

So far I've crawled all over it looking for small pinhole leaks in the rubber fuel lines, and found one that was cracked that I missed the first time around. Fixed it but still experiencing the same issue.

Any ideas where to go with it next?

 

[Coonass77]

So, messing around with the truck some more. Runs like a Swiss watch, but it doesn’t like abrupt applications of throttle, followed by letting off the pedal immediately. It stumbles and dies when returning to idle. Fires right back up instantly though.

So far I've crawled all over it looking for small pinhole leaks in the rubber fuel lines, and found one that was cracked that I missed the first time around. Fixed it but still experiencing the same issue.

Any ideas where to go with it next?

I had the exact same issue. See more info here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/6-5-turbo-dying-on-rapid-decel-psa.213180/

RWH mentioned algae being a likely cause, but I had none. Guessing the inside of my IP was just gunked-up.

 

[Mogman]

So, messing around with the truck some more. Runs like a Swiss watch, but it doesn’t like abrupt applications of throttle, followed by letting off the pedal immediately. It stumbles and dies when returning to idle. Fires right back up instantly though.

So far I've crawled all over it looking for small pinhole leaks in the rubber fuel lines, and found one that was cracked that I missed the first time around. Fixed it but still experiencing the same issue.

Any ideas where to go with it next?

Sounds like the gov. is sticking at no fuel, when you release the pedal the gov. inside the IP goes to no fuel until the RPMs get under 700 or so then it opens the fuel back up enough to maintain idle, you might add some lubricity additive to the fuel and also give it more running time.
There is also a mechanical linkage that goes down to the automatic advance piston but I am not sure what influence it may have in that situation.
I am assuming you are talking about after the engine is fully warmed up?

 

[Awol]

I had the exact same issue. See more info here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/6-5-turbo-dying-on-rapid-decel-psa.213180/

RWH mentioned algae being a likely cause, but I had none. Guessing the inside of my IP was just gunked-up.

I'll give this a try. Thank you!

Sounds like the gov. is sticking at no fuel, when you release the pedal the gov. inside the IP goes to no fuel until the RPMs get under 700 or so then it opens the fuel back up enough to maintain idle, you might add some lubricity additive to the fuel and also give it more running time.
There is also a mechanical linkage that goes down to the automatic advance piston but I am not sure what influence it may have in that situation.
I am assuming you are talking about after the engine is fully warmed up?

Yessir, after it's warmed up. The IP was sticky when I first got the truck. The pedal was pretty stiff, but loosened up after getting it running. Sounds like something internally is still sticking though.