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BlizzardX23's Freshly Painted M35A2!

Chevracer87

Member
137
0
16
Location
Hilliard Ohio
Just wondering if you sprayed it straight with the Wagner or if you thinned it down. If you did what was the ratio. I'm getting ready to spray mine this weekend
 

BlizzardX23

Member
302
12
18
Location
California
Thanks every! I did the base green (which it's been green for months) with Home Depot exterior latex house paint...it's held up great! I even hit it with my Pressure Washer to see if I could strip the paint after I messed up on some Camo...couldn't take ANY of the paint off (which is why I just bought a sandblaster kit)

I dont like how my Camo came out because for some reason, the brown on the door dried with a sort of gloss...and you can see the spray marks

I've wanted to strip the truck down and paint it the right way for a while, but never had the ability....Im EXTREMELY satisfied with the exterior latex paint...and well, we all know spray paint holds up well!

I'll be posting updates when I begin stripping it

And again, I'm not stripping it because of paint durability, I'm stripping it because I never prepped it correctly to start with, and I wanna get some of the old rust/paint off and start fresh
 

BlizzardX23

Member
302
12
18
Location
California
I sprayed it straight with the Wagner. Went to Home Depot, told them the color I wanted...took it home, poured the paint into the Wagner jar, hooked the jar to the sprayer, and sprayed it directly...no thinning needed


(BE CAREFUL!!! When the Wagner starts getting LOW on paint, it will start shooting out a mess) When the paint jar gets low and you continue to spray, you'll get these blobs of paint splattering your truck...thats a PITA lol....other than that, its EASY! It takes me between 2-5 minutes to spray one side of the bed



Benefits...You can make ANY color imaginative right there at the Home Depot counter...so you can be sure your getting the correct military green. You can purchase more by walking into any Home Depot store any day of the week...unlike of paint shops, its durable and weather proof (Its exterior house paint)...Its made with a primer from the start...its CHEAP...

I've taken my truck mudding and off roading when I painted it tan...It held up with no problems at all....covered it in mud, the mud dried on the truck for a few weeks...pressure washed it off...Paint still held up great!
 
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Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
After sanding my M211 back down I am going back to Behr myself. First I tried rustoleum "army green". Didn't like that. So I went with Valspar matched 24087 (flat) and brushed darn near the entire truck with it. Stayed with that for a few weeks then decided the brush strokes made it look like crap. So I spent months sanding EVERYTHING back down to enamel. Went with Aervoe spray cans in 24087. Painted 1/4 of the truck for $67. Decided it would cost me hundreds more to do the entire truck in the stuff. Plus spray cans waste so much in overspray. Now this time I am going to get 2 gallons of Behr flat matched to the Aervoe 24087 and spray the entire truck in 1 day with the Wagner. So I never have to do it again.

Benefits? Extreme durability. Once cured, it dries just as hard and looks like just CARC. It is diesel proof and gas proof. It holds it's color better than enamels. Ease of pickup. Ease of touch up. About as non toxic as paint can be. Cheaper. You can get any color your heart desires. Ease of application. The only downside is it must stay 100% dry for 3 weeks to fully cure. Once it goes through a few wash downs with the garden hose it seems to harden up even more. It destroys sandpaper like no tomorrow, just like CARC. In fact, the guys at IdahoMotorPool along with countless other surplus vehicle business's are using the house paints as an alternative to CARC. I honestly can't tell the difference between the two.
 

plym49

Well-known member
1,164
171
63
Location
TX USA
Has anyone had the BEHR paint on long enough to see if rusty areas continue to rust underneath the paint?

Also, pretty much all Deuces have spot areas of rust. Do you just apply the BEHR over the rust spots? Or, do you prime the rust, and if so, with what type of primer? And, did you just apply the primer directly over the rust, or did you prepare it by either neutralizing or grinding/blasting?

A lot of questions, but this thread will be a good one to establish best practice.
 

plym49

Well-known member
1,164
171
63
Location
TX USA
Now this time I am going to get 2 gallons of Behr flat matched to the Aervoe 24087 and spray the entire truck in 1 day with the Wagner. So I never have to do it again.
Will you go with flat, satin or whatever BEHR-matched 24087?

Could you please post the BEHR codes that match to 24087?
 

Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
As I said, it will be matched to Aervoe 24087. It's a darker OD with less brown than the Gillespie. But still darn nice looking with plenty of brown in the sunshine. I believe I will go with flat or satin. I have not decided yet. To be honest, this 20 year boy is TIRED of sanding and doing body work. Burned out, would be a better word. With the flat I don't have to worry about runs and imperfections nearly as much as I did with the semi gloss enamel. So yeah, probably go flat. I would be happy to post the paint code and was planning to do so. :D I will post it in the paint code thread.
 

Chevracer87

Member
137
0
16
Location
Hilliard Ohio
I agree I have been painting my truck piece by piece with Behr over the last couple months and it's turned out great. The only complaint I have is the time it takes to cure.
 
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