Block Heater

[73X]

Here are some pics of the block heater I got from Navistar/International. I will get pics of the install up later even though it was a very simple process. The heater was $38.00 and the plug was another $12.00. Not to bad for a heater you can walk in and pick up and is in stock darn near everywhere if it fails on you.

 

[Divemaster920]

And made in USA...

 

[swbradley1]

Where on the engine are you mounting that?

I'm waiting to hear that one myself.

 

[73X]

Here is where it is being mounted. It is a tight fit inside but it fit.
The total length of the heater is only 3-1/8 long. If you count the approximate thread length you would need to tighten it in you could add 3/8 to 1/2 inch. I see that Westfolk sells a shorter one but this one fit mine.

 

[swbradley1]

And that's what I was waiting for........



sw

 

[73X]

Just thought of this. Have you plugged it in? We've had a couple that went it fine, no problems, then when plugged in it tripped the breaker.

It will work if you have the right pump. Just the same there is a reason why I quit selling the 750 watt.

First off I want to say THANK YOU to Westfolk for his concern. And yes, we have plugged it in and it does work fine. No breakers tripping, no shorts or problems.
It works exactly as it is supposed to (a rarity for me). I didn't know there are two different water pumps - when we were working on my 7.3 Excursion, I trial fitted that one and that's how I knew it would fit. Luck, I guess.

 

[adv789]

As all should note. You HAVE TO KNOW your water pump. As some may remember I did sell a 750 watt heater. I do not any more. To many problems can come about with that one because of its length. Not all the water pumps are built the same. If you have the wrong one a long heater element fit slide in, and then break off when tightened.

Your buck, be cautious.

Ya... if it breaks inside that water pump, its very time comsuming and frustrating to get it out. lol i know! just did it about 3 weeks ago. no fun at all. plus your out 80 bucks. so take westfolks advise. and if it feels like its binding on somthing inside then STOP, it is.

Ryan D.

 

[73X]

I appreciate your advice but it is in and done. I checked with an old one to verify fit first. Lay out die and a few minutes is all it took.

 

[73X]

I wish I knew all of the reasons some things work on some trucks and not others, but I don't. I just took a chance and it worked. We had one truck apart replacing a bad block heater and decided to try it out. We coated the end with Lay-Out die and went in one full turn at a time then we would take it out and check it. It was a pain in the rear but it worked. I have heard of them breaking off in the water pump and was concerned about it.

 

[KsM715]

What causes them to break off? Is it hitting something on the end? (bottoming out) or is it catching something from the side and getting twisted off? Just curious.

 

[73X]

On some unknown water pumps the cavity inside has a protrusion that prevents the heater from turning and will twist the end of the heater off and let it fall into the water pump. I don't need to tell you what kind of fun that would be.

 

[KsM715]

Thats what I was thinking. Is there anyway to check (look inside w/mirror or bore scope type thing) and see if its a piece of casting or something like that?

 

[73X]

I put Lay-Out die on the end and went in one turn at a time and kept checking the end. If you have a way to look in there that may work as well. I don't know how to tell if one pump will work over another if there is a way.

 

[73X]

Same here. After it came to light that it could happen I yanked the ads. The 600 watt always works, in all multifuels....and does a decent job. So, I'll stick with that one.

Definitely a wise business chose. Although for me it is not a business just a hobby. I also had the time and resources to verify that everything fit fine. If it had not fit I found a generic 600 watt heater element for less monies than I paid for this one and it was local also.
My biggest goal was to put in something that is made in the USA and that if it failed and I happened to be back in Tennessee visiting family or in Michigan's U.P I would be able to find a replacement and know it will fit.

 

[M543A2]

I still prefer the tank types that pull coolant from the block drain and put heated water back in the water manifold at the top of the engine. This way, you are assured the heat is where you want it, throughout the cylinders, head, and intake. I do not see how the heater in the water pump can efficiently heat the water in the whole block. If you do it right, you do not have to drain down the whole system to install the tank type heaters. You lose some antifreeze, but it is easier than a whole system drain. Have the truck cold, leave the radiator cap in place, and work fast, having the new fittings in hand ready to put back in. The partial vacuum the system gets when the drain is removed keeps much coolant from coming out.
Regards Marti

 

[73X]

If you put the heating element down low enough in the water pump it not only heats the water in the pump area but through a process called Thermosyphon will create water flow.
The water being heated is less dense than the cold water so it tries to rise and the cooler water tries to fall. In itself creating a flow. Thereby heating at some point and to some degree all of the water.
The engine and all of it's components act like a very large heat sink to pull the heat out that is going in and that in effect is what keeps it all warmer than without a heater.
A lot of old tractor engines used to work this way with no water pump at all. I had several Farmall Cubs that operate on this system with no water pump at all and it works quite well.
Your system I am quite sure works very well I just happen to not have first hand knowledge of them. An immersion block heater will to a much smaller degree do the same thing without any extra pumps, parts or tanks. That being said simple means less for me to keep working.

 

[AN/ARC186]

I still prefer the tank types that pull coolant from the block drain and put heated water back in the water manifold at the top of the engine. This way, you are assured the heat is where you want it, throughout the cylinders, head, and intake. I do not see how the heater in the water pump can efficiently heat the water in the whole block. If you do it right, you do not have to drain down the whole system to install the tank type heaters. You lose some antifreeze, but it is easier than a whole system drain. Have the truck cold, leave the radiator cap in place, and work fast, having the new fittings in hand ready to put back in. The partial vacuum the system gets when the drain is removed keeps much coolant from coming out.
Regards Marti

I'm with you on this, installed a tank type on an old dodge truck I had, used brass valves with brass close nipples to screw into block and manifold, then put barbed fittings on other side of valves. I figured that way, if I ever had to replace it or the hoses, no problem, turn off the valves, replace whatever needs it and turn em back on! Now just have to get time to do it to my deuce.

 

[pooka]

Hey guys, just bought a heater from westfolk, I have an A3,Cat, I hope it fits, anybody have any input??? Thanks JMC

 

[Rgdl]

Can someone post up a link to Westfolk's website so I can see what he has to offer.

I just bought an M818.

It's been -30C here for a week.

I will need a block heater.

 

[tm america]

he has them listed in the classifieds on this site.or you can just pm him