Block Heater

[BIG_RED]

Not too hard. This is how I did it, twice (in my defense I am not an "expert" and I believe the "proper" way to do it is a drilling a hole in the frost plug, threading a special puller into the hole and tightening down till it pops out. If you're like me and have no idea where to get such a tool, didn't have the resources to make one and need this done quick - read on):

Find a solid stick of metal (I've used a piece of 1/2" threaded rod I found at a hardware store in a pinch, any solid strong metal stick that won't bend and is 1/2" ish in diameter will work fine). Drain your coolant and Jack up your front axle on SOLID Jackstands (or concrete blocks, etc) so that you can put the metal rod up through the (driver's side) wheel well and onto the center frost plug at an angle and still have room to swing a hammer without wacking the ground (you may need to cut down your rod.. I think mine was about 2 feet long). Then put the end of the rod on the frost plug at about the 3 o'clock position (so in the depressed round frost plug towards the rear of the engine block) and wack on the other end of the rod with the hammer. Be gentle-ish at first, go slow. Try to direct the force "into" the engine, not rearward, so that you don't out-of-round the frost plug hole in the block. The idea is that the frost plug will turn in it's hole, with the rearmost (realitive to truck) side going into the block and the frontmost side coming out of the block. As soon as enough of the edge of the plug pops out at the front, grab it with vice-grips and yank like crazy. More coolant will come out of the engine - so keep a pail under there. You do not want to wack the frost plug right into the engine block.. it is not impossible to fish out of there.. but avoid it, it takes time. Good Luck!

 

[francisf16]

After learning my M1009 wouldn't start at 19F, I put a NAPA 600W block heater in last night. I used a long socket extension and hammer method. I put it on a timer to come on at 0400 for an 0630 start. It fired up on first turn of the key this morning. I agree, it takes longer to drain coolant than to put it in and fishing the old plug out of the block is a huge PITA!

 

[Iceman3005]

@BIG_RED I looked up zerostart website, I called them and they stated that there heaters are designed for extreme cold weather where temps fall well below -40. They said there is minimal heat loss in the hoses, and if heat loss is a concern they can sell an insulator for the hoses. Plus this was a lot easier to install then trying to take out a freeze plug.

 

[BIG_RED]

@BIG_RED I looked up zerostart website, I called them and they stated that there heaters are designed for extreme cold weather where temps fall well below -40. They said there is minimal heat loss in the hoses, and if heat loss is a concern they can sell an insulator for the hoses. Plus this was a lot easier to install then trying to take out a freeze plug.

My "in-block" block heaters are made by zerostart too. Decent stuff from them. I'm sure the circulating heaters are designed for -40*, I'm sure they work, and I'd bet where you live you made the right decision. I didn't mean to say "YOU'RE WRONG" or undermine your opinion. I'm sorry if I came off that way. Didn't mean it like that.

What I meant was that, up here - the block heaters that are IN the block do a better job keeping the block warm. They don't have a pump to break. And yes, heat loss in hoses is actually a problem with 35 MPH winds and -40* temps. Obviously I live somewhere unusually cold (by most member's standards) and frequently find myself further north were there is basically nothing and the winds get insane. Friends of mine have used copper pipe foam insulation for wrapping the heater hoses under trucks that run to rear heaters (in vehicles equipped with them) because they have trouble heating the cabs without. I would imagine that would be cheaper than a zerostart kit if you were looking to go that route.

To clarify my opinion: In block heaters are best, others work depending where you live, ymmv. Also I'm talking equal wattage. A 300 watt in block might not be as good as a 1500 watt circulator. Have never seen <600 watt on a diesel here.

 

[swbradley1]

I would 2nd the "no stick on heaters on the fuel tank" rule.. Around here, the fuel companies add the winter additives for us (and charge $0.10/Quart more) so our fuel doesn't gel up. I'd recommend the chemical fix rather than heating the tank with electric heaters. Sounds safer and not much more expensive. Good luck!

Safer, yeah, that's me.................

 

[JSF01]

I am curious if there is an easy test to see what wattage a block heater is. When I got my 1009 it already had one in it. It does a good job of keeping the engine warm for example this morning it was -14 out and when I went to start it the glow only came on for about 3 seconds than the truck fired right up, I'd just like to know.

 

[porkysplace]

Not too hard. This is how I did it, twice (in my defense I am not an "expert" and I believe the "proper" way to do it is a drilling a hole in the frost plug, threading a special puller into the hole and tightening down till it pops out. If you're like me and have no idea where to get such a tool, didn't have the resources to make one and need this done quick - read on):

Find a solid stick of metal (I've used a piece of 1/2" threaded rod I found at a hardware store in a pinch, any solid strong metal stick that won't bend and is 1/2" ish in diameter will work fine). Drain your coolant and Jack up your front axle on SOLID Jackstands (or concrete blocks, etc) so that you can put the metal rod up through the (driver's side) wheel well and onto the center frost plug at an angle and still have room to swing a hammer without wacking the ground (you may need to cut down your rod..

Never use concrete blocks for blocking a vehicle , simply setting it down easily can crack them and they can fail without any notice , use approved jack stands or solid wood blocking

 

[zway]

Outstanding......thanks for all the great advice and direction guys. Sounds like I can tackle this myself. Ordered my 1000W heater yesterday, so just waiting for it to come in then I will be installing. I'll keep you guys posted on how it turns out. Thanks again!

 

[BIG_RED]

I am curious if there is an easy test to see what wattage a block heater is. When I got my 1009 it already had one in it. It does a good job of keeping the engine warm for example this morning it was -14 out and when I went to start it the glow only came on for about 3 seconds than the truck fired right up, I'd just like to know.

You can buy wattage meters that you plug things into and they tell you on a digital readout how much juice the load is using. I got one by "blue planet" for $20 to check how much power a computer installation was using. If you get one - make sure to get one that can handle a full 15 amp load, so you don't have to worry about what you plug into it. good luck!

 

[roddydog]

I use a zero start 1500 watt tank style circulator pump, it flows coolant through the pump/heater then through the engine on to the radiator then the heater core and back to the pump/heater. If I have the defroster lever open it keeps the window clean from snow and frost and keeps engine/heater core/radiator warm. Was about 0 degrees here a couple of weeks ago, glow plugs came on for 4 seconds and shut off, engine fired right up!

I was looking at such a device for my 6.5, but couldn't find the 5/8" threaded plug in the block the kit says to use. Is this how you hooked yours up or did you intercept the lower RAD hose like the instruction manual says is an alternative to the threaded plug? If you used the 5/8" adaptor where's the plug you remove???

Thanks!

 

[Iceman3005]

Drain plug in the radiator, PM sent.

 

[acz62]

Page in Manual

Can anyone tell me what page in the manual the block heater is on. Apparently someone removed the block heater from my M1009

 

[Matt65]

Can anyone tell me what page in the manual the block heater is on. Apparently someone removed the block heater from my M1009

Some of the CUCVs had a Winterization Kit:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/4553-arctic-kit-question.html#post38985

I found mention of the Winteridation kit in several locations. Use the link in my signature to access the PDF TMs. CTRL+F will open a search window that is helpful.


TM 9-2320-289-20​

Section Ill. WINTERIZATION KIT ENGINE HEATER MAINTENANCE​

11-13. WINTERIZATION KIT ENGINE HEATER MAINTENANCE INDEX.

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[acz62]

Matt I had no luck with the link. I have a physical manual but it does not appear to have the same page numbers or Section