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bobbed deuce with no modification to springs?

joshua180422

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I have tried searching and found no reasons you could not just pull out the rear axle and drive it. I am sure there may be a reason but why? i crawled under there and looked at it and to me it looks like it would work.
 

Recovry4x4

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Either look just a little closer or do it and report back. You may have overlooked something.
 

91W350

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You would need some way to stop the trunion from pivoting or your bed will sit on top of the tires. Without the second axle housing, there is nothing to limit spring rotation.
 

whyme

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are you asking about removing the entire axle assembly, the axle shafts, or the drive shaft between the two?

the term bobbing refers to removing an axle thus only 4 wheels on the truck while shortening the frame. some have opted to retain the full length of the truck and remove an axle for better drivability but you do lose some payload capacity

if your looking to disable one of the axles on the truck and not remove it then it is best to pull the axle shafts from the center axle and retain it as a pusher. cross country might be impacted but payload should remain. its been widely discussed as to why its not good to simply pull the middle drive shaft on these trucks.

there is no way to remove an axle entirely without changing the suspension.
 

Recovry4x4

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Let me add this. If you were to chain up the rear springs and remove the aft axle, you will drastically change the suspension geometry. To get an idea of how it will handle, jack up the aft axle and secure it with chains, remove the inner drive shaft and take a nice cruise. I will sure feel like you installed power steering but to be honest, its going to compromise balance.
 

joshua180422

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I am looking to remove the axle all together. I believe what u guys are saying when I was looking at the leaf springs it looked like since it was clamped in the center the two sides would be independent. I thought I could remove the axle and all I would have would be the leaf spring sticking straight out the back. I just recently bought it and am very eager to get to work on it more eager then my funds will allow so I was looking for a free temporary bob. Back to the drawing board.
 

Recovry4x4

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I hear ya. Look at the spring as a teeter totter. Like a real teeter totter, if one person jumps off, the other one slams to the ground. Same principle, just upside down.
 

JeffShoots

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Not a problem Man, I've had a few :beer: by noon...you know it's 5:30 somewhere :)

I am looking to remove the axle all together. I believe what u guys are saying when I was looking at the leaf springs it looked like since it was clamped in the center the two sides would be independent. I thought I could remove the axle and all I would have would be the leaf spring sticking straight out the back. I just recently bought it and am very eager to get to work on it more eager then my funds will allow so I was looking for a free temporary bob. Back to the drawing board.
 

BadMastard

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Not to hijack the thread, but let's imagine I want to keep the full bed length too, BUT i can change to the front springs from a deuce with the plates and bolts and all. My questions are this. Can I keep the current drive shaft and leave the mid axle where it it, OR can I lengthen the drive axle and use the same position as the rear axle? What do we think or know the problems would be, other than reduced capacity? Many thanks as usual.
 

mktopside

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:p

I will be the lone dissenter here.


Everyone is lying to you, they're just jealous because you had an awesome idea. Your idea is totally legit, you should do it tonight and post pics of the awesomeness!!

Just use jackstands......or a crane..... or a friend you won't miss.


The things in life I know the most about are the things I learned the hard way. This is no different, start wrenching! You'll be a deuce suspension expert by 10:00pm
 

whyme

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Not to hijack the thread, but let's imagine I want to keep the full bed length too, BUT i can change to the front springs from a deuce with the plates and bolts and all. My questions are this. Can I keep the current drive shaft and leave the mid axle where it it, OR can I lengthen the drive axle and use the same position as the rear axle? What do we think or know the problems would be, other than reduced capacity? Many thanks as usual.
ideally you'd wanna calculate the best position based on the load you intend to haul to maintain balance and stability

id prob say the best position would be centered between the two or slightly rear of that. id suggest springs off of the m105 trailer or off of one of the Gen trailers (more capacity), i dont think the deuce springs would give you a lot of payload (6-7k max for the spring) and the bed alone weighs 2k+ in addition to the frame ect. drive shaft would need to be lengthened or add a carrier and short shaft.
 

Recovry4x4

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Not to hijack the thread, but let's imagine I want to keep the full bed length too, BUT i can change to the front springs from a deuce with the plates and bolts and all. My questions are this. Can I keep the current drive shaft and leave the mid axle where it it, OR can I lengthen the drive axle and use the same position as the rear axle? What do we think or know the problems would be, other than reduced capacity? Many thanks as usual.
You can certainly single out you axles and keep a full length bed. To keep your geometry correct you should place the axle exactly where the trunion axle is right now. This will require driveshaft mods.

If you were to keep the fwd axle at its current locaion it would be tough to tow trailers with the overhang and the more you put in the more it will unload the front tires. Yeah you could do it but you really shouldn't.
 

mendo

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You can certainly single out you axles and keep a full length bed. To keep your geometry correct you should place the axle exactly where the trunion axle is right now. This will require driveshaft mods.

If you were to keep the fwd axle at its current locaion it would be tough to tow trailers with the overhang and the more you put in the more it will unload the front tires. Yeah you could do it but you really shouldn't.

Actually since both the rear axles are supported off of the center of both the rear axles, your effective overhang is right where the springs pivot. if you put the single rear axle there, you will have the same effective overhang.
 

Recovry4x4

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You can certainly single out you axles and keep a full length bed. To keep your geometry correct you should place the axle exactly where the trunion axle is right now. This will require driveshaft mods.

If you were to keep the fwd axle at its current locaion it would be tough to tow trailers with the overhang and the more you put in the more it will unload the front tires. Yeah you could do it but you really shouldn't.
Actually since both the rear axles are supported off of the center of both the rear axles, your effective overhang is right where the springs pivot. if you put the single rear axle there, you will have the same effective overhang.
Exactly what I said. The trunion axle is where the springs pivot.
 
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BadMastard

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Tough crowd! but funny. Ok, so far the consensus seems to be best location is where the axles pivots are to maintain the closest to correct geometry. So my next question is, what would be the downside of placing it where the rearmost axle is now. Longer driveshaft for certain, but does that have any negatives? Would there be more stability by placing it to the rear?
 

91W350

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Your rear overhang would be much less, giving you a better departure angle. On the flip side, you will be much more likely to crush the fuel tank or belly the truck out going over ledges or terraces. A simple carrier bearing would take care of long shaft issues. Glen
 

Recovry4x4

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Obviously, you didn't say it right. DERRR
City talk is not my primary language.

Tough crowd! but funny. Ok, so far the consensus seems to be best location is where the axles pivots are to maintain the closest to correct geometry. So my next question is, what would be the downside of placing it where the rearmost axle is now. Longer driveshaft for certain, but does that have any negatives? Would there be more stability by placing it to the rear?
Frame stress under a heavy load is all I can think of. The deuce frame is not designed for loads to be distributed across the span of its length. A stock deuce w/w is nears the front tire capacity empty. Any load between the front and rear axle all the way to the back may eclipse the front tire rating. I'll try to type a better response when I'm not behind the wheel.
 

91W350

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Mine weighed 14,200 today, 6,800 on the front axle. Maybe I should move some tools to the bed or build under box storage. It was empty except for a medium tow bar and a set of M105 metal bows. Glen
 
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