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.Thank You Mullaney. You have been a big help.
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Glad I could help - and speak up if you run across other things that need to be talked out!
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Checking Brakes and Steering on My 83 M35A2
- Thread starter JHutch
- Start date
Glad I could help - and speak up if you run across other things that need to be talked out!
I think The brake system leaks need to be addressed. The right front wheel leaks fluid in wheel well in bottom today after the first ride. Brakes worked good. Added round a third what I put in before the ride. I looked at brake lines - looked dry and didnāt see any line damage. Think leaks at the master cylinder underneath thereās fluid. I will look more at it. Thank You
The brake system needs looking into. Right front has fluid in wheel well in bottom and only after one drive. I added around a third of what I added after I got Her. Also bottom of master cylinder has fluid on it. Boot in front where plunger is looks good and not blown up in size.
Plan to drive it tomorrow farther than the first/ nice easy drive I hope. Maybe getting to 40-45 mph.
Thanks
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Iād recommend you not worry about adding any more brake fluid until you fix the leak. Personally, I wonāt drive my trucks with leaking brakes. I had a sudden complete brake failure because I didnāt fully understand the brake system. Your call, regardless the brakes need a full inspection and repair as necessary. The #1 reason any of my brakes leak is because the cylinder seals have failed. I have extra parts to rebuild my wheel cylinders for my 4 M35ās on hand always. Best way to figure out the issue to jack up the offending wheel(s), remove said wheel(s) and remove the brake drum. Be very particular about following all steps in the technical manual, in this case I believe it is TM 9-2320-209-20. That TM was rereleased as TM 9-2320-361-20. I recommend you use the 361-20 as Iāve found it much easier to follow. TM 9-2320-209-20P is where youāll find the various part numbers, with which you can order new parts from several internet suppliers and vendors on this website. The first time working on any new type brakes has always been a pain for me. It always takes at least twice as long to work on the first brake drum/cylinder/hoses as any subsequent repairs. I donāt recall if you said which brake fluid you use. I only use DOT 5 brake fluid. My wheel cylinders last far longer than ones in which DOT 3 has been used. If there is a possibility that you have mixed types of fluid, again, I donāt recommend you drive your truck until she is fully up to snuff. If you have mixed fluid, youāll need to go through all of your brakes before any really strenuous driving. If you donāt already have one, purchase or maybe borrow a brake bleeding device and only use it on the one truck.
Thatās it for now.
Good luck and keep me posted.
Thank You. You are SO Correct. I will be checking into the leak at master. May be a loose line or:: but I know the fluid on wheel well probably means bad wheel cylinder seal.
Thank You.
I have done car and pickup drum and disk brakes. Nothing of this size. I will be looking into the leak at the Master. And the front wheel where the leak is has got to be worked on. Probably in time all the wheel seals need changing. Truck 42 yrs old. The drivers front side where the new zipper boot is may be the only wheel I sorta feel like seals OK. Thank you for saving me from my ( I canāt wait to see what she can do self) I have been a long time machinist till I retired. Commercial and Military parts.
Thanks: biscuitwhisler37 : Mullaney and jeffhuey1n
Thanks: biscuitwhisler37 : Mullaney and jeffhuey1n
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@JHutch , If you have done pickup and car brakes - this is very much the same. Jack the tire up off the ground just barely. That way when you take the wheel off the hub you don't have to lift it as high. And when you put it back on the hub, you can lift it with a flat bar to lift it with...
You may need to adjust the brakes in to remove the hub. A lot like a truck or car.
Yes Sir... You definitely need to investigate the leaky wheel cylinder. Might only need to service that one wheel but like you said at 40+ years old it may be worth investigating ALL 6 wheels. I also doubt that there is DOT-5 fluid in your system. DOT-3 is what it came with. Any way you go, you need to go one way or the other...
Question :: after the fix and adding fluid I will stay away from Dot 3. Will Dot 4 be OK or go to Dot 5?
Thanks
biscuitwhistler37
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That seems to be a manner of personal preference, some guys run 3, some run 4, some run 5. The common consensus is 5 makes the wheel cylinders last the longest, but it's also the most expensive.
Good info here, lots to read.
Why do I need DOT 5 brake fluid in my Deuce 1/2 ?
Why ? I'm sure this has been covered, abstractly, several times over the last 20 years, so if you know why, can you break it down for me, please ? Because I'm not convinced .
www.steelsoldiers.com
Good info here, lots to read.
Would this bleeder do. I have a decent compressor/ old style. Motor / belt / sorta big tank
Had 4 tree trunks cut to size to fit under front bumper. Had them cut to 2 different lengths. Will still have safety stand under axel and will use Bottle jack / and try and get some metal plate 3/4 or 1ā would be nice under the jack and Stand.
I may have a REAL Good Truck Mechanic do it, but for now I will keep preparing like itās gonna be me.
I appreciate BigTime Your Help.
Thank You
Had 4 tree trunks cut to size to fit under front bumper. Had them cut to 2 different lengths. Will still have safety stand under axel and will use Bottle jack / and try and get some metal plate 3/4 or 1ā would be nice under the jack and Stand.
I may have a REAL Good Truck Mechanic do it, but for now I will keep preparing like itās gonna be me.
I appreciate BigTime Your Help.
Thank You
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The set up you are looking at seems to fit the bill. I personally donāt use that much equipment. A simple brake bleeder, a wrench to fit on the bleeder fitting and a container to catch fluid.
Start by filling the brake system. Then pump the brakes a few times to try and build up pressure. Next, go underneath, starting at the recommended position, and open the fitting slightly to help air escape. Then itās just a matter of working your way through the system. I try to have a helper with me to pump the brakes.
Jacking up the truck isnāt really necessary unless you are like me with a mid section thatās got too many inches around. In my less fat days, I could use a creeper and scoot around under the truck.
The TM is the most important reference you use. Follow those instructions to the letter in order to get a positive outcome.
Great. But I gotta jack her up to change wheel cylinder seals. Wish I didnāt have to jack her up. Getting a 20 ton bottle jack and truck safely stands. Metal plate.
Hoping to have a Real Good Truck Mechanic be the lead on this one. I hope to help him. Heās busy so gonna be a bit. I will be doing all lube and maintenance that I can.
I can get under her, nice sheās pretty high up
Thanks You.
I havenāt gotten the bleeder yet. I have always either been in pumping the brake pedal or down under at the bleeder valves. I read and heard I can Gravity Bleed it. Plus You saying just pump brake then go and crack bleeder. Didnāt know you can do it by yourself. Another Good thing to know. Great. Thank You
Bleeder valve on air assist pod on front / back end had square plug to take off and put in air compressor oil ( one of the videos suggested that to do). Will be looking in manual for Complete system parts. Have checked under a bit didnāt see any damage to brake line. But need to go thru it Again Very Slowly and Completely.
Thanks
Thanks
