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Choosing Between M923A1 and M923A2

brasco

Member
189
1
16
Location
Southeast of Indianapolis, In
I am still trying to choose between buying a M923A1 and a M923A2. For me, I think the real difference will be the operating cost. Operationally, I don’t see a big difference between the turbo engines vs. the normally aspirated engines other than fuel burn. I see some people on SS getting 5 or maybe 6 MPG on the A1 and maybe as high as 10 on the A2. I plan on driving 2000-3000 miles per year on local trips. This means a fuel difference of per year of about $800 to $1000. Are there other expenses of the turbo A2 variant that I need to be aware of? For example, is the turbo reliable? Does one vehicle require more maintenance than the other? Other factors I need to consider?

Thanks,
Don
 

MtnSnow

New member
1,466
14
0
Location
NSL, UT
Turbo's are very reliable. I will say if you live in a mountainous area you will want a turbo'd 5ton over a naturally aspirated engine. Maintenance costs will be about the same between the two motors.
 

MtnSnow

New member
1,466
14
0
Location
NSL, UT
Don't let the CTIS stop you from purchasing an A2 as when they work they are great. When they fail at an expensive part just bypass it and still enjoy having turbo charged motor :)
 

twinturb089

New member
24
0
0
Location
danielsville,pa
I bought my first m923a1 back in june and loved it........until i drove a 923a2. I could not sell my a1 fast enuff! The a1 has no power! is loud as **** in the cab,and gets around 6 miles to the gallon.You can barely talk to a passenger in the a1 as its so loud.The a2 are quieter than a dodge ram with the cummins.They start up without the motor turning a full revolution when cranking,i have had some that got a easy 10 mpg.I live in an area with a lot of hills and it got old moving the shifter to 1-2 gear all the time to try to crawl up a hill. All a2 for me,but there is a butt for every seat. Try to drive one of each and make your choice.As far as the ctis..... if you have problems,install 6 schrader valves in the wheels and disconnect the box on the shifter,its simple.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,842
654
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
I prefer the A2. I can turn up the fuel and governor very easily and yes it will be much more powerful than the A1. I had an A1 with a motor dated 2010, it started easily and had as much power if not more than my A2's before I turned up the fuel and no waiting for the turbo to spool. The A2's are definetly quieter I have radios in 2 and you can drive along listening to music or have a conversation with a passenger.
Will
 

joesco

Member
442
1
18
Location
Hampstead, NH
My only concern, in my decision (preferred an A2), was registration and insurance. The A2 was four times the cost of my M931 for both!
 

VPed

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,094
276
83
Location
Clint, TX
Something that I think is a factor is that the A1s are usually older than 25 years and the A2s are newer. That comes into play (at least with me) on the cost of insurance. I have my trucks on collector car insurance that I could not get if they were less than 25 years old. Some states also have that stipulation to register as historic, collector, etc. for cheaper.
 

TacticalDoc

Member
602
26
18
Location
Otisville MI
Something that I think is a factor is that the A1s are usually older than 25 years and the A2s are newer. That comes into play (at least with me) on the cost of insurance. I have my trucks on collector car insurance that I could not get if they were less than 25 years old. Some states also have that stipulation to register as historic, collector, etc. for cheaper.
Check your state laws about antique criteria. In FL it doesn't matter the age or size if its a military vehicle. It could be a 2014 and it qualifies from what I understand. Insurance is around 300 here.
 

mcmullag

Member
919
13
18
Location
Colorado Springs, CO region
If I was you, check out lots of A2's on GL, look at the pics and vids very closely. I really like the idea that these things have been thru refurb.
I had a 1990 that went thru rebuild in 2008 and man was it clean all over. I now have a 1992 that went thru refurb/rebuild in 2009. It did not get a paint job though but you can see lots of 'replaced' mechanical stuff. Plate screwed to dash states mileage at rebuild. When I picked it up in Nov 2013, had only 80 miles on it since rebuild when compared to the odometer, my friend got one too and his had 100 miles since 2009 rebuild, no markings on them, appears never assigned to a unit after rebuild. The engine area on these rebuild units look great, like all new stuff. You can see new nuts and bolts all over the truck.012.jpg
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,341
329
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
If you want a reliable truck DO NOT buy a refurb! They look nice but they always have more problems than original trucks. Take my word for it or not. I only have around 30 of them in my yard, almost all of which I've driven home.
 

reset2

Active member
166
60
28
Location
Myersville MD
Hey 5 toners
I have been looking at the A2s myself. I was told what is in the over sized box on the passenger side below the door but forgot just what the box held. Do any of you know why some trucks have this larger box? Thanks
 

gijoel

Member
41
11
8
Location
San Bernardino, CA
I registered my M923A1 and M-1078 as recreational vehicles. My cost for the M923A1 was $225 for the year. The M-1078 was $443. Not sure why the difference. I highly recommend you not register this truck as commercial in California, but as a recreational vehicle. My fee for the M923A1 was $127 and the M-1078 was $168.
 

Carlo

New member
1,364
20
0
Location
palazzago italia
I have both and I find pros and cons in both. I pull the APC with the A1 for it's got more grunt for me. Big block is big block in my book. I love the quite with the A2 and the turbo wine. I love the A2's ability to start so easy. But when I open the hood on the A1 and look at that block that eats up all the space under the hood it just makes my knees weak! Massive motor!
 
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