Civy truck to MIL trailer wiring info

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aczlan

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Upstate, NY, USA
So if i just go buy the led replacements for all the bulbs on the trailer i would be fine even thou all of them say 12v on the packages.
Check the specs on the bulb. SOME are rated for a range of voltages (10-30v is common).
Here are a few from Amazon that are rated for 10-30 volts DC:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YT9L16
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CGZXRM
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CGYD0K
No connection to the seller or product other than they came up in a quick Google search.


Aaron Z
 
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GGimbert

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Florida
Went a different route

What a great thread. But after studying all the different way to skin this cat I was sitting out back trying to decide which way to go and it hit me. The magnetic stick on trailer LED lights I got from Harbor Freight are about the same size as the mil light housing. Since the magnets were useless to hold them on over 25 mph anyway I took them apart and with a bit of trimming they fit right in the mil housing. An added bonus was there was plenty of wiring and the plug I needed sitting right there too.

Cost me an afternoon of removing the mil wiring, housing internals and then installing the new stuff. Out of pocket = $29.99 + tax.

Used these - http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_4640.jpg

Buy them here - 12 Volt Magnetic LED Towing Light Kit


Picks of the install in post 15 here - http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/87899-out-old-rusty-unique-new-m416-2.html#post1131048
 
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Fudge0514

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What a great thread. But after studying all the different way to skin this cat I was sitting out back trying to decide which way to go and it hit me. The magnetic stick on trailer LED lights I got from Harbor Freight are about the same size as the mil light housing. Since the magnets were useless to hold them on over 25 mph anyway I took them apart and with a bit of trimming they fit right in the mil housing. An added bonus was there was plenty of wiring and the plug I needed sitting right there too.

Cost me an afternoon of removing the mil wiring, housing internals and then installing the new stuff. Out of pocket = $29.99 + tax.

Used these - http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...ab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_4640.jpg

Buy them here - 12 Volt Magnetic LED Towing Light Kit


Picks of the install in post 15 here - http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/87899-out-old-rusty-unique-new-m416-2.html#post1131048
Let's see some pictures!
 

Blueegg

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This thread has been very helpful to me and here are my two solutions to the the trailer plug problem:
The 1st was my M416 with a newer wiring harness. I bought a receptacle and soldered in a 4 way plug. Its heavy for the 4 way plug but with a small velcro strap it works fine. Cost was about $30.
The second was an M101a2 with can from GL with the tailer plug missing. After some investigation with a wiring tester to find which wire went where I soldered in a 12in 4 way extension. With some heat shrink and red tape it works as well. Cost was minimal since I already had all the materials.
Just to see how it would work I also had some red 12 V LED 67 bulbs which worked great.
Thanks to several on this thread who gave me these ideas.

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zyrtecx

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16
Location
Western NC
I just finished making a converter box from a trailer connector MS75021-2 to a 4 way round connector, put everything in an electrical junction box and put a handle on two sides to strap it to the trailer frame rail.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

Ratch

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Since I'm not a purist with these trailers anymore, and I have a dozen mil intervehicular connectors, I've started cutting off the mil plug and putting an RV plug directly on the military wire.
In the past, I've found the little 4-conductor flat wire harness deteriorates quickly in the sun, and can't tolerate any abuse whatsoever. The military cable, however, lasts quite a while, and can take all kinds of abuse.

I finally got around to identifying the wires inside the outer jacket. While it appears they're just a bunch of black and pink wires, there are actually
stripes barelyvisible on them. So instead of ringing them out out with every new connector I make, I opted to write them down this time. This might even make it possible to wire on a new $8 connector in the Walmart parking lot near the GL lot, and be done with converting... :)


Right turn/stoplight Green wire - 22-460 Pin J - black w/ white stripe
Left turn/stop lightYellow wire - 22-461 Pin B - red w/ black stripe
Tail/markerlightsBrown wire - 21 Pin E - red w/ no stripe
Ground White wire -90 Pin D - black w/ purple stripe


Also, I may have mentioned it here or somewhere else on the forum, but I've abandoned the 1003 bulbs. When I convert to 12v now, I take the 24v mil turn/stop bulb and place it in the running light position. At 12 volts, it lights almost equal to the 1003.
So I buy a pair of 1156's and an RV connector, and that's all that's needed to convert it. I don't have a 24v mil truck, so I don't need dual voltage.
 

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warpigbbq

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Can someone shed some light on what LED bulbs you have bought to replace the standard bulbs? 1156 or 1157? Also what color did you choose?
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Can someone shed some light on what LED bulbs you have bought to replace the standard bulbs? 1156 or 1157? Also what color did you choose?
Howdy,
Most just simple replace the type they have. If you have incandescent, then you use incandescent bulbs.

PU-798A Unit = Mep-803a on a LTT-TQG trailer (M1102)
All the bulbs are standard incandescent. So swap out the bulbs for the 12v counterparts for a brighter safer day.

Rear brake, turn light bulbs #1683 24v bulbs swamped to #1156 12v bulbs
Marker lights all round #1251 24v bulbs swapped to #97 12v bulbs
Trailer plug =cut off mil end, cheap 7-way plug attached.

I am now all at a 12 volt lighting. Yes, brighter and safer.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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You could always swap to omnivolt leds. I can tow with an army truck or civy and not have to worry about it. They work on 10-30v.
 
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