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Clutch slipping, can it be adjusted?

crazywelder72

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About 2 days ago when I was going up a little hill in 4th gear, I noticed the rpm's started to shoot up a bit without noticing it pull any harder. As soon as I felt it I let off the pedal and everything was normal again. Was this a sign of the clutch slipping? It has happened a few times since then.

Also I have noticed I have had a tremendous amount of trouble downshifting in the past few days also? It wants to grind the gears. Up shifting isn't a problem at all. Is this a clutch issue also?

i just got exhausted looking thru tm's. I didn't have much luck. TM 9-2320-209-20-3-1 chapter 3 (page 67). I was looking for clutch plate info and all this was linkages. I need to reread it.

Any step-by-step threads? looking for any helpful info, maybe I can adjust it to keep it from slipping? (but where and how)
 

patracy

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Sudden rise of RPMs with no speed change is clutch slippage.

There is an adjustment point on the rod from the pedal to the fork. If the clutch isn't fully releasing, that can cause the shifting issue. Upshifting doesn't normal show this issue since the disc is actually going to be slowing down. Downshifting will show it more since the disc is having to "spin up" in speed, if it's grabbing that causes problems with the syncros.
 

Goose2448

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I cant help a whole lot here, but my work truck F550 7.3 ZF6 speed, Grinds going up and down once and a while with the clutch to the floor(we know the syncros are bad). I checked the clutch fluid when it got REALLY light but still worked, and the little cup was empty. Topped it off and its only slightly better. But if I remember correctly the Deuce is not a hydro clutch. As far as slippage, is your fuel turned up? Or maybe its just time for a new clutch.
 

Speddmon

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The only real adjustment is for the clutch pedal free travel. As long as you have the free travel the clutch is adjusted. It's possible that you may have some broken fingers on the pressure plate. Or could have some fluid saturation on the clutch disk from a leaking transmission or rear main seal.
 

crazywelder72

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I didn't even think about saturation. Over the past few weeks I did manage to flood the crankcase, twice! I know it poured out the front main seal. Probably did the same to the rear. Will it "dry out" or do I have to service it somehow?
 

73m819

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I cant help a whole lot here, but my work truck F550 7.3 ZF6 speed, Grinds going up and down once and a while with the clutch to the floor(we know the syncros are bad). I checked the clutch fluid when it got REALLY light but still worked, and the little cup was empty. Topped it off and its only slightly better. But if I remember correctly the Deuce is not a hydro clutch. As far as slippage, is your fuel turned up? Or maybe its just time for a new clutch.
On a hyd. clutch you NEED to bleed the system
 

Goose2448

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Ron, please tell my mechanic that. He has yet to get me a spare, he cant find a rim at a junk yard...., and keeps telling me that the syncros have been bad since they got the truck. I did pump the clutch peddle a few times when I added fluid, but have no idea on how to bleed it. Sorry for hyjacking Crazy.

The inspection cover is on the bell housing. Should not be too hard to find.
 

Speddmon

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The inspection plate is a rectangular plate right behind the fording plug. Take it off and have someone work the clutch in and out while you spray a couple of cans of brake cleaner up in and all over the clutch surfaces you can get it on
 

m16ty

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Usually a leaking rear main won't get oil on the clutch with the fording hole open. If you've got a oily clutch it's more than likely from the trans.
 

crazywelder72

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The inspection plate is a rectangular plate right behind the fording plug. Take it off and have someone work the clutch in and out while you spray a couple of cans of brake cleaner up in and all over the clutch surfaces you can get it on

Yes it was easy to find. The part that I could see when removed the cover looked clean but that's the back side of the pressure plate.

The white chezzy grease on my finger was from the outside near the forging plug would be.

I used 2 cans. I did it with the clutch engaged and disengaged. I even did it with the motor running and the clutch in both positions. I wasn't sure if it would blow back like from a fan but it didn't.

I took it for a ride about an Hr later.. Still slipped. I haven't given up on trying to dry it out but I am not feeling to optimistic either.

Is there any step by step threads (with pics :popcorn:) for starting from the beginning on replacing a clutch?

I was in the TM's and found the clutch replacement part but then you have to hunt for the trany part of the instructions etc...
 

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crazywelder72

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No... But i will.

I didnt ignore it I just went for the quicker of the 2 things to try. It was a rainy day and i wanted to do something quick.

Also i am a firm believer of trying one thing at a time. If I did both and the problem was gone I wouldn't know which fixed it.
 

crazywelder72

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The plug has always been out. (I cant even find the spot where it is supposed to be stored) the schmeg on my finger was from just to the rear of the hole.

Nothing came out from the cover and the break clean run off seemed pretty clean to my surprise.
 

dgardner

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No... But i will.

I didnt ignore it I just went for the quicker of the 2 things to try. It was a rainy day and i wanted to do something quick.

Also i am a firm believer of trying one thing at a time. If I did both and the problem was gone I wouldn't know which fixed it.
Agreed about the scientific method. But honestly, the pedal adjustment probably would have been quicker and easier. Definitely less messy. [thumbzup]

Be sure to check your trans fluid level while you're under there. Use the "Second Knuckle" rule, as detailed elsewhere on the forum.
 
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