Coolant spraying out

[TedO]

On the same note. Do NOT just change 1 head gasket. Change both. I have seen guys change just 1 head gasket. IDK why. And getting the heads checked and re-done as needed is 99.9% of the job. Bolts are just easier and as effective. I stick by my old saying. Bolts lasted 30 years. And turning them a 1/4 turn past torque is really just that simple. Do as you wish. Even back in the days when I was doing warranty work on GM diesels we used bolts. Have a great Holiday season. I think if you redo your head gaskets and have the heads checked and corrected as needed you will be good for many years to come. I just started pulling the engines and going over everything I could and taking care of all the external seals and gaskets. I have Easter find M1008 engine on the floor now and am going to go over everything on that as well. That is coming spring 2017.

a few questions as I plan this job:
1) should I replace the fuel injectors?
2) I am going to replace the injector pump. Any problem with the ones on ebay?
3) Should I replace the water pump too?
4) Its says in the manual that I need a speacial tool to remove the injectors, and something called a crowfoot attachment, and manifold covers. Do I really need these?
5) What is a good head bolt sealing compound?
6) Am I going to have a problem with the exhaust manifold? It looks rusty.
7) what kind of oil should I use in the assembly of the head? (lubricating oil #49, which has a mil#, but I cant tell what it is). Should I just use the engine assembly lubricant?

 

[cucvrus]

My Advise Only. These are answered in order.
1.) Yes. They have new copper washers with the head gasket set. Replace them. They are not specific to any cylinder and just keep them in a clean dry place.
2.) My opinion. I have replaced mine on several CUCV's I use the Diesel Care specials. No body has PROVEN that they don't work. I have used them more then 10 times with outstanding results.
3.) Water Pump is optional. I did mine when I changed my heads and head gaskets. But it helps cause you can change all the gaskets and seal while you have it apart.
4.) A 30 M/M injector socket is nice to have. Would you like to borrow my Snap-On? A 19M/M line wrench will work on the delivery nozzles. Just remove the entire spider assembly with the fuel lines attached to the injection pump. You will need a 16M/M line wrench to get the lines from the injection pump. But you do not need a crows foot if you remove the entire spider assembly.
5.) The head bolts I buy from Felpro have the head bolt sealer built in and you can add Permatex Teflon sealer to the threads.
6.) Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds and then deal with the 15 M/M bolt heads when the heads are out and in your face. Much easier. Spray the manifold studs really good with PB Blaster or equivalent.
7.) I don't know what you are referring to here.
8.) Cut 16 holes in a tall box and keep the push rods in exact order. Top up and bottom down. That is about all. Good Luck ask as many question =s as you like. DO GET THE HEADS CHECKED by a competent automotive machine shop. Or if you do NOT have the heads gone over and checked you are wasting your time. Do not trust a straight edge inspection. Oldest trick in the book. Do it right the first time. It will cost you some money. But a lot less then doing it over the second time. Happy Holidays.

 

[TedO]

My Advise Only. These are answered in order.
1.) Yes. They have new copper washers with the head gasket set. Replace them. They are not specific to any cylinder and just keep them in a clean dry place.
2.) My opinion. I have replaced mine on several CUCV's I use the Diesel Care specials. No body has PROVEN that they don't work. I have used them more then 10 times with outstanding results.
3.) Water Pump is optional. I did mine when I changed my heads and head gaskets. But it helps cause you can change all the gaskets and seal while you have it apart.
4.) A 30 M/M injector socket is nice to have. Would you like to borrow my Snap-On? A 19M/M line wrench will work on the delivery nozzles. Just remove the entire spider assembly with the fuel lines attached to the injection pump. You will need a 16M/M line wrench to get the lines from the injection pump. But you do not need a crows foot if you remove the entire spider assembly.
5.) The head bolts I buy from Felpro have the head bolt sealer built in and you can add Permatex Teflon sealer to the threads.
6.) Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds and then deal with the 15 M/M bolt heads when the heads are out and in your face. Much easier. Spray the manifold studs really good with PB Blaster or equivalent.
7.) I don't know what you are referring to here.
8.) Cut 16 holes in a tall box and keep the push rods in exact order. Top up and bottom down. That is about all. Good Luck ask as many question =s as you like. DO GET THE HEADS CHECKED by a competent automotive machine shop. Or if you do NOT have the heads gone over and checked you are wasting your time. Do not trust a straight edge inspection. Oldest trick in the book. Do it right the first time. It will cost you some money. But a lot less then doing it over the second time. Happy Holidays.

Thanks. That is very helpful. Is there any particular head gasket that is better, or do I get the Felpro gaskets as well?

 

[cucvrus]

I have bought Felpro's. I used GM sets in the past when they were available. Most of the head gaskets you buy are going to do the job. As long as they are for the proper application. 6.2 J code diesel. The J code may not matter but it is worth mentioning. It does matter for the intake gaskets. J code have the EGR port sealed. Please report back on your progress. Good Luck and enjoy the Holidays.

 

[TedO]

I have bought Felpro's. I used GM sets in the past when they were available. Most of the head gaskets you buy are going to do the job. As long as they are for the proper application. 6.2 J code diesel. The J code may not matter but it is worth mentioning. It does matter for the intake gaskets. J code have the EGR port sealed. Please report back on your progress. Good Luck and enjoy the Holidays.

Thanks. As usual, you have helped me immensely!!

 

[cucvrus]

I said yes to replacing the fuel delivery nozzles. I meant to say NO just remove them and replace the copper washers underneath them. I have only ever changed the nozzles on a few vehicles. Mostly at a customers request. I never replaced them just to replace them. I had them checked at a diesel shop to make sure they were popping at the correct pressure. Only other ones I ever replaced were ones with external fuel leaks. Maybe 3 in 20 years. And even then I just put used ones in with new copper washers. I am glad I could help you out. Happy Holidays. Reminds me of one time a friend called me about his CUCV and it had a bad popping sound coming out of the engine. He said it needs injectors. I said i doubt it. He said he bought new ones and replaced them. He called me back and said it was still doing it and now it was worse. He brought it over. I opened the hood and it was popping away out of the air cleaner. I noticed only 1 wingnut on the air cleaner and no stud was coming out of the hole where the missing wing nut was. I ask him where the stud was he said it was not there the last time he changed his air filter. I said well that is the problem. He said no the air filter had come off while he was coming home from camp and the stud was missing. I said NO the stud is not missing. It is right there. I shined the light into the intake. It was in the second cylinder back on the right side intake valve and it was jammed in there and had the valve bent from closing on the larger end of the stud. Imagine that. It could not get thru. Sort of like you keep on knocking but you can't come in. I reached down and pulled it out while he cranked the engine over. That job was easy and his Dad said just replace the one head gasket. I talked him into changing both and the right head needed the valve replaced. The piston had a few marks on it but it appeared fine. That was 10 years ago and I just seen the grown Kid 2 weeks ago and he just sold the truck and it was still going. So I just wanted to share that story cause his Dad was old school and said why change the gasket if it ain't leaking. I said it is like brakes. Change both sides. I know guys that change i side at a time. But when I had the injection pump off he sent it out for rebuilding also. Are you bored yet? Take care and good luck with your projects.

 

[TedO]

I said yes to replacing the fuel delivery nozzles.


Thats a good story. I suppose people think that if they only change 1 gasket, then it should be half the price.

I did understand what you were saying about the injectors. I was thinking about changing them, until I saw the price. Then I re-read your message and realized you were talking about changing the copper gaskets. I see them in the gasket kit I bought.

 

[TedO]

Injector nozzle

I said yes to replacing the fuel delivery nozzles. I meant to say NO just remove them and replace the copper washers underneath them. I have only ever changed the nozzles on a few vehicles.


Hello, what do I do with those drain tubes on the injectors? Is am still taking things apart. It looks like I have to remove the one at the front, but the rest can be left in place?

I am having difficulty removing the tubes from the injectors. When I re-install these, can I use a little anti-sieze?

 

[cucvrus]

Just take all the return lines off. They have little PITA squeeze clamps. May I recommend a new kit and new return lines and clamps? Keep the old ones for spares and replace them with new. A lot easier. The stop plugs are usually the worst to get off and back on.

 

[TedO]

Also, it says to twist the vacuum pump around to access the last intake bolt. I removed the retaining clamp, but the vacuum pump is frozen solid. Is this going to cause any problems for me down the road? I was able to get all the intake bolts off anyways. Now I am trying to remove the pipe clamps and get the tubes out of the nozzles. I am hoping when this is done, I will be able to get the intake off. It is loose, but seems to be held in place by the pipes . Is the frozen vacuum pump going to cause any problems for me down the road?

 

[TedO]

got it. thanks.

 

[cucvrus]

Use a 3/4" line wrench and take the injection lines from the delivery nozzles. Then remove the injection line clamps at the intake. Allow the rubbers to stay on the injection lines. It helps to have a thin kerf 15 MM wrench a on some of the studs that have nuts on the upper threads. If you get to the point that you need any of the clamps or fuel line clamp on the right rear of engine let me know. I have a few new ones. Make sure to map out your bolt/stud sequence before removal so you get them back in the same way. Post some pictures. you are going to like the end results. This is not a major surgical job. Take care and good luck.

 

[TedO]

This is where I got to. Now labelling the pipes before I pull them off.

 

[cucvrus]

What pipes? The fuel injection lines will come out as an entire assembly with the fuel injection pump. You are now ready to removed the 2 nuts holding the oil fill tower in place. Hold the rear nut on the stud.( Another place a thin wrench comes in play.) Then pull the oil fill tower out of the way and remove the grommet. That is where you access the 3 bolts (13 mm hex) holding the pump fast to the upper timing gear. Carefully remove the 3 bolts. I put some tape or a bit of a rag in the tool to jam the bolts into the socket so they don't fall. No worries the gear can not jump time when you are turning the engine over taking the 3 bolts out inside the oil fill hole. Crank the engine with a 15/16/24 mm socket. Crank it clockwise so the bolt on the crank stays torqued. Looks good so far. Also I stuff 1 square of paper towel down the head intake holes and the EGR holes in the center of the head. I hope I am helping. Pull that vacuum pump. You will get a new gasket for that also. Good Luck. Report back.

 

[TedO]

What pipes? The fuel injection lines will come out as an entire assembly with the fuel injection pump. You are now ready to removed the 2 nuts holding the oil fill tower in place. Hold the rear nut on the stud.( Another place a thin wrench comes in play.) Then pull the oil fill tower out of the way and remove the grommet. That is where you access the 3 bolts (13 mm hex) holding the pump fast to the upper timing gear. Carefully remove the 3 bolts. I put some tape or a bit of a rag in the tool to jam the bolts into the socket so they don't fall. No worries the gear can not jump time when you are turning the engine over taking the 3 bolts out inside the oil fill hole. Crank the engine with a 15/16/24 mm socket. Crank it clockwise so the bolt on the crank stays torqued. Looks good so far. Also I stuff 1 square of paper towel down the head intake holes and the EGR holes in the center of the head. I hope I am helping. Pull that vacuum pump. You will get a new gasket for that also. Good Luck. Report back.

The vacuum pump is frozen solid. I cant move it.

Where do you buy the fuel line clamp that is on the right rear of the engine?

I noticed there is no hole in the intake for the EGR port. The port is full of carbon. Why is this?

 

[cucvrus]

Is this the one you need? And I would get that vacuum pump out of there now. If it were to go bad you would have to get it out with the entire engine assembled. Any progress to report? EGR is an emission system. These are exempt from emissions.

 

[TedO]

yes, that the one. where did you buy that?

I am going to soak down the vacuum pump with penetrating oil. I am not sure how it is connected. Can I put some twisting force on it?

Having trouble with some of the nozzles. The whole injector wants to turn. I am going to try to put some vice grips on the injector to hold it in place. worst case scenario I guess is just cut off the metal tubing and remove the whole injector. Then I will need a new injector and I will have to make a new piece of tubing.

 

[cpf240]

... worst case scenario I guess is just cut off the metal tubing and remove the whole injector. Then I will need a new injector and I will have to make a new piece of tubing.

Do you mean the injector line from the injector pump to the injector? My understanding is that those are not just 'tubes'. I'm not sure they can just be fabricated out of brake line, etc. I believe they are sized for length, etc, for proper fuel delivery timing, as well as having a special coating on the inside.

I would look for new, or good used, injector lines if one cannot be saved.

Perhaps someone with more knowledge on this can provide more info...

 

[cucvrus]

Hold the delivery nozzle with a 30mm wrench and use a 19mm wrench and turn the lines from the delivery nozzles. DO NOT cut them lines they are tuned to exact length and thickness. Put a vise grips on the shaft of the vacuum pump and get that sucker loose and out of there. Did you take the 1 M10 bolt ad Y clamp from the base of the pump? PM me an address and I will send you that fuel line piece I showed you. I worked on these trucks for a few years . I have many little odd parts. Do you need any other parts, bolts, studs. nuts? Report back on your progress. I would like California weather to work on my toys right now.

 

[TedO]

Hold the delivery nozzle with a 30mm wrench and use a 19mm wrench and turn the lines from the delivery nozzles. DO NOT cut them lines they are tuned to exact length and thickness. Put a vise grips on the shaft of the vacuum pump and get that sucker loose and out of there. Did you take the 1 M10 bolt ad Y clamp from the base of the pump? PM me an address and I will send you that fuel line piece I showed you. I worked on these trucks for a few years . I have many little odd parts. Do you need any other parts, bolts, studs. nuts? Report back on your progress. I would like California weather to work on my toys right now.

We have been have an unusual amount of rain the past few days.

I need to get the 30 mm wrench.

I did remove the bolt and the metal plate at the base of the vacuum pump. I will try the vice grips.