CUCV Front Winch Mount

bushhawg73

Member
122
0
16
Location
Columbia, Missouri
Hi!, I had planned on putting one set of "mounts" on top of the winch plate, similar to yours, and one set on the bottom side.
Do you know if the outside demensions on the square tubing you used would allow a padlock to be placed through the holes on one side if you wanted to keep it mounted?
I'm thinking one of those good quality round style master locks, if it fits it would be very hard to get a set of cutters on Id think, but maybe not.
The way this mount is secured is with bolts. Basically if your standing over it looking down there is a bolt that goes through the truck frame extender and then through the winch bracket or mount. Its not a lock but it would take some time to unbolt. The bolts also help steady up the mount so there is no up and down wiggle. Makes it a real secure unit. The clevises hold it in place while the bolts are secured and then she is rock solid. I think you can see the bolt holes in one of the mount pics I posted.

Look at reply #30. the hole that has the washer outline on it is the hole we use to bolt it in place.
 

llong66

New member
453
1
0
Location
kokomo, In
bushhawg73, I noticed that, what I was talking about was a way to be able to mount it front AND rear with the same mount as the distance between the frame extensions is different front to rear.
 

bushhawg73

Member
122
0
16
Location
Columbia, Missouri
bushhawg73, I noticed that, what I was talking about was a way to be able to mount it front AND rear with the same mount as the distance between the frame extensions is different front to rear.
Oh..... Gotcha. As far as I can see the easiest way to accomplish this would be to source some thick wall square tubing that just did fit over the extension tubes. Weld some on the top of your mount to fit the front detentions and then weld some on the bottom to fit the rear detentions. This way you could swap front to back and the only difference would be a few inches in mount height.


I do have to say this, my mount and winch are very heavy. I really can not imagine swapping front to rear while stuck in a deep mud pit or on the side of the hill. My plan is to mount my winch on the front and leave it there. I will use a heavy duty come along, like a Wyeth Scott power puller with synthetic rope, with a 12,000 double line pull rating for the rear. If that wont do it I will break out the high lift jack and use it to pull also. I am totally aware that front and rear winches would be awesome but I just don't see myself swapping a unit from front to rear. Just the weight alone is an issue not to mention all the wiring and ways to hook up the power. The power puller is around 350.00 and its a proven model. With the price of copper these days I would be willing to bet that it would cost at least 100.00 or more just to run large enough wire from front to rear just to keep up with the demand of the winch. That however is just my opinion. I still think the removable winch mount is a good idea and hope you can make it work for you.

AmsteelBlue2-2175.jpg
 
Last edited:

dmilkman589

Member
181
1
16
Location
troy, ny
So better late then never on this reply right? Thanks for all the critiques! I considered everything everyone said and revamped the model, I analyzed it and it should be able to withstand a 20000 pound load in perfect conditions, so knowing no conditions are perfect ill say it will handle the 12000 pound winch just fine. I added in some much needed supports and am in the build process now. I'm building out of chromoly witch proves to be twice the yield strength of mild steel. I am up to about 150 dollars in materials already since the chromoly tubing was so darn expensive but its coming out nice so far.
 

jpg

Member
608
4
18
Location
boston
I'd appreciate some advice from those with lots of winching experience. I'm new to winches, and I live in a high-salt area. I was planning to mount heavy duty trailer hitches front and back, with appropriate cabling, and plug the winch in when off-roading. Otherwise, I plan to store it inside, protected from salt. When transitioning from highway to off-road, I'd air down the tires and mount the winch in the back. Most of my off-roading is solo, so if I need a winch, it will usually be to back out of somewhere I shouldn't have gone in the first place.

I'm looking at the synthetic winch cables, to keep the weight down and make it easier to move the winch around.

A front trailer hitch has the advantage of accepting various carriers for things like bicycles, motorcycles, etc. It also leaves the clevises free to attach multi-part tackle to multiply the power of the winch.

Is there an advantage to mounting the winch on the clevises, rather than on a trailer hitch? Am I missing some fundamental disadvantage of the trailer hitch approach?
 

llong66

New member
453
1
0
Location
kokomo, In
98G, I like the simplicity of your mount! Very nice. 2 questions though, 1 have you tried it out and seen if it holds up to pulling yours or a similar sized rig outa say some deep mud/snow or much of a grade? 2Do you have some way I don't see in the pic that keeps some low life from sneaking off with it?

Thanks,
Greg
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
3
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Shackle mounts are different width on M1009 also.
This is incorrect if you are not referring to the front and rear mounting. The front shackles are the same distance apart between the pickup (M1008/28, M1010 & M1031) and SUV (M1009) frame. I have taken my winch mount from truck to truck with no issues between them. This is a design that another SS member made from Harbor Freight winch mount plate and their receiver mounts. I have also used my work platform designed from this winch plate idea that mounts to the shackles from a M1009 to a M1031, including my 1984 Suburban CUCV clone that uses shackles from a donor M1009.

Posting this to help the OP with his design. I myself will just build mine, but it is a great idea for the people that cannot do this themselves. The shackle on the front of the winch is much needed as I have used it before to snatch back.

Here are screen shots from a video I made showing me taking the winch mount and work platform between my M1031 and my 84 Suburban CUCV Clone( same as a M1009 as that is where the parts came from). No struggles to hook up the pins and the winch mount on my suburban was built on the M1031 originally.
Winch-Plate-CUCV-01.jpgWinch-Plate-CUCV-02.jpgWinch-Plate-CUCV-03.jpg

My work platform on a M1009
IMG_9974.jpg


Just picture of the winch in use.
IMG_2957a.jpg


The winch plate that I currently have on my Suburban as seen here on my M1031 from 2013. My past M1009 with the winch that is now currently on my M1031.
Winch-Plate-CUCV-04.jpg
 
Last edited:

Csm Davis

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,047
61
48
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
This is incorrect if you are not referring to the front and rear mounting. The front shackles are the same distance apart between the pickup (M1008/28, M1010 & M1031) and SUV (M1009) frame. I have taken my winch mount from truck to truck with no issues between them. This is a design that another SS member made from Harbor Freight winch mount plate and their receiver mounts. I have also used my work platform designed from this winch plate idea that mounts to the shackles from a M1009 to a M1031, including my 1984 Suburban CUCV clone that uses shackles from a donor M1009.

Posting this to help the OP with his design. I myself will just build mine, but it is a great idea for the people that cannot do this themselves. The shackle on the front of the winch is much needed as I have used it before to snatch back.

Here are screen shots from a video I made showing me taking the winch mount and work platform between my M1031 and my 84 Suburban CUCV Clone( same as a M1009 as that is where the parts came from). No struggles to hook up the pins and the winch mount on my suburban was built on the M1031 originally.
View attachment 548998View attachment 548999View attachment 549000

My work platform on a M1009
View attachment 549003


Just picture of the winch in use.
View attachment 549002


The winch plate that I currently have on my Suburban as seen here on my M1031 from 2013. My past M1009 with the winch that is now currently on my M1031.
View attachment 549004
I believe that he Was talking about the rear being different.
 

lostnbfe

Member
51
0
6
Location
Decatur, AL
The front shackle mounts are 30" apart and the rear ones are 36" apart. I had my mounts configured to allow me to move them 3" out further on either side to allow for mounting on the rear if need be.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
3
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I believe that he Was talking about the rear being different.
I did not quote the whole comment the first time, but the way I read it he is saying the M1009 is not the same to the other CUCV trucks. He later notes the rear is different as others & myself have noted. I posted this example only due to the comment saying the M1009 is not the same for this front winch mount, but it is.

Interesting concept. Agree, stronger is better. Would be something that you definitely don't want to fail when you need it. Price would be a consideration. Shackle mounts are different width on M1009 also. Like the slave port idea for a power source. Could add another at the rear of the vehicle for use in that direction. Please keep us informed. Neat thread.

God bless,
Tony
Here is the video.
https://youtu.be/lnCZZkBrMeE
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks