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CUCV M1008 Build

adf5565

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That's a great rebuild of the front axle...that center come out easy enough I hope. Should be good for a long time now.
Thanks! The center came out pretty easy, getting it back in was a pain but that was partly due to laying on the ground in a cold garage trying to hold it with one hand and tap it in with the other 😂 Probably would either get a spreader or remove the axle from the truck for better access if I had to do it again!
 

WWRD99

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Thanks! The center came out pretty easy, getting it back in was a pain but that was partly due to laying on the ground in a cold garage trying to hold it with one hand and tap it in with the other 😂 Probably would either get a spreader or remove the axle from the truck for better access if I had to do it again!
Having it out would make it easier, I try to have someone with to hammer while I hold it square.
 

adf5565

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Got a few more things done this weekend. Took advantage of the (slightly) warmer weather and cleaned up the front axle and sway bar and coated with por-15. Put the new bushings for the sway bar, new tie rods, and new steering stabilizer on as well.

I pulled the old steering box out as well and started switching stuff over to the new one. Realized I forgot to buy a coupler for the shaft so once that comes in I’ll get the box reinstalled. Also installed the new booster and master cylinder as well as a few of the power steering hoses. One thing to note- Gates 366850 which is specified as the pump to booster pressure hose on rock auto is actually not the right part. I was able to get it to fit but it is too long and the pre-bent tube end by the pump is not right. They’re not overly expensive so I ordered Sunsong 3401729 as the picture of that seems more correct. I will confirm once it is installed.

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adf5565

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I was able to install the power steering pump and the rest of the steering components as well as shocks and front spring shackles. Old shackles could’ve been worse but rubber was also in rough shape. I measured the old tie rod/drag link from the center of the grease fittings and set up the new ones to the same distance. I still plan on getting an alignment but this will do for now. Also started on the rear brakes. Pulled the drums off, put new wheel cylinders on and new shoes. The existing drums are still in spec so I cleaned them up with new hub seals as well. Somehow I lost one of the adjusting lever return springs so have to get new ones before finishing up, the hardware kit I initially bought didn’t include those…
 

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WWRD99

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I was able to install the power steering pump and the rest of the steering components as well as shocks and front spring shackles. Old shackles could’ve been worse but rubber was also in rough shape. I measured the old tie rod/drag link from the center of the grease fittings and set up the new ones to the same distance. I still plan on getting an alignment but this will do for now. Also started on the rear brakes. Pulled the drums off, put new wheel cylinders on and new shoes. The existing drums are still in spec so I cleaned them up with new hub seals as well. Somehow I lost one of the adjusting lever return springs so have to get new ones before finishing up, the hardware kit I initially bought didn’t include those…
That spring shouldn't be that tough to get...probably have one in a hardware kit. Looks like tomorrow will be warm as well...plan on getting more done while it is warm out!
 

adf5565

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That spring shouldn't be that tough to get...probably have one in a hardware kit. Looks like tomorrow will be warm as well...plan on getting more done while it is warm out!
Harder than I expected! Online I didn’t see them at Napa but I’ll call them tomorrow to find out for sure. They’re super cheap so I ordered them from rock auto just in case but hopefully I won’t have to wait that long for them
 

adf5565

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I was able to finish up the rear brakes and got all of that put back together. Changed out the rear brake hose and then bled the brake and power steering systems. I didn’t see any leaks on any of the stuff I changed so that’s always a good start!

Now I moved on to the cab, I pulled the seat and floor mat out and cleaned everything up good. I was hoping to reuse the old floor mat as it was visually in good shape but it was glued down in spots and ended up tearing pretty bad so I’ll have to get a new one. I have some sound matting to install and also plan on installing a radio and some speakers. Also need to reroute the wire for the dome light since it was just hanging before. I tried a little bit but wasn’t able to get the wire over from the center of the roof to the corner to drop down so I’ll have to come up with another strategy there.
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adf5565

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It’s been a little while since I posted but have slowly chipped away at the interior. I originally ordered sound dampening/matting from LMC but I wasn’t impressed so I ordered Kilmat instead. I’m still going to use the LMC heat insulation but it seems odd that there’s a spot of padding missing on the drivers side. Overall wouldn’t recommend the LMC stuff. I also changed out the headlights to LEDs and worked though an issue I had in this post.


I took apart the dash and cleaned up the instrument cluster and changed out those bulbs to LED as well. And lastly got an auto meter oil pressure gauge hooked up. Put a “T” on the current pressure gauge sender and installed the new one there. It seems to be slow on responsiveness but I only ran the truck in the garage for 10 mins with revving it briefly so I’m sure that’s probably part of the reason for that. Had about 25 psi on normal idle.
 

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adf5565

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Oh and I almost forgot, I also installed a fancy new touchscreen radio and a couple speakers. Bought the civy behind the seat brackets and some 4x10”s speakers and with a little modification fit pretty nicely. Eventually I might add some door speakers but for now the behind the seat ones seem good.
 

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WWRD99

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It’s been a little while since I posted but have slowly chipped away at the interior. I originally ordered sound dampening/matting from LMC but I wasn’t impressed so I ordered Kilmat instead. I’m still going to use the LMC heat insulation but it seems odd that there’s a spot of padding missing on the drivers side. Overall wouldn’t recommend this stuff. I also changed out the headlights to LEDs and worked though an issue I had in this post.


I took apart the dash and cleaned up the instrument cluster and changed out those bulbs to LED as well. And lastly got an auto meter oil pressure gauge hooked up. Put a “T” on the current pressure gauge sender and installed the new one there. It seems to be slow on responsiveness but I only ran the truck in the garage for 10 mins with revving it briefly so I’m sure that’s probably part of the reason for that. Had about 25 psi on normal idle.
I have some hotrod friends that did the lizard skin spray gel...they swear by it...not sure how it compares to the kilmat but I'll look into that as well.
 

adf5565

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Sometimes it’s the simple things in life that make a difference. Had a rookie mistake and got brake cleaner over the gauge cluster lens while it was on the work bench which did some damage. Granted it wasn’t in the clearest condition beforehand anyways. But with a new lens and some gauge cleaning it shines like new!

I also was looking at my dash pad and noticed a few things. It has a crack in it, not the worst I’ve seen so I’ll reuse it for now, but eventually I’ll pony up the $400+ for a new one. But then I was wondering, is there already an aftermarket “dash cover” already installed on it? Just the way the black vinyl fits over the foam/frame and the glue residue it seems like it could be. I don’t have any experience with those covers so I’m not sure.
 

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adf5565

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I was able to get the interior pretty much finished up and put back together. Also pulled the bed off today so I can start with some frame/axle painting tomorrow. One of the carriage bolts holding the bed to the frame stripped which I had to then cut out so I’ll have to figure out something there when it’s time for reassembly. A few of the other items lined up for when the bed is off include new fuel tank, trailer hitch and associated bumper support mods, new rear shocks, and wire in a trailer brake controller and a 7 pin harness
 

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adf5565

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It was a productive past few days. I finished up the chassis paint and then dropped the fuel tank and replaced that along with a new sender. The old one would’ve made it but figured while everything was apart I might as well change it. At some point someone must’ve spilled a lot of oil in the truck bed cause the inside of that as well as the front part of the frame and fuel tank was covered in a dirty oily mess. Took a few cans of degreaser and brake clean to prep everything.

Also I started installing the trailer hitch. I went with the Curt 14082, it doesn’t involve removing the spring shackle supports and is still rated for 10k lbs.
 

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acthomp781

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Also made progress on the power steering/brake booster system. Got my power steering pump back from rebuild so I got that installed. Also pulled out the master cylinder and brake booster. I have new units so I’ll get those installed here soon.
One thing I noticed when trying to figure out what brake fluid is in there is that someone must’ve added a small amount of the wrong fluid at some point. Looks like it’s separated/cloudy in the master cylinder. I haven’t noticed anything cloudy coming out of the master cylinder when the lines were disconnected or at the calipers so I think it was just a small amount of incorrect fluid that was added. I plan on replacing with DOT5 once all the new brake components are installed.
When I got my m1009 in 2017 my master cylinder looked like that. I also replaced all the brake components and flushed the lines. nice project!
 

adf5565

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I finished up the bed and put that back on. Pounded out a few of the dents in the floor, one of the smaller short crossmembers between the wheels is bent a little still so eventually when I pull the bed off again to paint I’ll use a loader to flip it over and finish fixing that dent. Pounding that section from underneath was like hitting a sponge. Also straightened the side where it was bent in, it’ll require some filler but it’s better than what it was. Also painted up the rear bumper and ran the wire for the trailer harness, which I picked up the adapter from hillbilly wizard.

And last thing on the bed, purchased some mounting bolts which allow use of an Allen wrench to replace where the original carriage bolts rounded out the bed floor during removal.
 

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adf5565

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Next up is the 700r4 install, t-case rebuild, and while I’m at it rear main seal/oil pan gasket. Like I mentioned in the beginning got the bow tie overdrives upgraded level 2 which will give me a nice overdrive gear. Pulled the t-case out the other night and this weekend will be working on the rest of it. Probably will take a couple weeks or so to get this all completed.
 

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ezgn

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Next up is the 700r4 install, t-case rebuild, and while I’m at it rear main seal/oil pan gasket. Like I mentioned in the beginning got the bow tie overdrives upgraded level 2 which will give me a nice overdrive gear. Pulled the t-case out the other night and this weekend will be working on the rest of it. Probably will take a couple weeks or so to get this all completed.
You're doing great, keep up the good work!
 
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