CUCVRUS Repair Projects

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You can get anything you want on Facebook market place. I entered a search for a few things that I am looking for and I have been blessed. I found all these Chevrolet truck tailgates in the past 2 weeks. DSCF8031 - Copy.JPG2021 that the trailer came disconnected on. DSCF8029 - Copy.JPG DSCF8032.JPG 2019 2500 High Country trailer hitch damage. DSCF8032.JPG 2007 trailer hitch damage. DSCF8035.JPG This one I rescued from the crusher during the COVID19 shutdown. DSCF8034.JPG These I have had hanging a few years. i plan on getting them alll hung up on the barn wall as modern art. DSCF8030 - Copy.JPG I also found a 1968 and a 1969. I know the one is rusty but after I high light the CHEVROLET and clear coat them they will look great. I mean they are 50 + years old. I also found a 1979 K30 gate on Facebook market. And last but not least I also found 4 M1009 wheels on Facebook market. I went and looked because I wanted OEM no imports. These are the real thing. DSCF8036.JPG DSCF8037.JPG DSCF8038.JPG 15 x 8 JJ. Thanks for looking. Stay busy and keep active. It was 94* today. Family night out .
 

Attachments

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Well didn't I go and speak again when I should have turned and walked away. The m1009 plow truck at work would not shut off. The key switch was stuck in the on position. It would of course turn to the starter engaged position. Of Course it would but all the spray lubes and tapping were doing nothing and I walked up. I ask what the problem was and they were holding the chrome key switch ring in their hand. I said NICE. I attempted to shut it off and popped the hood and pulled 1 wire and it stopped. I disconnected the batteries and began looking into the issue. Of course it was now an abandon shop. I have assumed all responsibility for the repair. I attempted to remove the steering wheel and I looked up under the dash. A nice crusty/rusty mess under there. Wires going everywhere. Wire ties holding wires that were running to power points and every half fast plug you can image. I cut about 6 wire ties and traced some wires and cut the ones not needed. 3 different power points eliminated and 1 nice one I installed 20 years ago still in place. I have no tools here to work on the lock plate or remove the steering column. I am not the mechanic. I went home and picked up some tools and a parts column. I removed the entire column because that seemed like the thing to do to get everything cleaned, lubed and aligned. So far so good. Now I am removing the entire fuse block and doing a bypass in line fuse splice to fix the melted 30 AMP fuse circuit. I will be putting in 2 inline fuse to do away with that burnt circuit. This M1009 is in very rough shape. Still running but it can not be restored. It is a plow vehicle. Pictures later. Back to work for now. Working on CUCV's at work again,. I thought them days were over.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
CUCV's the final civilian based tactic diesel trucks. These are the voyages of CUCVRUS. His 35 year mission to fix or destroy all CUCV's that come his way. To seek new repairs and usable parts. To boldly try things that no other man is willing to attempt. The steering column. The master of all evil wizardry. Remove a few bolts and screws and the pieces just fall to the floor. I was going to attempt an in chassis repair. But I know that is not possible. So out with the column. DSCF8039.JPG DSCF8040.JPG The chrome handle on the switch is missing and the key is stuck in the on position. Why. Looking upp under the dash I pictured rusty binding rods and 37 years of crud and rust. DSCF8041.JPG DSCF8042.JPG I went home and retrieved the steering wheel puller. DSCF8043.JPG OK a Puller for anything it can pull. Finding part of the issue did not take long. That screw/Allen bolt. was the issue. Must have been there a long time. Wasn't there when I sold them the M1009 in 1999. DSCF8044.JPG I brought back a parts column so I could look everything over and build 1 nice like new column. If that is possible. It was a sweat box and the temperatures just kept rising with each area of difficulty I encountered. DSCF8045.JPG You can see the issue here, The cylinder was getting threads worn into it from use and they were starting to take hold. That made everything tight. Unlike the original shouldered pin bolt the threaded stud was tight in the cylinder side wall. DSCF8046.JPG
Like I always say. The hacking begins with the first uneducated hack job you do. This probably seemed like a good idea at the time. Not my idea of good. I was puzzled when I was looking how to get the lock cylinder out. Never seen an Allen screw holding one in. The more screws I removed the more pieces kept falling on the bench. Was I nervous? Sort of. I was not sure what was damaged and what was good. i didn't want 2 columns taken apart at the same time. DSCF8047.JPGDSCF8048.JPG I managed to pull the turn signal switch out and get the housing screws out. that was easy. getting it back together is the real challenge. Do NOT follow anyone instructions to take the column apart in the truck. If you have to use any force even a little there is something wrong and you must stop and discover why it is requiring force. I used up my 10 pictures I will continue. And being up front I went home for the day and will continue next week on Monday I hope if I am still here and haven't burst into flames by then. Now onto Page 2 for today.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
In all fairness I was very careful during reassembly and cleaned and lightly oil things as I went. Getting the gear engaged in the lock pin for the steering wheel can be tricky. If it is 1 tooth off it will fit and make things very difficult to reassemble and disassemble to correct the error. Go slowly and clean and lube lightly as you go. Wash hands frequently. Keep area clean and dry and organized. The reason the column needs to be out. The plastic wire sleeve below the steel column safety mount. DSCF8050.JPG Attaches to the welded nuts of the main column housing. DSCF8051.JPG Wires will fit snugly under the plastic. Not tight or pinched. Now perfect the key action and the switch action. Nice and smooth fine tune the adjustment by using the slotted adjustment bolt. After the ignition switch it is time to attach the headlamp dimmer switch and fine tune that adustment for a smooth even click each time. Not a coarse hard click. DSCF8052.JPG I went ahead and reassembled the column assembly and am now putting the lock plate back on the column. DSCF8053.JPGGetting the lock pin to move freely and smoothly is the key to a smooth switch movement. Clean and grit free. The plastic cover plate was broken and is not really required on this vehicle. I would find a good one if it were a good personal vehicle but for this no cover may be helpful. DSCF8054.JPG A nice clean and smooth operating switch and lock plate. Someone had the horn contact spring streched out and without the retainer. DSCF8056.JPG I will work on getting replacement parts. Horn Contact Kit NOE 7352822 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)
 

Attachments

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
While I had the steering column out of the M1009 I decided it was time to repair the melted 30 amp fuse. I removed the bulkheadDSCF8057.JPG connection under the hood. Then I went under the dash and removed the bolts holding the fuse box to the firewall. DSCF8059.JPG Melted area. Same as usual. DSCF8060.JPG Next I had to split the fuse box in half. And at that point I had used up the last drop of sweat I had and called it a day. I want to get 2 inline fuse holders before I go cutting the harness on the back of the fuse box. That will be easy/ But next week. Stay Tuned. I promise and update. No Reruns here. Thank you for looking and enjoy the weekend. This weekend it is Pennsylvania Renaissance Faire | Mount Hope Estate & Winery (parenfaire.com)

Pyrate Invasion
 

Attachments

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
4,842
10,324
113
Location
Charlotte NC
May be an image of ‎text that says '‎Her: My boyfriends so handy, just last week he fixed my exhaust and only charged me $150 for the parts he had to buy. He's to good to me The exhaust: III///اااا‎'‎'‎Her: My boyfriends so handy, just last week he fixed my exhaust and only charged me $150 for the parts he had to buy. He's to good to me The exhaust: III///اااا‎'‎

Why is it that I see repairs done like this all the time? Tools and money can make fools of some people. Do it right the first time and drive on. Be SAFE.
.
Can't say anything but WOW...
Getting the job done right the first time is so much easier.

The person who did this spent as much time "rigging" as the "real repair" would have taken.
cucvrus , Your comment do it right the first time is so true...

And it costs less in the long run too!
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
CUCV Technical Info » Motor Mayhem
When I fix the melted fuse connection I always refer to this diagram for the fuses. The Main 30 amp on the right midway is the one I always find melted. The Stop and tail light one directly above it is fed on the same leg. I must cut that feed wire and place an inline in place for each circuit. I could add one but that would still be overloaded and all I am doing is getting a tighter connection and better grip of the fuse to avoid the hot spot. this M1009 I am working on eats fuses every week. it is an OFF ROAD USE ONLY vehicle but we still need to maintain the lighting system. I made things easier to work on. I removed the drivers seat and seat pedestal and the drivers door. Makes access excellent without standing on your head and having the door pinching you and being jammed in that tight area. I will post pictures as things happen. For now I have procured 2 inline fuse holders. They are NOT the weather resistant type but it is the first thing I found. More later.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have the fuse box and bulkhead connector back in the firewall and all connected. I also have the steering column in place and all the wires plugged in for testing purposes. So far so good. I don't have the column bolted into the truck or hooked up to the steering shaft. Just the 2 under dash bolts holding it in. No steering wheel attached but everything works as planned. I found a lot of hacking in this truck. WOW. And this stuff was going on right next door to my shop. They were asking me questions for 20 years about how to fix things on the CUCV's. I only intervened as needed when they were stuck and unable to repair certain things. I think back and know now I wasted a lot of time explaining how things are supposed to be done. I think most people think a quick slam bam cheap repair is the best repair. I see many types of vehicles that are repaired this way. Hack it, pack it then ship it out. It still works. NOT. Take Care do it right the first time. Do or do not. There is no try.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
4,842
10,324
113
Location
Charlotte NC
I have the fuse box and bulkhead connector back in the firewall and all connected. I also have the steering column in place and all the wires plugged in for testing purposes. So far so good. I don't have the column bolted into the truck or hooked up to the steering shaft. Just the 2 under dash bolts holding it in. No steering wheel attached but everything works as planned. I found a lot of hacking in this truck. WOW. And this stuff was going on right next door to my shop. They were asking me questions for 20 years about how to fix things on the CUCV's. I only intervened as needed when they were stuck and unable to repair certain things. I think back and know now I wasted a lot of time explaining how things are supposed to be done. I think most people think a quick slam bam cheap repair is the best repair. I see many types of vehicles that are repaired this way. Hack it, pack it then ship it out. It still works. NOT. Take Care do it right the first time. Do or do not. There is no try.
.
No truer words have been spoken.
Do it right the first time for sure...
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
OK. I may have covered some of this before but here is a quick rundown. It is raining heavily here and I am inside in the dry. DSCF8058.JPG The melted box and light circuit. DSCF8059.JPG The box is split. DSCF8060 (1).JPG DSCF8061.JPG I pulled the red feed wire and cut the heat damaged ends off the wiring. DSCF8062.JPG Same as the leg for the brake lights. DSCF8063.JPG I spliced/crimped the 3 wires into one end of the 10 gauge solderless heat shrink butt connector. DSCF8064.JPG I spliced/crimped the inline fuses in place. DSCF8065.JPG I heat shrank the connections and taped them up real nice and tight. DSCF8066.JPG I know I have 2 30 amp fuse I will correct that later. This was just to make sure the connections were made and tight. Keeping moving in the right direction. I kept checking and testing as I went.
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
10,348
6,133
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF8067.JPGThe box is back in and the bulkhead connection rejoined. DSCF8068.JPG DSCF8069.JPG I like the hinge that is on the upper side of the drivers door.DSCF8070.JPG May I recommend if you ever have to work under the dash on the fuse box it is very helpful to remove the door and the drivers seat. Makes childs play of the whole job. No standing on your head and twisting your neck and back. Work Smarter Not Harder. WSNH. DSCF8071.JPG 10 years ago this vehicle was scrapped and set out in the back. One winter I needed it and spent a few days welding in a floor and heavy angle for rockers. It was scrap and was marked for scrap. That was 2010. it is still going. DSCF8071.JPG DSCF8072.JPG After I had everything installed and tight it was time for some testing. I have the horn circuit working again. Just need the $7.00 spring contact kit. DSCF8073.JPG Power down the horn hole and grounded on the steering shaft. Test light lights. DSCF8074.JPG Screwdriver crossed from positive probe to ground steering shaft and horn sounds. This an August 1983 build date truck. DSCF8076.JPG
So I have no shame in the rust it has. It will never leave here alive anyway. DSCF8075.JPG Take Care. I could have left it die a few times now. It has to keep going. It plows nice in tight areas and just keeps going and going.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
4,842
10,324
113
Location
Charlotte NC
View attachment 843994The box is back in and the bulkhead connection rejoined. View attachment 843995 View attachment 843996 I like the hinge that is on the upper side of the drivers door.View attachment 843997 May I recommend if you ever have to work under the dash on the fuse box it is very helpful to remove the door and the drivers seat. Makes childs play of the whole job. No standing on your head and twisting your neck and back. Work Smarter Not Harder. WSNH. View attachment 843998 10 years ago this vehicle was scrapped and set out in the back. One winter I needed it and spent a few days welding in a floor and heavy angle for rockers. It was scrap and was marked for scrap. That was 2010. it is still going. View attachment 843998 View attachment 843999 After I had everything installed and tight it was time for some testing. I have the horn circuit working again. Just need the $7.00 spring contact kit. View attachment 844000 Power down the horn hole and grounded on the steering shaft. Test light lights. View attachment 844001 Screwdriver crossed from positive probe to ground steering shaft and horn sounds. This an August 1983 build date truck. View attachment 844003
So I have no shame in the rust it has. It will never leave here alive anyway. View attachment 844002 Take Care. I could have left it die a few times now. It has to keep going. It plows nice in tight areas and just keeps going and going.
.
Pretty darn amazing.

I can relate and appreciate that reliable is better than pretty.
 

M1009_SPAIN

Active member
41
120
33
Location
Spain
View attachment 843994The box is back in and the bulkhead connection rejoined. View attachment 843995 View attachment 843996 I like the hinge that is on the upper side of the drivers door.View attachment 843997 May I recommend if you ever have to work under the dash on the fuse box it is very helpful to remove the door and the drivers seat. Makes childs play of the whole job. No standing on your head and twisting your neck and back. Work Smarter Not Harder. WSNH. View attachment 843998 10 years ago this vehicle was scrapped and set out in the back. One winter I needed it and spent a few days welding in a floor and heavy angle for rockers. It was scrap and was marked for scrap. That was 2010. it is still going. View attachment 843998 View attachment 843999 After I had everything installed and tight it was time for some testing. I have the horn circuit working again. Just need the $7.00 spring contact kit. View attachment 844000 Power down the horn hole and grounded on the steering shaft. Test light lights. View attachment 844001 Screwdriver crossed from positive probe to ground steering shaft and horn sounds. This an August 1983 build date truck. View attachment 844003
So I have no shame in the rust it has. It will never leave here alive anyway. View attachment 844002 Take Care. I could have left it die a few times now. It has to keep going. It plows nice in tight areas and just keeps going and going.

like each and every one of the jobs they do, MASTERPIECE I can't describe it any other way.
explained with simplicity, humility and wisdom of what is being done.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks