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Custom Dash Pod and CTIS controller

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ramdough

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As many of you know, I cut a brand new dash and added two gauges and 13 switches.

Link to post here…..

New Dash Layout in the works……

Added two gauge locations. I have not decided on the final additions…. Feel free to make suggestions. I need to drill a few holes for the indicator panel and light switches, but you get the idea. Bottom right are for cruise control. Next tree up are for my winch control (no more view...
www.steelsoldiers.com

This removed the switch pod above the AC evaporator. I also have an Arduino controller from Christian that I wanted to build my own box for.

This is what I came up with…..

IMG_7951.jpegIMG_7950.jpeg


The silver buttons are the right, left and enter buttons that were on the keypad. They will be only used for setup.

The up and down buttons with be replaced with a single rocker that looks like my dash and I am adding an On/off power switch. These will go on a replacement panel where the old CTIS controller was.

The buttons above the vents are the seat heater controller from the BMW seats.

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R

ramdough

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Anyone know where these attach? The schematic is confusing me on what they tie to. IMG_8087.png

they have two ring terminals. I am assuming they go to ground maybe?
 
G

GeneralDisorder

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ramdough said:
A friend 3d printed the housing and I glued it together, sanded, and painted it.


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Hope it was printed with something like ABS - the heater box gets plenty hot enough to melt many print filaments on it's own. Even at that - ABS starts to get soft around 210 F. A dark colored dash component in direct sunlight can easily approach that. I've had PLA+ printed parts get warped just being in my cab in the summer heat.
 
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GeneralDisorder

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ramdough said:
Thanks! I will have to look for that switch. If it is not there, do I connect them together, tape them off, or ground them?


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Need the wire numbers to trace them on the schematic. I haven't seen the TL numbers on there. Do you have the CTIS off switch that's part of the arctic kit? The tag seems to suggest it's related. Don't believe I have a switch in that location on my 1079.
 
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aw113sgte

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GeneralDisorder said:
Hope it was printed with something like ABS - the heater box gets plenty hot enough to melt many print filaments on it's own. Even at that - ABS starts to get soft around 210 F. A dark colored dash component in direct sunlight can easily approach that. I've had PLA+ printed parts get warped just being in my cab in the summer heat.
Click to expand...
I've had good luck with ASA in "high" temp areas.
 
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ramdough

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ramdough said:
Thanks! I will have to look for that switch. If it is not there, do I connect them together, tape them off, or ground them?


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I looked ….. I don’t see that switch at all. What should I do with the ends?


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R

ramdough

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Ronmar said:
Yep need the wire numbers, couldnot find those TL numbers referenced anywhere.
Click to expand...
ok, found more. Those go to trailer light switch 190 (S8 )which is for a tractor only.

image001.png

so since I do not have a tractor, my guess is that I should wrap both ends so they do not connect and send a signal anywhere….. thoughts?
 
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GeneralDisorder

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Correct. Looks like if you connect them it will illuminate the stop lights as if you were activating the Johnny brake for the M1088 trailer. If you ground them you will blow the circuit breaker. So yes heat shrink them individually and label them appropriately. Or follow them back into the harness and delete them entirely if you have no plans to use them in the future.
 
R

ramdough

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GeneralDisorder said:
Correct. Looks like if you connect them it will illuminate the stop lights as if you were activating the Johnny brake for the M1088 trailer. If you ground them you will blow the circuit breaker. So yes heat shrink them individually and label them appropriately. Or follow them back into the harness and delete them entirely if you have no plans to use them in the future.
Click to expand...
Excellent. Thanks!


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R

ramdough

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Ok, just for to be careful, I checked the voltages on the pins and compared that to the manual for the stock controller. The manual lists H and X as power and G, F, and W as grounds.

I get with the engine off:

X to G is 0 V
X to H is -21 V
X to F is 2 V
X to W is -10 V

H to X is 21 V
H to G is 21 V
H to F is 23.7 V
H to W is 16.1 V

Which ones should I use to power the Arduino CTIS and which should be NC?

@Plasa


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