Deuce Billet Dual Fuel Filter Assembly

lino

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Wake Forest, NC
First Question:
What does RLF mean? (RLF Adjustment)
Relief?

Second Question:
Are the pressure gauges displaying the pressure AFTER or BEFORE each filter? (It might make the top too cluttered if you tried to include that clarity in the arrows - or maybe not if you're clever ;)
First Question: yes, RLF ADJ stands for Relief Adjustment. Ideally it won't need any adjustment, but I'm not sure of that yet. I'll include instructions in either case.

Second Question: IN PRESS is the inlet pressure (pre filters), OUT PRESS is the outlet pressure (after both filters).

These are great questions because they are helping me make the label more clear. I'm going to try and add a few more lines to indicate where the pressure gauges read and how the relief is plumbed. The trick is to do that without getting too busy to be clear... I'll post another version soon.

Thankfully, from a machining perspective, what or how much I put on there makes almost no difference...

ciao
lino
 

archmark

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Woodway, TX
Correct me if I am wrong but that same configuration would work as a replacement for the fuel cartridge style water separator on my M923A2 behind the front wheel wouldn't it. ??. Excellent workmanship by the way sir
Check out Westfolk's site. He makes great adapters for everything and they're affordable...
 

peashooter

Well-known member
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Location
Hanover, minnesota
Here's another version, shows full function.
Hopefully it's clear.
View attachment 585836
i prefer this more detailed version, I like that there is no guessing as to how it works internally. Are you thinking of anodizing these and machining lettering after or selling them unfinished (bare aluminum)? I know the more requests like this that you get, the more expensive they become however.
 

lino

Member
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Location
Wake Forest, NC
i prefer this more detailed version, I like that there is no guessing as to how it works internally. Are you thinking of anodizing these and machining lettering after or selling them unfinished (bare aluminum)? I know the more requests like this that you get, the more expensive they become however.
Hey Aaron!

Up to this point, I was thinking of engraving when I first machine the part, then anodize after. So there wouldn't be much contrast. Just the .020" groove from the tool. I was going to "soft" anodize them, so I should be able to engrave after, without having the cracking that you get when engraving after hard anodize. But that adds another step, that's essentially free if I do it when I machine the top surface originally.

My thought was that many folks would paint this the color of their engine, so if I deliver with contrasting marks, they may get painted over anyway.

The plan was clear anodize (slightly darker grey than regular aluminum, and not shiny), with this image "grooved" into the surface.
Could black anodize also, but that costs more...
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,010
35
48
Location
Hanover, minnesota
Hey Aaron!

Up to this point, I was thinking of engraving when I first machine the part, then anodize after. So there wouldn't be much contrast. Just the .020" groove from the tool. I was going to "soft" anodize them, so I should be able to engrave after, without having the cracking that you get when engraving after hard anodize. But that adds another step, that's essentially free if I do it when I machine the top surface originally.

My thought was that many folks would paint this the color of their engine, so if I deliver with contrasting marks, they may get painted over anyway.

The plan was clear anodize (slightly darker grey than regular aluminum, and not shiny), with this image "grooved" into the surface.
Could black anodize also, but that costs more...
Yes I'd go with your original plan that makes sense. I had bought one of those paint crayons a while back that you use to fill in engraving (used it for the throttle and shut down pull handles on the dash), I'd probably fill in the engraving personally but everyone is different. This is one of those areas that everybody would do differently though, so clear anodize is probably the safest bet. Plus it makes a fantastic surface to paint on. Clear and black anodize cost the same around here ($65 lot charge), $75 for colors, and $85 for hard coat.
 

lino

Member
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Location
Wake Forest, NC
Ha! Sorry about the radio silence folks. Been busy around here. And the view ahead looks pretty busy too.

So the status on this:
I have the prototype running on my truck. I wanted to get some miles on it before I made the next version.

Last week I ordered the material I need to make several more of these kits.
After the current [paying] job in my little shop is done, these will be next. I'm hopeful to have some beta units to a couple folks for testing in the next month or so.

I'll post some pics when the next set comes off the machine.

ciao
lino
 

41cl8m5

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Littleton, CO
I'm in for this lino, top shelf work and design.
Just and idea to bring the initial cost down. Have a hardware parts list for all the add-on fittings and the gauges you recommend for use along with the filter numbers. That way the person buying the "plate and mount with the internal regulator" can get the gold plated fitting they always wanted instead of that plain old hum drum fitting you can get off of your recommend list of course. Just kidding, but do you see my point? Have a bare bones option and one fully loaded.
Personally I'd go all out and get just what you have, I like the idea of using the liquid filed gauges.
 
Last edited:

pitpawten

Member
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Location
Centreville, Maryland
I'm in for this lino, top shelf work and design.
Just and idea to bring the initial cost down. Have a hardware parts list for all the add-on fittings and the gauges you recommend for use along with the filter numbers. That way the person buying the "plate and mount with the internal regulator" can get the gold plated fitting they always wanted instead of that plain old hum drum fitting you can get off of your recommend list of course. Just kidding, but do you see my point? Personally I'd go all out add get just what you have, I like the idea of using the liquid filed gauges.
This actually is a great idea. One option (for us cheapos) being just the plate, another option being the full kit with gauges and filters etc.

Definitely interested in what the price point will be, I'm looking to purchase a spin-on option very soon.
 
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