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Deuce (Multifuel) just won't start

silverstate55

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I've got a LDT-465-1D motor. I've replaced all filters & fluids, then decided to replace all fuel lines since a couple of the nylon ones were cracked. I've drained my fuel tank, cleaned & flushed it, cleaned the in-tank lift pump & replaced the rubber fuel hose on it with a brand-new one, verified that it works quite well, flushed out all the stock fuel lines with solvent & compressed air.

I've refiltered the fuel, so it's good to go. I carefully disassembled the IP and replaced the 3 troublesome O-rings, then carefully reassembled everything. Everything seemed to function-check just fine. I made sure that the IP went back in on the engine just as it came out, and verified that all the timing marks lined up properly (engine timing marks set, both inspection plates on the IP removed & the timing marks were PERFECT, including the HH grooved tooth that was one tooth to the right as the TM spec'd).

I bled the fuel system at the secondaries, then cracked every injection line at the injectors to ensure fuel flow; plenty of fuel flow to the injectors. When I try to crank it over, the motor spins but it won't fire at all. There is a little bit of smoke vapor from the exhaust afterwards.

I then removed each & every injector, and disassembled each one. Each one of the back 3 injectors (4, 5, 6) were dry at the tip. I cleaned as much carbon & soot off that I could, and verified that the injector tip sprayed properly (put the straw from my carburetor cleaner can right down to it, and the proper 2-stream spray pattern comes out strongly). I am careful not to touch the parts I shouldn't with my fingers, and carefully re-assemble and reinstall on truck. I reinstall all return & injection lines, but still no fire.

I've had to recharge my batteries twice, I've run them down so much trying to start this stupid thing. I've got good strong fuel all the way up to the injectors, but no start. It won't even try to kick over.

I've got the fuel stop disengaged (pushed all the way in), and I've tried leaving the Accessory switch on for up to 30 seconds to ensure I'm getting plenty of fuel from the in-tank lift pump.

I've read all through these forums (where I've gotten some good ideas that I've already tried but with no success) and I've read through every TM I could download. The troubleshooting manuals say to simply replace the IP.

What am I missing? I feel so stupid right now, the truck was running just fine back in November when I parked it in my side yard. Now that I've rebuilt the dumb thing it refuses to start.

A couple of things I noticed are that when I turn on the Accessory switch, the fuel level at the bottom of the injector return line starts to rise, then falls and does this repeatedly; also, there is NO fuel coming from the injectors back into the return lines despite repeated cranking. Shouldn't some excess fuel be kicked back into the return lines?

Thanks in advance for any help, this is driving me absolutely crazy.
 

doghead

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Possibly your fuel stop is sticking or your HH is not timed correctly.

I'd pull the front valve cover and confirm TDC @#1 and your timing/alignment marks again.
 

dmetalmiki

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I agree with resqur Get someone (else) to squirt ether WHILE (your) CRANKING, do NOT squirt and ( THEN ) Crank!.
Get it running thus, and if this this fails after two attempts ((can you get)) A TOW at slow speed 2nd or 3rd HIGH. (NOT a "jerk" start (clutching in and out) Let the clutch out smoothly and have the engine turn consitantly, smoothly untill it runs.
If this fails (or succeeds) post your efforts and results ok. (as failure to run would appear to be in the I.P. Assembly.
 

renovate7

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I've heard you can also use WD40 instead of ether to start it. Less wear on the engine...Problems like this drive me crazy. Good Luck.
 

doghead

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And if the timing is 180 off, the ether may break your rings and ruin your engine. Ether does not fix incorrect timing.
 

DieselBob

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One easy check to do is verify that the plunger in the HH is moving when you crank the engine. Didn't see in your post were you checked that. 2cents
 

phil2968

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I put new o-rings on a HH the other day that ran fine. When I reassembled it I noticed the fuel control rod was sticking. I removed the head and had to spray and work the slide up and down to free it. It must have picked up some debris. It's worth checking. Make sure the button did not fall off upon installation. When I first worked on this truck the plunger went up and down but would not start, removed the head and the button had fell off. After I installed it without new o-rings the old ones leaked.
 
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Squirt-Truck

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IF properly timed, sounds like the fuel control lever is not properly engaged into the fuel plunger sleeve. Not an uncommon happening if the little "plunger sleeve pin" in out of place the pump will NOT make injection pressure.

Suggest pulling the fuel control lever and verifying.
 

silverstate55

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I AM A TOTAL DING-DONG.

Doghead called it; I had to step away for about an hour while I cleared my mind & tried to calm down. Then I went out & checked for TDC when all the alignment marks were lined up again.

IT WAS 180-DEGREES OFF. DOH!!!!! :shock: :oops: aua

So, once I confirmed TDC on cylinder #1, verifying that there actually was clearance on the valves & rocker arms, I then barred the crankshaft over until the grooved tooth on the HH was aligned with its marker....I took a silver Sharpie marker & marked a line on the harmonic damper where it lined up with the pointer on the engine block. While the HH was lined up for removal, I carefully disconnected the injection lines from the HH and carefully removed the HH from the IP. THEN, I barred the crankshaft over 180-degrees until it was lined up with the silver Sharpie mark, and reinstalled the HH and the injection lines.

Once these were all buttoned up, I lined up the TDC marks again, and the HH grooved tooth was one tooth to the right, while the alignment marks on the IP input shaft were perfectly aligned. I once again confirmed clearance on the #1 valves, which there was, and tightened everything up again.

It fired right up after about 5 seconds, and RUNS GREAT! It wouldn't even fire at all when it was 180-degrees out, but it fired right up once all the alignment issues were resolved.

At least it made me clean the injectors, which seem to be working perfectly. No smoke on startup, and it idles/accelerates/decelerates perfectly. WHEW!

Thanks for all the responses & help, I appreciate it! Sometimes you just have to walk away and clear your mind, then go back and fix the obvious (the only remaining solution: timing!).

So now tomorrow I can finally flush the cooling system & bleed the brakes, then off for a test drive through the neighborhood.
 

silverstate55

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One easy check to do is verify that the plunger in the HH is moving when you crank the engine. Didn't see in your post were you checked that. 2cents
Yes, it was all functioning correctly; when I dismantled it to put in the new O-rings, I made sure all these things were cleaned up & working correctly. I just didn't bother to mention it in my too-long post above. Thanks for the tip!
 

doghead

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Great news.

Hope this thread is referenced later, when the next guy does the same thing.

It happens. (that does not make you a ding dong either).




And for those who said start it with ether, just ask HDexpert how that worked for him, when his HH was 180 out.

Ether is a great starting aid, in a known perfectly good running engine. It is not a "fix".
 
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silverstate55

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Thanks DH, I left this up in hopes of serving as an aid for the other threads that ended with no resolution. It starts becoming obvious when everything is working perfectly up to the injectors, especially on a low-mileage great-condition motor (mine hasn't been run very much in the past 10-12 years).

I will admit, I did "cheat" and spray WD-40 in the intake (once the air cleaner was removed)....still didn't do anything. I don't like using ether for diesels, I've always been taught to use WD-40 to prevent over-revving & scoring pistons/liners. It worked wonderfully on a finicky Caterpillar D6C I was running in April 2011, the glow plug relay wasn't working and on chilly mornings it wouldn't start without a shot of WD-40...even then I had to let it idle for nearly 15 minutes to get it running reliably. After warming up, it ran perfectly.
 

doghead

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This debate/topic comes up every time someone mentions ether...

Even the cheapest Starting fluidsl have lubrication in them. They are perfectly safe to use, when all precautions are made and they are used properly.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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When you replace the small o ring on the shut off you need to leave the screws loose and the cover off. Then start the truck and slowly tighten them. If those are too tight the truck will either race way up or not start at all.
 

doghead

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Post # 1 says, he was doing PCSM.

Preventative maintenance!
 
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