Digger that is a totally awesome looking bobber!!! The first pic really shows the suspension detail nicely. So that's a Peterbuilt air leaf suspension? It must be good for 19,000 lbs. if you figure it came from the standard 38k tandem rear tractor setup on civy trucks. I'm going to have to look into this idea. I guess you got the parts from a big truck place that parts trucks and suspensions out? Thank you very much!
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Deuce road tractor conversion
- Thread starter RAYZER
- Start date
welldigger
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Thank you dip. The suspension is from a freightliner tandem and yes it is capable of 18,000 plus pounds. We used everything except the bags. We needed shorter ones. The panhard bar had to be shortened a bit also. The springs, mounts, shocks, etc. are right off the junker truck. Mark has the second tandem still. That helped us a lot having an assembled unit to look at.
Also, front pic.
Also, front pic.
Attachments
I figured you would need a panhard rod, but I couldn't see it in the picture. I guess you made a custom bracket for the differential mount. How did you locate shorter bags? Custom shock mounts? Did you use a valve to control the air? Your trucks attitude and stance are perfect. A great blend of reliability, comfort, and load carrying ability. Bravo!
welldigger
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Yes, we or rather Mark built a bracket over the chunk. The panhard bar is on the top. The shock mounts are o.e.m freightliner. As are the shocks. Tbe frieghtliner system needs even weight distribution for the chassis to sit level. Since the batteries and fuel tank are on the passenger side it always leaned that direction. So we used 2 leveling valves to get everything level. Haven't tested it offroad yet to see how that will affect articulation.
RAYZER
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Back to upgrades!
Got an electric wiper setup from pctrans and installed it in the tractor,I think this will be a worthwhile upgrade since I drive this truck all the time!
I also have the washer reservoir that attaches to the steering column.
Im now looking for the washer pump and squirters.
Got an electric wiper setup from pctrans and installed it in the tractor,I think this will be a worthwhile upgrade since I drive this truck all the time!
I also have the washer reservoir that attaches to the steering column.
Im now looking for the washer pump and squirters.
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Ray,
How long did it take you to do the install? I want to put mine on, but need to address the soft top-to-windshield frame repair. Looks good!
How long did it take you to do the install? I want to put mine on, but need to address the soft top-to-windshield frame repair. Looks good!
RAYZER
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Thanks Dave! The install is pretty straight foward and took a couple hrs, the top has to come off first,and then some hole drilling, thankfully my top comes off easily, sometimes they can be a big wrestling match!
welldigger
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A3 electric wipers are a huge improvement over air wipers. You should like them.
Hainebd
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The road are horrible here in NJ. Bag it if you want a good ride loaded and unloaded. Springs just aren't as nice. Stock tractors with springs bounce everywhere. And a single axle, rides like on blocks.
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Rayzer Your project looks AWESOME !!! I have an M931 and doing some upgrades to. Is it a good idea to make a thread like yours to show changes and upgrades?
RAYZER
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Thanks wrenchturner!
By all means, start a thread and post some pics!
By all means, start a thread and post some pics!
59apache
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An alternative to A3 wiper are the single wiper motors from Oshkosh or from OMIX. They are very easy to install. with Anco arms and blades they're great.
wiper motor: Omix-Ada OMX-1910104
wiper arm: ANCO 41-01 ANC-41-01
wiper blade ANCO 31-13 ANC-31-13
btt:
nice upgrade Ray!
wiper motor: Omix-Ada OMX-1910104
wiper arm: ANCO 41-01 ANC-41-01
wiper blade ANCO 31-13 ANC-31-13
btt:
nice upgrade Ray!
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jesusgatos
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Nice work. Found this thread while searching for info about deuce tractors. Planning on adding a 5th wheel plate to mine, but haven't decided whether or not want to bob it. Wondering if anyone can tell me how far forward of the bogey the 5th wheel plate is located on an M48. Pulling all the tractor parts off an M931A2 and looks like it's about 4.125" forward on that? Other thing I was wondering about it how much of the frame they left hanging off behind the 5th wheel plate. Where is the rear crossmember located?
RAYZER
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I will get that info for you today.
RAYZER
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Took a few pics today along with a couple of measurements to answer your questions.
The frame was cut off 13.25" from back end, the 2nd cross member was completely removed and pintel cross member added back in (approximate 24" from pintel cross member face to center of rear axel, finished).
The top frame rivets for the cross member that runs over the center of bogey suspension will determine the exact placement of the fifth wheel plate due to having to drill one of the mounting holes between two of the rivets, my plate is mounted just foward of center of tandems at the 1st available location.
RAYZER
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I really like the tool box cover Ray!
jesusgatos
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Thanks a bunch! That's very helpful I'm using a tractor-plate off an M931A2 and think I'll duplicate the angle-iron mounts those trucks have so I can avoid having to drill holes in the top of of the frame, and that will also allow me to space the tractor-plate up above the rivets. Thanks again, really appreciate all the info and those additional pics.
RAYZER
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You're welcome Sir.
When planning my conversation I conntiplated using the original 5th wheel plate side angles to simplify the install.
However, (on the deuce)the bogey suspension side plates that are riveted to the truck frame sides are in the way.
Both the M48 and M275 (2.5 ton) tractors have the 5th wheel plates bolted through the top of the frame rails.
When planning my conversation I conntiplated using the original 5th wheel plate side angles to simplify the install.
However, (on the deuce)the bogey suspension side plates that are riveted to the truck frame sides are in the way.
Both the M48 and M275 (2.5 ton) tractors have the 5th wheel plates bolted through the top of the frame rails.
jesusgatos
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Yeah, noticed that. Think what I'm going to do about that is notch the angle-iron bracket to clear the bogey, and then weld a plate back into it with the right amount of offset to clear the bogey-plate. Will have to either drill holes to clear the bogey rivets, or drill out the rivets and replace them with bolts. Have to drill holes to secure the brackets anyway, so that might be the way to go. Bought a mag-drill yesterday, which should make all this work a lot easier.