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HUGE +1
like $12.. supposed to be 1 oz per gallon, roughly... I ran out, and I can tell the difference between the 2, with and without.... night and day...
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Diesel additives
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like $12.. supposed to be 1 oz per gallon, roughly... I ran out, and I can tell the difference between the 2, with and without.... night and day...
MarcusOReallyus
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Well, I'm pretty new to diesels, so I don't claim to know anything. Just did some searching, and found some interesting discussion here. Those folks seem to think you don't need anything to add lubrication.
Another Ahab
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I'm recalling an earlier thread that came to the same conclusion:
- one post included a note (by someone who seemed in-the-know) that refiners essentially engineer everything you need (already) into the diesel mix.
All the additives marketed are essentially snake oils to snag a naive/ less-than-informed public. The take-away was that the additives are all kind of like "vitamin water", or even "flu shots":
- Nobody really needs them, but if you can convince a whole nation to buy them (man, woman, and child), think of the cash to be pocketed.
So you don't need to buy the products, but maybe you should buy the stock of the companies that sell them.
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I would normally agree.. BUT...
These items have been shown to reduce wear and increase lubricity, or, in some cases, INCREASE wear.
TWC3 is an oil that is NOT marketed as a diesel additive, but it works surprisingly well as such.
Everything is made to a certain specification, that is to say, acceptable losses.
That does not mean that a product or process can't be improved, just that they've set a point at which the costs outweigh the gains.
Using TWC3 in my rig has quieted it down a lot, cold starts are less noisy, and has been proven in the lab to increase lubricity.
These items have been shown to reduce wear and increase lubricity, or, in some cases, INCREASE wear.
TWC3 is an oil that is NOT marketed as a diesel additive, but it works surprisingly well as such.
Everything is made to a certain specification, that is to say, acceptable losses.
That does not mean that a product or process can't be improved, just that they've set a point at which the costs outweigh the gains.
Using TWC3 in my rig has quieted it down a lot, cold starts are less noisy, and has been proven in the lab to increase lubricity.
MarcusOReallyus
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This is a huge point that that is often overlooked in these kinds of discussions. You see it often in discussions about oil additives, trans additives, vitamins, etc.
"Adequate" does NOT equal "best possible", and "good enough" doesn't mean there's no way get "better".
And "adequate for normal use" doesn't equal "adequate for severe use", either.
Like I said, I'm a newb so I do not have a strong opinion one way or another, I'm just agreeing with a basic principle here.
There are different types of fuel additives and depending on what you are trying to achieve will depend on what you use. I use Opti-Lube XPD, Opti-Lube Cetane Boost and the Opt-lube Fortifier. Opti-Lube XPD was ranked #1 in scientific testing for lubrication. It blew Lucas and Diesel Kleen out of the water with results and I noticed a big difference in my M35A2 and 7.3 Diesel. It lubricates and cleans the injectors as well as adds a little cetane boost. I have seen at least a 1 mpg increase using just this product, which is incredible for a truck that only gets approx 8mpg. It's fantastic. The Opti-Lube Cetane Boost does exactly that, it boosts the Cetane from 5-8 points, making the diesel fuel burn more efficient and produce more horsepower as well as help on starting the motor. I don't know how much power it adds to the M35A2 but it adds a little bit and it seems to help. The last product is the Opt-Lube Oil Fortifier you add in with the oil. When you change the oil add 1 quart of this oil fortifier and 21 quarts of engine oil. I did this and noticed an immediate change in how the engine ran. The multifuel ran more quiet at first. Then I calculated the fuel economy and gained about another 1 mpg difference. With the added fuel milage I noticed more power and my truck ran cooler temperatures. At full throttle, my temps dropped on average from 20-30 degrees on a full load and empty the notice was even larger. Opti-lube makes fantastic products and after seeing the results, I won't go elsewhere. I was skeptic at first but after reading testimonials and then seeing the results, It sold me. It blows away the Diesel Kleen because I use to use that, as well as 16 other products on the market. Go to their webiste at www.opti-lube.com
olbucksnort
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I've been doin the wally world TWC3 (aka outboard motor oil) also . My multifule loves it.
It's low cost easy to find on the shelf and it works good.
It's low cost easy to find on the shelf and it works good.
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I've been running Diesels for 35+ years. All the way from the lowly 4.108 Perkins to the 20 cylinder behemoths with twin turbos and or superchargers.
The companies I have worked for have tried just about all of the fuel additives and I can honestly say that none worked, except for the TCW3. We never did gain any MPGs.
We also tried adding additives to the oil with mixed results, several engines did not like them and we wound up in-framing them before their time. Others engines, using additives, wound up needing in-frames at the same time the manufacturer dictated.
They were also tried with regular Dino and Synthetic, every time we went back to Dino as changing oil at irregular intervals wound up being very costly. Changing a power pack, fuel contamination, water contamination.
The ONLY thing that increased time between oil changes were the addition of small centrifuges, or spinners, to the engines. We actually went 25,000 hours (on Dino - Rotella T) before oil analysis said that the manufacturers base additives were depleted. We then dumped 1/2 the oil and topped the engine off. She ran for another 25,000 hours and was overhauled.
Using regular dino oil is cost effective as the use we give the MVs does not justify the cost of synthetic.
Using fuel additives, other than the TCW3, has not proven (to me) to be cost effective or needed. Only for lubrication of the IP and injectors.
I know this will probably stir up a hornets nest, but such is life...
My
The companies I have worked for have tried just about all of the fuel additives and I can honestly say that none worked, except for the TCW3. We never did gain any MPGs.
We also tried adding additives to the oil with mixed results, several engines did not like them and we wound up in-framing them before their time. Others engines, using additives, wound up needing in-frames at the same time the manufacturer dictated.
They were also tried with regular Dino and Synthetic, every time we went back to Dino as changing oil at irregular intervals wound up being very costly. Changing a power pack, fuel contamination, water contamination.
The ONLY thing that increased time between oil changes were the addition of small centrifuges, or spinners, to the engines. We actually went 25,000 hours (on Dino - Rotella T) before oil analysis said that the manufacturers base additives were depleted. We then dumped 1/2 the oil and topped the engine off. She ran for another 25,000 hours and was overhauled.
Using regular dino oil is cost effective as the use we give the MVs does not justify the cost of synthetic.
Using fuel additives, other than the TCW3, has not proven (to me) to be cost effective or needed. Only for lubrication of the IP and injectors.
I know this will probably stir up a hornets nest, but such is life...
My
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boudreauxs ride
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What ratio do you use with twc3 oil to fuel
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Hey boudreaux, you like relatively new here:
- Welcome, for the record.
- Welcome, for the record.
I myself prefer the premium fuels from Cenex Harvest States. For off-road use it is called Ruby Fieldmaster and highway use is Roadmaster. Instead of being straight #2 fuel with additives, their brand of premium fuel is what they call a D-grade. Comparison to #1 and #2, it had a higher cetane rating than #2 but less than #1. Higher BTU than both. Growmark Farm Service, Countrymark, Farmland, Universal, and Agway were the primary players in this market. They also had their custom additive blends that were sold as better than #2 with additive. I do know the additives at the terminal were potent, seems like 3 gallons treated a tanker load. I tend to blend wvo with the premium fuel and have good results.
boudreauxs ride
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Thanks been reading forums
for some time good info
for some time good info
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Welcome to SS Boudreaux! There is no known cure for the green addiction other than, well, MORE green!!
1 quart at fill up for M-1008, 16+/- gals.. Some have said 1 ounce to the gallon but is is easier for me to just throw a quart in at fill up.
Bought 4 quarts and one gallon jug and have been filling the quarts up as I go.
DriverSideImpact1008
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I agree, I haven't seen anyone who has gotten better mpg's, cooler EGT's, or more miles out of the engine by using diesel fuel additives.Using fuel additives, other than the TCW3, has not proven (to me) to be cost effective or needed. Only for lubrication of the IP and injectors.
I know this will probably stir up a hornets nest, but such is life...
My
The only real reason to add anything to the fuel, except to provide a little extra lubrication, is need-based. Like for winter treatment, if you live in a cold climate. Or an anti-fungal additive if the truck will be sitting for longer periods of time.
forest522
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So to summarize what may be a common theme here...and by the way, this is a great discussion...
If you want to increase the longevity of your IP and possibly some other pumps in the engine, add some TC-W3. An added bonus is quieter engine performance, particularly cold start ups.
If you main goal is to increase your mpg...nothing discussed has been absolutely proven to do so...other than a lighter foot - ie, driving style!
Please correct if I am missing something. Just want to summarize after reading this and many, many other threads.
Time for another cold one!
If you want to increase the longevity of your IP and possibly some other pumps in the engine, add some TC-W3. An added bonus is quieter engine performance, particularly cold start ups.
If you main goal is to increase your mpg...nothing discussed has been absolutely proven to do so...other than a lighter foot - ie, driving style!
Please correct if I am missing something. Just want to summarize after reading this and many, many other threads.
Time for another cold one!
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Uh, Yup!
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If it's filtered properly, yes.
I use a filtration system comprised of descending filters, from 30 micron to 1 micron, and run it through twice, before I dump it into my tank.
I run 50% WMO, as an additive, hehehe.... cuts my diesel fuel consumption in half and doubled my MPG on D2!
Now, before this, I dumped about 5 quarts of unfiltered oil in my tank.. ran great.. for about 5 miles.. when I got on the highway.. had ZERO power.... anything above 1k rpm and the engine would be struggling... limped home, pulled the filter, and it was clogged up tight...so.. FILTER OIL BEFORE YOU PUT IT IN YOUR TANK!
Also, with all the detergents in motor oil, it WILL clean out sludge/junk/crap from your lines/tank/etc. so you WILL be changing your fuel filter more frequently for the first few tanks.... depending on how much you use.
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Vintage iron
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I am a diesel mechanic and my company specializes on restoring and maintaining former military vehicles. I good customer of mine turned my on to Opti-Lube XPD and then I read the thread "adding lubicity to diesel" here on SS. I was impressed and bought a gallon. WoW! What a differance it makes, the Cummins motors love it! They run quieter, smoother and stronger. I recommend it to all of my customers, but I will certainly try the Wally World two stroke oil to be fair about it. Welcome to the disease and happy motoring.